Re: {Chrysler 300} Alternator wiring
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Alternator wiring



if you return to stock 1 wire  alternator say from a 61 -62 mopar with its  mechanical stock   small black box  regulator , wires are ok . But need to really understand how to rewire it at old VR  location . Not trivial.  You can change a later 2 wire field (very  common)   to one wire by grounding one brush ( either one) .I use 78 dodge 318 pickup truck as  bogey to get alternators , but 61 mopar may be easier mechanical fit . Do not know .

But: 
Not a good idea to change anything  
But to do as oem did , you need 61 G ram exhaust manifold to mount it . Big big $ and a lot of needless work Can cobble up to old F gen   mount probably .. but why?  
There is absolutely nothing wrong  with a stock generator . I have told  guys on here , all that ever goes  wrong in them is brushes stick in the  holders from sitting( no output in spring ,takes  two
minutes to free them )  or the brushes wear  out in 80 k miles, 15$ part 30 minute job  ( sometimes end bearings, they are off the shelf  items) 
Rebuilding / rewinding almost never needed , unless someone made a  big
error ( see later) . VR protects  gen against all overload. Period  . So cannot “ burn  out”
 Rebuild is big  $ and cannot be as  good as precision factory wound . Sometimes you see NOS 12 v mopar armatures on E bay . 

Just   get another 35 A gen off any 12 v mopar ,  
and never  ever “adjust VR “ They are perfect  from factory you WILL make it all worse ( new problems)  if you open the cover . It is good or bad, not out of adjustment . 
The way gens get obviously burned out is people open the VR cover , diddle  around    press down on the relays , 
One is the reverse cut - out ,it  disconnects gen from battery at low speed or car off . If you press it down while car is  stopped it locks itself in connecting gen armature direct to battery , battery then tries to drive gen as a 1/2 hp motor ( but it cannot turn) draws 50 A + till the 
battery dies . This with key off  !

The 35 A armature burns up with 50 A + in it smoke comes out .  wrecks battery can hurt wires too . If someone says they can adjust VR run out of shop, find someone  smarter .
Burned armature means someone did this . Then Closed hood 

If you do upgrade wires you cannot stop at ammeter (!!) same current goes in the ammeter  to battery wire  too . But no need to do that 
Very tight in there , at instrument cluster  really asking for  trouble  to mess with a perfectly functional
stock  harness. Big wires do not want to fit . 
Get a generator put new brushes in if used , done . They Worked in every mopar made from 1930  to 1961 , problem free , all through WW 2 too Including AC cars . 
Pulleys , clocking on the mounts etc can be an issue , solvable . Obviously easier to get one from a 60
anything … nothing special electrically , 300 vs Plymouth / Dodge  
Some guys on here have used ones..  
AC is larger 40-45 A , VR too, they command big $ 
    


 
  

On May 24, 2025, at 10:37 AM, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:



Michael-

I believe the club website has a section on how to wire an alternator to an F with a diagram. If using a standard alternator the existing wiring is fine. However the splices necessary must be properly done for a reliable result. If using a high output alternator such as the aftermarket Powermasters that look like originals but can deliver over 100 amps be aware that the wiring and fusing in the original wiring did not contemplate that kind of short circuit current. 

 

ps. The AMA specs for the 300 F call for the alternator as available - we know it was standard on the Specials, but as such it is not inappropriate on any F and as we know, the alternator as a machine is far superior to the DC generator. 

 

Danny Plotkin

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Alexander" <malexander299@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2025 10:04am
To: "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Alternator wiring

Hello folks. I just had an alternator put in the 300F. I had to switch out the dead generator which I’m sending off to Gener-mayor at some point. Car died.  Long sad Mother’s Day story - had it towed to the shop. My mechanic told me that the wiring from the alternator that used to be red is black, oldd (obviously) and heating up. He advised the all the wiring should be upgraded from the alternator through the fire wall to the amp gauge, Who I got the generator installed from I’m not involving. Anyone have any experience or advice with this situation?

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