Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Front disc brakes 1963

As I've said, I have a disk brake conversion on my F, came that way. I used ECI's kit (ECI is 10 minutes from my home) and never got it to work right. Consulted with AAJ brakes and ended up with a 70 Imperial master shaved down .700 to fit under the booster. Lid leaks, pedal travel too high, and no confidence in the 11" rotors. I'm waiting for my shop to fit me in to put the stock brakes on. I have original drums we did not cut, just smoothed out and a set of cylinders and shoes from Craig Stanley. Berbaum sold me a master cylinder and I still have the brass connecting block.

The disk brakes on my F have thwarted by enjoyment of the car, I think I used it twice this season. Think twice before you go to a disk brake conversion, unless your drums are gone and you have no other option.

-----Original Message-----
From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 1, 2025 10:45am
To: "James Douglas" <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Paul" <amidcenturymopar@xxxxxxxxx>, "Club International Chrysler" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Front disc brakes 1963

hi james , thanks for this

radial runout does not matter on discs the pads make a perfect circle on the rotor faces so that works fine even with centering inaccuracies

You cannot just clamp an axle in a lathe as the part under the clamp is unmachined raw forging , maybe combo of luck and does not matter .— as runout radially on disc brake rotor does not impact concentricity of rub circle . It makes its own

But on drums even a few thou radially gives you vibrating pedal

Agree if going rear discs , whole thing is academic , and that is a very good point , maybe because of all the hassle I describe replacing drums on taper hubs , future 300 repairs mean we go rear discs as Paul is working on , as new drums on tapers are a fiasco , unless the tools and studs show up

Also , on small discs in front with 14 or even 15 wheels , the heat storage ability of the spinning piece sets the long term stopping on mountain down grades , and that relates directly to mass of disc or drum , nothing else . I would throw out there that a 12” drum is heavier than a dodge dart disc and will outperform it on heat storage

For first stop , the stock 12” drums will lock the wheels . I am not sure that is true of small discs unless both feet on pedal in a heavy car . I mean radius of grab is only a few inches , on a dart disc . you need a big disc like on hellcat or dodge truck / Grand cherokee etc etc to really pull you down in a big car . That says 16-17 wheels , allows better tires too

Maybe one case is restoration to 1960 , one is really make it right

On Jul 31, 2025, at 11:22 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Paul,

John the old owner of ECI did custom work for me 20 plus years ago. We put discs on the front of my large wheelbase – large chassis Desoto.

He also sold me his kit for the front of my ’49 Convertible.

Nobody likes doing rear conversions. Why, the tapered axles.

The ONLY way to make it work, and I did it when I custom made the rear disc conversion on the 49 Convertible was to take the axles and the hubs and create a matched set. I had to put them in a lathe and then face and index the hub. Then the disc bolted to it would run true. You also need to make sure the key is kept with the axle and hub. If one ever needed a new axle then the entire process would have to be repeated. Also, once the hub is installed and the torque set, you must measure how deep onto the taper the hub goes and record it. The mounting plates for caliper also must have provision for shims to get it correct.

James.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2025 11:53 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Re: Front disc brakes 1963

I have a 300F that I purchased in February. The previous owner had installed a front disc brake conversion kit that was built by Engineered Components Inc. The system works well, and the discs and calipers clear the stock 14" wheels that came on my 300F. The conversion kit is sold by Andy Bernbaum, but it is advertised as fitting 1957 - 1961 Chryslers. The maker (ECI) has many kits available and trades under the name of Hot Rod Brakes. The website is https://ecihotrodbrakes.com .

Mark Reid is the owner, and I am presently collaborating with him to develop a rear Disc Conversion Kit for the early Chrysler 8-3/4" rear ends that use the tapered roller bearings and cannot use the "Green Bearing" conversion that the rear disc conversion kits for later versions of the axles require. The "Total Contact" service brake system was used with the early version axle, and when Chrysler redesigned these brakes for the 1965 model year, they went to the later axle which is the more common version of the 8-3/4" rear. This is the axle that was used throughout the muscle car era on B, C and E bodies. The early axle used tapered axle shaft ends, which had wheel hubs that were also tapered and press fit on to the axle ends, using a 5/16" square keyway and a castellated nut to hold the hub on. The later version of the axle had the wheel hub permanently attached to the axle shaft. The axle shafts are two different diameters, which is why you can't execute a "Green Bearing" conversion on the earlier axles.

Hope this is helpful. If anyone out there is interested in the rear disc conversion, I'll keep you posted.

On Thursday, July 31, 2025 at 1:25:41 PM UTC-4 firemc1958 wrote:

Forgot,I already have changed to 15” wheels.
Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 31, 2025, at 12:24 PM, Richard McFarland <firem...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> I have a 63 300,383 auto. Does anyone know if a kit exists for installing font disc brakes? Booster,proportioner the whole bit? I see kits for different mopars of that era everywhere but not sure what will work. Not looking for original just want what will work. I drive the car a lot on trips,highways everywhere. Planning on doing Route 66 and just want it safe.
> Thanks to all
> Sent from my iPad

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