Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Front disc brakes 1963

[Paul <amidcenturymopar@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi James,  Thank you very much for weighing in on this project.  I have prepped the hubs and measured the runout with a dial indicator, and they both run pretty true when spun on the axles.   I have also created bearing retainers that bolt on to the axle flange and incorporate stock outer bearing seals.  the retainers also allow me to use the stock style shims to keep the axle end play between .003 and .008, as the shop manual directs.  That should limit the ability of the axle shaft to shift any appreciable amount.  There may be a bit of wear on the disc from it shifting in and out, but I'm hoping it is negligible.  I was able to get the shims from DCM along with a rear outer seal holder for 34-35 Mopar cars and several years of Dodge trucks that matches the flange bolt pattern exactly, and with the seal removed makes a perfect dust cap that the tapered side of the hub fits perfectly into with a minimum amount of clearance.  It looks like it was designed for this purpose.  Gives a very finished appearance and protects the outer seal from contamination.  In my research, I have found two examples of brave souls that have gone before me in the tapered axle disc brake conversion journey, one from Forward Look and one from the 300 website.  Here are the links -  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=65789   https://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/Wilwood%20Brake%20Installations.pdf

Thank you once again for joining this conversation.  Your input is greatly appreciated.

Paul

On Thursday, July 31, 2025 at 11:22:30 PM UTC-4 James Douglas wrote:

Paul,

 

John the old owner of ECI did custom work for me 20 plus years ago. We put discs on the front of my large wheelbase – large chassis Desoto.

 

He also sold me his kit for the front of my ’49 Convertible.

 

Nobody likes doing rear conversions.  Why, the tapered axles.

 

The ONLY way to make it work, and I did it when I custom made the rear disc conversion on the 49 Convertible was to take the axles and the hubs and create a matched set. I had to put them in a lathe and then face and index the hub.  Then the disc bolted to it would run true. You also need to make sure the key is kept with the axle and hub. If one ever needed a new axle then the entire process would have to be repeated.  Also, once the hub is installed and the torque set, you must measure how deep onto the taper the hub goes and record it.  The mounting plates for caliper also must have provision for shims to get it correct.

 

James.

 

 

 

From: chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2025 11:53 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Re: Front disc brakes 1963

 

I have a 300F that I purchased in February.  The previous owner had installed a front disc brake conversion kit that was built by Engineered Components Inc.  The system works well, and the discs and calipers clear the stock 14" wheels that came on my 300F.  The conversion kit is sold by Andy Bernbaum, but it is advertised as fitting 1957 - 1961 Chryslers.  The maker (ECI) has many kits available and trades under the name of Hot Rod Brakes.  The website is https://ecihotrodbrakes.com .  

 

Mark Reid is the owner, and I am presently collaborating with him to develop a rear Disc Conversion Kit for the early Chrysler 8-3/4" rear ends that use the tapered roller bearings and cannot use the "Green Bearing" conversion that the rear disc conversion kits for later versions of the axles require.  The "Total Contact" service brake system was used with the early version axle, and when Chrysler redesigned these brakes for the 1965 model year, they went to the later axle which is the more common version of the 8-3/4" rear.  This is the axle that was used throughout the muscle car era on B, C and E bodies.  The early axle used tapered axle shaft ends, which had wheel hubs that were also tapered and press fit on to the axle ends, using a 5/16" square keyway and a castellated nut to hold the hub on.  The later version of the axle had the wheel hub permanently attached to the axle shaft.  The axle shafts are two different diameters, which is why you can't execute a "Green Bearing" conversion on the earlier axles.

 

Hope this is helpful.  If anyone out there is interested in the rear disc conversion, I'll keep you posted.

On Thursday, July 31, 2025 at 1:25:41 PM UTC-4 firemc1958 wrote:

Forgot,I already have changed to 15” wheels.
Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 31, 2025, at 12:24 PM, Richard McFarland <firem...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> I have a 63 300,383 auto. Does anyone know if a kit exists for installing font disc brakes? Booster,proportioner the whole bit? I see kits for different mopars of that era everywhere but not sure what will work. Not looking for original just want what will work. I drive the car a lot on trips,highways everywhere. Planning on doing Route 66 and just want it safe.
> Thanks to all
> Sent from my iPad

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