hi ,on this , generally you don't have electrical problem here , it is mechanical also generally there are various designs of wire ends — the cheaper ones have a U shaped clip over the wire end with a a spike into center wire ( hate those ) So , the U is crimped onto wire but that means OD varies after with crimp aggression, may be loose in dist socket , or too tight to push in They often have a circumferential ridge shape or bulge at tip of U , a lame attempt to get some spring fit action against the ID of the socket so it stays in , you can bend top / tip out a bit so it is retained better , but try not to open U very much , as if overdone , when you pull to get it out , wire can pull right out if U leaving the clip in the hole . Moderation / common sense is key , do not worry about contact ( very low current) just get it tight enough it stays in . it does not need to be “ tight” Second type , much better , taylor wire sells bag of them on Amazon. Has a barrel shape , like two barrels split up the side , joined by a strip , brass . upper barrel is a really solid 360 crimp often with sideways spikes into wire ,— lower barrel is spring action due to slot really snaps in , you can open or close to fit just right —- not trying to both things with one size crimp dimension On those barrels I often stick a # 22 bare solid wire or a reformed cut small paper clip wire into center of wire ( the inner part of clip is almost perfect ) before you do upper crimp and position clip under that upper crimp , opposite the slot . That helps your ohm test accuracy. Cut end flush with top of barrel , without this, sometimes end is a poor connection ( ohmmeter) but still works. Actually in practice either design can work fine , one is just a better design from get go . If attempting any real work ( you don’t need to change , on yours, Gary, just fix the fit) ; no weird stuff is going on . Poor QC You MUST buy the crimp tool ( Taylor again) if you attack all this— it is cheap . Impossible to do right with regular crimper , or plier , end result of that is a flattened oval then wont go in hole,— if you try to reshape to fix that = wire is loose . Been there 60 years ago , hemi 392 ( beating 409’s)!) the ends gotta be right ( round) to fit into long hemi insulator.( I had found porcelain ones! from 50? great stuff back then) I glue them into insulator now on hemi ( WS cement ) nothing worse than insulator pulls off leaving the clip on the plug .You pull on wire , off it comes leaving plug clip down in hole . Cant put socket on plug with a wire on it . (= invention : a plug socket with slot up the side?)! Remove any steel helper springs on plug ends not needed( Taylor, cause trouble) -/ they really lock onto plug = wire pulls right out of plug wire end before it releases off plug ( = a nice wasted day on a hemi). Last ,very relevant to dist ends ,is story of poor running I had on a 440 challenger , 1970 . Had a skip the day I picked it up new, (!) back to dealer 3x, no improvement , dealer mechanic a moron did not help , got into it with him over this ( next time bring your brain) .He told me they changed plugs , I pointed out they still had orange paint on them Then “ I must have put the old ones back in by mistake ” with straight earnest face . Defines stealership . It Came and went ; one rainy night in dark really bad running on 6? cyl , stalling etc opened hood in dark ,on side of road . Thought plug wire fell off Sparks were jumping out from UNDER the rubber cap on coil tower to the two 12 v nuts(!!! ) YOW Hard to believe my eyes , mini lightning strikes , but this is real . Wiped / cleaned tower , pushed rubber on hard ran perfect At home I seated it all the way in ,with tiny screw driver to push on brass ( was not in all the way ) and gooped up tower and rubber cup with silicone grease , never again !! Happens on B blocks . Any coil I imagine Big heads up ! clean those towers of oily residue, seat end grease the cap against humidity J On Sep 13, 2025, at 2:16 AM, Gary Gettleman <gary.gettleman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/890022F2-2DBD-4F07-BE57-5F8EBB6EC16B%40gradyresearch.com. |
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