Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} Correct Alternator for Chrysler 300K
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Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} Correct Alternator for Chrysler 300K



Agreed, typically only the brushes or bearings and maybe a diode goes bad.  A good local auto electric shop staffed with old farts who actually know something about old Chrysler single field round back alternators is the way to go.  They will not normally replace the stator and rotor which is what determines the output in amps.  The problem is most 64 Chryslers by now no longer have their original factory alternator.  Parts store rebuilds from the 80s/90s etc. usually output 60 or 65 amps or more.  Even that can be a bit risky for old wiring and the bulkhead connectors.  The front and back cases are never matched either of course, reflecting whatever parts were on the shelf at the time of rebuild, and usually are beat up or numbers buffed off.  So, if you have the original factory alternator or can find one, please keep it as it will have correct output and a matched case, and have it rebuilt.  

The Powermaster may be great for interim use but 90 amps is way too much for old wiring on a sustained basis, unless the wiring has been upgraded.  It's really just too much current and that all goes through the bulkhead and ammeter in a stock setup. 

BTW and FYI only, if your car has been updated/upgraded with 70's/80s style Mopar electronic voltage regulator and orange box electronic ignition, using a two field "square back" alternator (circa 1972 and up), you can have an old single field round back alternator modified to isolated field (two field) for use with the modern components.  The whole setup is actually better, no bouncing ammeter from mechanical regulator etc.,  albeit not stock.   That's what I did with with G, which had been updated by a PO, in order to have the correct appearance "wide fin" alternator used for 1961.  The voltage regulator and orange box are hidden low by the core support, and so not readily visible, but the alternator is very visible in the engine bay.  And the stock alternator has stock output, unlike the chrome plated Powermaster that was on the car.  

Conversely, if all you have available at the moment is a square back two field alternator, you can still use it in your stock setup simply by grounding one of the two field terminals to the alternator case  

Carl B.  


------ Original Message ------
From "dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To "cmenrad" <cmenrad@xxxxxxx>
Cc "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date 10/24/2025 2:25:29 PM
Subject RE: {Chrysler 300} Correct Alternator for Chrysler 300K

Any auto electric shop in most mid sized cities can install new brushes and bearings in your alternator which is all most of them ever need. If originality, correctness and being kosher are important, That would be my first choice.

 

Alternatively you can go on-line or to any flaps (full service auto parts store) and get a "Power Master" alternator, a reasonable facsimile of the original with I think a 90 AMP output. That will solve the problem today. If you do that remember a 90 AMP alternator will be happy to deliver all 90, so any unfused circuits should have fuses added, subject of course to input from John Grady. 

 

Danny Plotkin



-----Original Message-----
From: "'cmenrad' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2025 2:51pm
To: "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Correct Alternator for Chrysler 300K

Hello, does anyone know the  part number and the amp output that is correct for a 1964 300K with A/C.   Is it possible to get a rebuilt unit for this car that does not come from China.  Unfortunately Ive had these units go bad after short periods of time.   Would love one rebuilt in the US.

Thanks
Chris
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