[Chrysler300] Digest Number 856
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 856
- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 6 Jan 2004 13:47:43 -0000
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Windshield & Rear window
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. apology
From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. unsubscribe
From: bwerner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
4. Suspension Clean Up
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Suspension Clean Up
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Suspension Clean Up
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. auto headlight dimmer
From: Dan Dunkleberg <Signboy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Suspension Clean Up
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Suspension Clean Up
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Fwd: Suspension Clean Up
From: DC300G@xxxxxxx
11. Panelescent Lighting
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Unpainted cast iron suspension parts
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Chrysler 300 News of the ME 4-12
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Chrysler 300 News of the ME 4-12
From: Rich Barber <barber@xxxxxxxxx>
15.
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. 1960 Radios
From: "gary_r_23" <garyandkathie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: apology
From: lettercars@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:35:13 -0800
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Windshield & Rear window
I have a used, after market, windshield and rear window from a G. The club
1990 glass interchange data says that the windshield will fit a F,G.H.J & K.
and that the rear window ( back glass ) will fit a F,G & H. I am offering
these for sale at $175 each or both for $300. I will not ship due to ease of
breakage. Both are tinted but not the correct shading color. Both have minor
dings but no cracks or stars. I live in the Sacramento area. Day phone:
209-983-2341, evening: 916-987-6783, or reply to this E-Mail.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:22:50 -0800 (PST)
From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: apology
Gil, It has been brought to my attention by one of
our long standing members and after re-reading my post
to your answer about the mirror brace thing, My post
might be construed as somewhat sarcastic. Please let
me assure you that is not the case or my intent. I
highly respect your opinion and your knowledge. Thats
why I requested it. We all probably have Gary
thoroughly confused at this point as to what to do
about right side mirrors. That's why I implied, I
think, that it's your ride,the title is in your name,
do what you want to do! I extend this apology to any
others who might feel i've over stepped good judgment.
Regards, Jerry
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 17:34:18 -0500
From: bwerner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: unsubscribe
Unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 14:39:07 -0800
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Suspension Clean Up
Hi All,
I am about to start media blasting the suspension parts on my H and have a question. Once the parts are cleaned what is used to protect them from rust?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 17:43:50 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Suspension Clean Up
Hi Chuck,
A good question.
If the 300H is the same as 300G, then the upper control arms should be
painted black, as well as the suframe, and brake backing plates. The
torsion bars should also be black, they were dipped in a heavy epoxy-type
thick paint.
Everything else (spindles; lower control arms; steering arms, strut bars,
tie rods and all steering linkages) should be left "au naturel" - bare
metal.
I have used Eastwood's "Nyalic" in the past with less than great result.
Even though the parts were carefully bead-blasted to within an inch of their
lives, and carefully covered in two or three coats of the Nyalic stuff, they
did start to rust after a short time. I did talk to my local powdercoating
shop, and alas, clear powdercoating is not available.
Not sure what I'll do with the next project. Maybe buy a few cans of clear
Rust-Oleum and try that instead. Anyone out there have any comments or
suggestions?
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck McGill" <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 5:39 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Suspension Clean Up
> Hi All,
>
> I am about to start media blasting the suspension parts on my H and have
a question. Once the parts are cleaned what is used to protect them from
rust?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 15:01:13 -0800
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Suspension Clean Up
Dissassemble the car parts and clean them off to see if they were originally
painted and what color. You will probably find that most of the parts were
dipped in black laquer and thinner and have a semi gloss look. (Some of the
original paint splotches may still be found in the event you are wanting to
reproduce those)
For the painted parts powder coat or paint. If you paint, use a good primer
first and clean out any machined surfaces with either method (paint or
powder coat). Anything that was originally left bare steel like the lower
balljoints and control arms can be painted to appear like bare steel or left
as they were originally with nothing to protect them from corrosion but
dirt, grease, and road grime. Clear coating can work but looks bad if it
chips and really doesn't look right at all.
Best not to mess with the torsion bars at all unless the finish is damaged.
I'm sure others will have much more to add.
Good Luck.
Ryan Hill (Vancouver)
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 00:31:35 -0800
From: Dan Dunkleberg <Signboy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: auto headlight dimmer
Hi all,
Does anyone know up to what year Chrysler offered the auto headlight
dimmer as an option?
This is the one that mounts on top of the dash above the steering wheel.
I also would like to know how the base attaches to the 60-61 dash pad.
The 60 service manual doesn't say.
Thanks in advance,
Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 15:34:51 -0800
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Suspension Clean Up
Just a comment regarding clear powder coating. My powder coating guy did the
aluminum windsheild frame on my Mastercraft a few years ago with a really
cool metalic silver coating and the way I understood it, he did the color
first and then did a clear powder coat over top to give it a shine as the
metalic color doesn't shine. I know he didn't spray it with clear coat.
Also, there are durable paints on the market that look just like cast steel
or stamped steel.
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 18:59:04 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Suspension Clean Up
John Hertog wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> A good question.
>
> If the 300H is the same as 300G, then the upper control arms should be
> painted black, as well as the suframe, and brake backing plates. The
> torsion bars should also be black, they were dipped in a heavy epoxy-type
> thick paint.
>
> Everything else (spindles; lower control arms; steering arms, strut bars,
> tie rods and all steering linkages) should be left "au naturel" - bare
> metal.
>
> I have used Eastwood's "Nyalic" in the past with less than great result.
> Even though the parts were carefully bead-blasted to within an inch of their
> lives, and carefully covered in two or three coats of the Nyalic stuff, they
> did start to rust after a short time. I did talk to my local powdercoating
> shop, and alas, clear powdercoating is not available.
>
> Not sure what I'll do with the next project. Maybe buy a few cans of clear
> Rust-Oleum and try that instead. Anyone out there have any comments or
> suggestions?
There was/is a product called blastcast, spraycan exhaust manifold paint.
Think in a non heat application it holds up well.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:29:07 EST
From: DC300G@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fwd: Suspension Clean Up
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:28:59 -0600
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Panelescent Lighting
Greetings everyone:
As long as we're on the subject ... the dash lights on my F work beautifully when initially turned on. After 10-minutes or so the panelescent lighting intensity begins to fade and goes to very dim. Could it be a leaky capacitor in the power supply? Any thoughts?
Mark Schueller
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:07:38 -0800
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Unpainted cast iron suspension parts
Cast blast, cast iron colored spray paint, available from Eastwood and others, would be my choice for the natural, unpainted suspension parts.
I've had very good success with it. I used it on my '51 Chrysler Windsor convert in '92 and it still looks good.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 23:12:59 -0600
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Chrysler 300 News of the ME 4-12
Taken from an Edmonds Video in the NY Times:
Chrysler ME Four-Twelve Prototype
Date Posted 01-04-2004
What Is It?
Chrysler ME Four-Twelve Prototype
What's Special About It?
Evidently, DaimlerChrysler executives couldn't sit idly by as Ford took its
GT supercar from concept to 2005 production car. And so on the first day of
the big show in Detroit, they surprised the tightly packed crowd by
unveiling one of their own, the ME Four-Twelve.
"ME" stands for midengine, while "Four-Twelve" refers the car's 6.0-liter,
12-cylinder engine force-fed by four turbochargers. The engine, by the way,
was developed with the help of the elite AMG performance division of
Mercedes-Benz. Output is rated at an incredible 850 horsepower at 5,750 rpm
and 850 pound-feet of torque from 2,500 to 4,500 rpm. With a curb weight of
2,800 pounds, the ME Four-Twelve has a power-to-weight of one horsepower for
every 3.4 pounds of car. It's hard to get your mind around numbers like
these, but the projected acceleration numbers are cause for faint-hearted
enthusiasts to take a chair: The ME is said to be capable of pulling a
2.9-second 0-to-60-mph run and a 10.6-second quarter-mile at 142 mph. Top
speed is 248 mph. Power flows to the 20-inch rear wheels via a seven-speed
Ricardo double wet-clutch transmission. Drivers will use Formula One-style
shift paddles to change gears.
It goes without saying that the ME Four-Twelve is constructed of extremely
lightweight materials ? carbon fiber and aluminum ? that give it the rigid
foundation necessary for supercar reflexes. The suspension employs a double
wishbone design, and the compression and rebound that result from cornering
forces are electronically controlled. The braking system makes use of
15-inch ventilated carbon ceramic rotors. The wheels measure 19 by 10 inches
in front and 20 by 12.5 inches in back, and are respectively fitted with
265/35 and 335/30 Michelins. Inside the cockpit, designers allowed plenty of
the car's carbon-fiber structure to show through, but company executives
noted that all surfaces likely to come into contact with the car's occupants
are covered in fine-quality materials.
What's Edmunds' Take?
Chrysler executives were adamant that the ME Four-Twelve is a prototype, not
a concept, and insist that it will be road-ready by the summer of 2004.
Besides providing the company with considerable bragging rights, the
prospect of a production car gives well-to-do Mopar enthusiasts a new reason
to dream. ? Erin Riches
--
Ray Jones, Jones Ridge, in the Ouachita Mtns near Mena, Western Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 21:23:52 -0800
From: Rich Barber <barber@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chrysler 300 News of the ME 4-12
Sounds like a fantastic race car. Reckon there will be an ME-412 club
fifty years from now?
Rich Barber
Brentwood, Contra Costa County, CA
Ray Jones wrote:
>Taken from an Edmonds Video in the NY Times:
>
>Chrysler ME Four-Twelve Prototype
>Date Posted 01-04-2004
>
>
>What Is It?
>Chrysler ME Four-Twelve Prototype
>What's Special About It?
>Evidently, DaimlerChrysler executives couldn't sit idly by as Ford took its
>GT supercar from concept to 2005 production car. And so on the first day of
>the big show in Detroit, they surprised the tightly packed crowd by
>unveiling one of their own, the ME Four-Twelve.
>"ME" stands for midengine, while "Four-Twelve" refers the car's 6.0-liter,
>12-cylinder engine force-fed by four turbochargers. The engine, by the way,
>was developed with the help of the elite AMG performance division of
>Mercedes-Benz. Output is rated at an incredible 850 horsepower at 5,750 rpm
>and 850 pound-feet of torque from 2,500 to 4,500 rpm. With a curb weight of
>2,800 pounds, the ME Four-Twelve has a power-to-weight of one horsepower for
>every 3.4 pounds of car. It's hard to get your mind around numbers like
>these, but the projected acceleration numbers are cause for faint-hearted
>enthusiasts to take a chair: The ME is said to be capable of pulling a
>2.9-second 0-to-60-mph run and a 10.6-second quarter-mile at 142 mph. Top
>speed is 248 mph. Power flows to the 20-inch rear wheels via a seven-speed
>Ricardo double wet-clutch transmission. Drivers will use Formula One-style
>shift paddles to change gears.
>It goes without saying that the ME Four-Twelve is constructed of extremely
>lightweight materials ? carbon fiber and aluminum ? that give it the rigid
>foundation necessary for supercar reflexes. The suspension employs a double
>wishbone design, and the compression and rebound that result from cornering
>forces are electronically controlled. The braking system makes use of
>15-inch ventilated carbon ceramic rotors. The wheels measure 19 by 10 inches
>in front and 20 by 12.5 inches in back, and are respectively fitted with
>265/35 and 335/30 Michelins. Inside the cockpit, designers allowed plenty of
>the car's carbon-fiber structure to show through, but company executives
>noted that all surfaces likely to come into contact with the car's occupants
>are covered in fine-quality materials.
>What's Edmunds' Take?
>Chrysler executives were adamant that the ME Four-Twelve is a prototype, not
>a concept, and insist that it will be road-ready by the summer of 2004.
>Besides providing the company with considerable bragging rights, the
>prospect of a production car gives well-to-do Mopar enthusiasts a new reason
>to dream. ? Erin Riches
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 00:57:04 -0500
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
Hi Group,
I have a 70 300 vert that is slowly going back on the road. It has been
sitting under dry shelter for about 2 years. I have now discovered the
vinyl dash pad has a thick greasy coating on it. It is transparent but
sticky. I have tried alcohol and then some enamel thinner on it, but it
doesn't take all of the coating off, although it is less sticky. I am
leery of using stronger solvents. Does anyone have any experience with
this? Any solutions? Oh yes, I live in Florida, so there was humidity to
consider, but I kept Damp-Rid in the car to lower humidity.
Same car, a previous repaint has left some of the underhood rubber with
overspray. Any hints on how to remove the paint and restore the original
flat black surface of the rubber?
Thanks,
Bill Huff
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 06:02:37 -0000
From: "gary_r_23" <garyandkathie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1960 Radios
Hello,
I have a couple radio questions regarding the Golden Touch and Golden
Tone radios:
1) Chrysler went to the trouble of making the Golden Tone radio
buttons match the heater control buttons and the pushbutton trans
controls. Should the radio buttons also light up or glow like those
other control buttons? My dial face lights up nicely, but the buttons
don't.
2) Has anyone had any luck trying to repair the Golden Touch radios?
I just bought one to upgrade from my Golden Tone and the radio plays
great until you press the LOC button and then it goes completely
dead. The radio will not even crackle until you turn it off and back
on again. The same thing happens when you press the foot pedal. Also
some of the buttons don't return right away after you press them.
Also looking for recommendation of a shop to repair the Golden Touch
if no one can give me clues to what might be wrong. Figured out AFTER
I bought the Golden Touch that it was for a 61, even though it came
out of a 60 New Yorker. So I want to make this 61 radio work right
and then sell it so I can go buy the right one. Anybody want to swap?
Thanks,
Gary Runkel
Canton, Michigan
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 08:22:15 EST
From: lettercars@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: apology
In a message dated 1/5/2004 3:37:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
olson77@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Gil, It has been brought to my attention by one of
> our long standing members and after re-reading my post
> to your answer about the mirror brace thing, My post
> might be construed as somewhat sarcastic. Please let
> me assure you that is not the case or my intent. I
> highly respect your opinion and your knowledge. Thats
> why I requested it. We all probably have Gary
> thoroughly confused at this point as to what to do
> about right side mirrors. That's why I implied, I
> think, that it's your ride,the title is in your name,
> do what you want to do! I extend this apology to any
> others who might feel i've over stepped good judgment.
> Regards, Jerry
>
Hi Jerry and All:
Absolutely no offense taken. My remarks on what was available from the
factory during those years was intended just as general information for the
membership. 300ly, Gil
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
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