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There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Spindles, brake conversions
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: stopping distances
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: more on modifications
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: more on modifications
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
5. hp improvement
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: hp improvement
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
7. Re: hp improvement
From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: more on modifications
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
9. RE: hp improvement
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: more on modifications
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
11. 4-Speed K Vert
From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Bat wing Aircleaners
From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
13. Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. wanted chrysler 300 posters!
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. brake conversions problem
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Springs
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 07:12:11 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Spindles, brake conversions
Good mornin'.
As far as the master cylinder, you should be right. Additionally, for the over/under booster cars, a '69 Dart dual master works also. The real key for the pre-'62 cars isn't the mount bolt spacing (same for many years) but lid clearance. The '69 Dart dual master that I used on my '61 Newport (w/Aspen/Volare discs) was very low profile; rectangular in shape and had a verrrry convenient center hold-down bolt that when loosened, allowed the lid to be moved a 1/4 turn, greatly facilitating easy fluid check/add.
-----Original Message-----
From: The Holmgren's [mailto:paulholm@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 10:14 PM
To: JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Spindles, brake conversions
"JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just got of the phone with AAJ Brakes. He is a very small business and is
> expanding his product line as fast as he can. At this time, neither he nor
> I know what the difference between a '62 and a '63-4 kit would be, other
> than that it is probable that the spindles are different due to the Lockheed
> brakes.
>
> He said that he has heard that a '73 - '79 B body master cylinder (dual
> circuit) supposedly will bolt right on to a 'forward look' MoPar. Can
> anybody confirm that this is so?
>
> If one of you has an interchange manual, you can help AAJ and the rest of us
> out by determining which cars have the same spindle as a '62 Dodge 880 (the
> kit he has now) and which have the same spindle as a '63-4 Chrysler. Better
> yet would be a 'spindle roster' from '55 to '65, as this would show the
> total number of kits needed to cover all these cars.
>
> My understanding is that AAJ kits are non-destructive and the car can be
> converted back to stock if this is desired later on. That would suit me
> fine, as I would rather not do anything that cannot be undone.
>
> 300ly,
> Doug
ok here is the info in my interchange; 50-65 years only listed;
ALL 57 should match FULL size 58-62 Chryslers excluding Windsor &
Newport
63-64 are listed as different.
65 diff from rest, both drum and disk
According to this source you are limited to CHRYSLER ONLY,
none of the Dodge, Plymouth work, ONLY Desoto 57-61 would interchange
depending on application
BUT They ALL use the same inner and outer bearings
So I think there is probably differences in spindle length and how
the various parts bolt on. So I would infer that a side-by-side eyeball
inspection would have to occur.
I do have a spare 57 spindle sitting around.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: stopping distances
While it hopefully is a rare occurrence, any of us who
have had to drive our drum brake equipped cars through
high water will also appreciate the advantage that
disc brakes offer. Drum brakes are nearly ineffective
after getting soaked until they dry out, but disc
brakes don't seem to suffer any ill effects.
I still plan on leaving my classics as they came from
the factory. We all have to make our own decisions
about what to do with our personal possessions.
Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
--- "JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" <doug_jones@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> Gents,
>
> A quick question ... I also dug into my current mags
> (C & D mostly) trying
> to establish current stopping distance performance,
> but the measure is 70 to
> 0, not 60 to 0. Where are you guys getting modern
> 60 to 0 distances?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hertog [mailto:crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 8:59 PM
> To: Ron Waters; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] stopping distances
>
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> Good question, about stopping distances. A few
> months back I went thru some
> period car magazines and charted stopping distances
> for our cars, as
> reported by Car Life, Road and Track, HotRod, etc. ;
> sixty-to-zero type of
> stuff. I then compared to stopping distances for
> current cars as reported
> in same magazines road tests.
> I was VERY surprised to see that there was little or
> no difference between
> the two! I'm not prepared to start the research
> process all over again,
> you'll have to take my word as to the results, or do
> your own homework.
>
> To be fair, I also remember the comments from these
> same period magazines,
> describing the brakes as inadequate, prone to fade,
> not on par with the rest
> of the cars' performance, etc .; so it seems that
> while the 300's did have
> adequate zero-to-sixty stopping power, they somehow
> displeased the
> magazine's testers.
>
> It appears possible that a Chrysler 300 with a good
> braking system will stop
> in the same distance than a new, current, disc-brake
> and ABS equipped sedan.
> At least, on a one-time basis. I doubt this
> performance could be repeated
> when the drum brakes get hot. Of course, it can be
> argued that you only
> need ONE good stop if you have to jam on the brakes
> in an emergency.
>
> My point, if I have one, is that disc brakes just
> work more smoothly,
> evenly, and reliably, especially after multiple use,
> especially after they
> have seen some use. They don't need periodic shoe
> adjustement. I installed
> discs on my 300L some 30,000 VERY HARD miles ago
> and, so far, same pads are
> still on the car. I've never had to mess with the
> system in 30,000 miles.
> I've never regretted installing them. But, as I
> stated earlier, this car is
> a real driver, not an occasional weekend / fair
> weather ride.
>
> Kevin, you are quite right with your comments, by
> the way. It is entirely
> possible that if my beloved '62 300 Sport had not
> been disc-brake equipped
> and such a blast to drive, I might have just left it
> home and driven my
> Subaru Brat instead. Of course, had that been the
> case, I'd be dead right
> now. The speeding SUV that broadsided me at 60+ mph
> didn't seem to care that
> I was driving at 5 mph, or had disc brakes on my
> car.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:49:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more on modifications
As someone stated earlier, in normal driving it would
really be unusual to have to worry about brake fade
with the original drum brakes. Stopping the first time
is of utmost importance, but brake fade should not be
a factor. Race track driving is another story.
I feel that the original brakes on my G do a fine job.
I wouldn't expect a 2+ ton car to stop as quickly as a
1-1/2 ton car with discs and ABS. Have those of you
who don't like the "feel" of your original drum brakes
checked if the power brake booster, vacuum hoses, and
vacuum reserve tank are doing their jobs properly?
Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
--- "baker.6pack" <Baker.6pack@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> Forgive me, but I just got to ask. How well did
> that disc brake conversion
> on your sport 300 keep you from getting in a bad
> accident?
> Just teasing you.
>
> K. Baker
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 5:49 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] more on modifications
>
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > OK, I can't help myself - gotta butt in ! I don't
> own a Porsche or a
> > Beemer, and nothing built after 1986 or so..
> > I did rent a new Volvo something or other
> recently, and of course I have
> > driven newer cars of all type, here and there .
> They just don't turn me on
> > like my 300F/G's do! But they sure do stop
> "better" . As in more evenly,
> > smoothly, straight, time and time again.
> >
> > My 300L was converted to discs as soon as I bought
> it. It is a pleasure to
> > drive, and to STOP. Again and again and again and
> again at nauseam. And
> even
> > with another 4000 lb. Chrysler sitting on the car
> trailer being towed
> behind
> > the 300L. My other 300's, at this time two
> 300G's, have the original
> > braking systems, and, well, they sure detract from
> the driving pleasure I
> > experience anytime I take one of those cars out.
> The brakes, and only the
> > brakes, make these cars feel old and outdated.
> >
> > It is quite possible to upgrade the handling and
> steering of a 300 in a
> > gentle, non-butchering kind of way. The formula is
> simple: install KYB
> > shocks front and back, and have Eaton Spring make
> you a set of new rear
> > springs, one step heavier duty than stock. Have
> the steering box rebuilt
> to
> > Firm-Feel spec, and install a new steering shaft
> insulator bushing,
> > available from Gary Goers. Make sure ALL of your
> front end components are
> in
> > good shape - especially bushings. Then, get some
> good tires ( I like
> > Goodyear Eagle GT+4's, P235/75R15, V rated to
> about 150 mph. ). If you
> like
> > to show your car, then just get a second set of
> rims and switch back and
> > forth between your "show, bias ply, correct
> WWWidth tires" and your
> > "driving, safe radial" tires. Have your car
> aligned to Mike Laiserin
> specs -
> > max caster while still being able to retain camber
> within spec. You'll now
> > have a 300 that goes round corners and over bumps
> and down the road
> > oh-so-nice !
> >
> > Likewise it is possible to "upgrade" the original
> 413 to run on today's
> > lousy gas - as was pointed out earlier on this
> listserver, lower the
> > compression ratio a bit, back off the timing a
> hair, and, PLEASE, leave
> > those 2903's and 3505's carbs alone ! They're just
> fine. If you crave
> > performance, a little cylinder head porting will
> bring you back to the
> > original HP rating. If you crave MORE
> performance, please don't butcher
> up
> > a 300 letter car. Get a 300 sport, Saratoga,
> etc... and install your
> fuelie
> > / superchargers/ turbochargers on those cars
> instead. Build a 300
> look-alike
> > like Dean Smith's '61 300R and have a lot of fun
> with it.
> >
> > So - all this leads us back to - brakes. Most of
> us will be content to
> leave
> > the original system alone. It's certainly useable.
> It's safe, too, as long
> > as ALL your brake lines have been replaced
> recently and all wheel
> cylinders
> > and brake hoses renewed. Anyone out there driving
> his or her 300 with ANY
> > original brake line ( now 35 to 45 years old) or
> brake hose - you've got a
> > death wish. Replace ALL your steel brake lines -
> including the
> front-to-back
> > one !
> >
> > Good point about the original drums, especially
> for 300's up to 1962. I
> > don't know where to get new ones except for
> junkyards. Quite a few 300's
> > that have come thru here in the past couple years
> have had little or no
> meat
> > left on the drums - they're just plain worn down
> to the cord and are past
> > the safe/usable stage. The only source of good
> brake drums that I know of
> > is salvage yards and / or parts cars. If anyone
> knows any different,
> > please - LET ME KNOW ! I need drums for 300F and
> 300G 's
> >
> > Both my 300G's have good drums, new shoes, new
> lines, new wheel cylinders,
> > hardware and return springs. Shoes have been
> contour-ground to the drums.
> > Much care has been taken in bleeding / adjusting/
> etc. Both cars feel,
> well,
> > inadequate and unsatisfactory in the braking
> departement.
> >
> > So - the one issue at hand is: to convert to
> discs, or not to convert...
> > it's a personal decision, and there's no right and
> wrong - you should do
> to
> > your car what you want to do to your car. Most
> people I know won't need
> disc
> > brake conversions. They don't drive their 300's
> far enough, fast enough,
> or
> > hard enough. Those that do use their cars on a
> regular basis, to travel
> > great distances, and at a high rate of speed
> whenever possible, might be
> > tempted to do so. If that is the case, then
> consider doing it in an
> > unobtrusive and gentle manner - using the original
> spindles and a bracket
> to
> > mount a caliper attached to said spindles. Such
> a modification is not
> > permanent and can be easily reversed, perhaps by
> the next owner of your
> 300.
> > Same story with single versus dual master cylinder
> setup.
> >
> > Dan Reitz has performed such mods to his 300F, and
> it's an impressive
> > difference over the stock setup. And, the car is
> NOT butchered or
> altered -
> > it could probably be returned to 100% stock
> configuration in a
> couple-three
> > hours. Way to go.
> >
> > Please - live and let live. Keeping your 300
> original is always a safer
> bet.
> > It will increase its resale value and you'll be
> able to say " it's all
> > original" to all that may ask. If you drive long
> and hard on today's
> > highways, in traffic, putting on a few thousand
> miles each year, it would
> > seem like common sense to upgrade to disc brakes -
> it might just save your
> > life, and certainly will help to preserve your
> 300, from getting into a
> bad
> > accident.
> >
> > If you must modify, please do so in a gentle,
> unobtrusive and reversible
> > manner. These are rare, very special collector
> cars and should be treated
> > with the respect they deserve.
>
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 10:01:29 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Hi all:
Everyone seems to key in on being able to stop once with no brake fade.
There are other occasions where brakes will fade and there is no panic
stopping involved. Years ago I drove my '56 Dodge over the Santa Monica
mountains to the ocean. When I got to the bottom of the steep winding road,
I had virtually no brakes. The last mile or so, I was in low range. If I
had disc brakes, I would not have had this problem. This is one of the key
reasons I converted my 300F to discs.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: hp improvement
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
=====
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:48:36 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: hp improvement
In a message dated 10/12/2001 2:02:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
A coffe can would really look stupid on a 300.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:12:53 -0500
From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: hp improvement
moparted wrote:
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
>
> =====
YESSSS!!!! but what would be the total gain with dual exhaust????
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:40:07 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Most people use a lower gear when going down a mountain so that the vehicle
acts as it's own brake. This keeps your top speed at a maximum. This will
reduce brake fade and brake wearout and will also let you keep control of the
vehicle. Don't need disc brakes to put a car in a lower gear.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:18:04 -0500
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: hp improvement
Yes, that clears up a question I have had. Why Chrysler put those strange
stainless steel exhaust tips on the 70 Hurst!
Paul Thomassen
thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: moparted [mailto:moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 1:01 PM
To: 300 CLUB
Subject: [Chrysler300] hp improvement
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
=====
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 15:26:08 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Gee Mike, thanks for the lesson.
Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:55:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 4-Speed K Vert
Saw this on a cars and parts online ad. I have no idea
about any of the claims of the ad, I'm just pasting
it. Wonder if it's documented?? Anyone calling should
obtain the VIN number for all the 300 Letter cars and
pass them on to help update and maintain the registry.
Chrysler 1964 300-K "rare 4-speed close ratio"
convertible. Power steering, brakes, windows, seat.
Extremely low production automobile needing total
restoration $9,500. Factory air convertible parts car
available. Also have unrestored automatic 300-K
convertible available. 480-699-6160 (AZ)
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:03:11 -0500
From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Bat wing Aircleaners
Hi Group;
René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
condition and suchlike.
Ray Jones
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:33:53 -0700
From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
Hello. I am delivering our 55 Imperial Newport to its new home in San Diego during the week of 10/22 to 10/26. Will have an empty triler on the return trip north. Anyone need a car hauled from San Diego or LA are up to the San Francisco/Bay Area. Will do for expenses.
Let me know---Henry Hopkins 1510 North St., Berkeley, CA 510-559-134 or cell 510-220-9134
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:36:25 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
Beware on Renee Kroeger he gave me the shaft a couple of years ago on a set of WCFB
Carbs. for a 1956 Chrysler . They were junk completly striped of all parts. They were
sold as good shape just needed rebuilding. I paid $ 400 and
the bases were rusted solid. Never could get them loose. He refused to give the money
back and then would not answer any phone calls or letters. I even called the D.As office
where he lives. They would not act in my behave . They had a $ 2000 min. to act on my
complaint. So Be carefull. ...Gary Barker
hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi Group;
> René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
> Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
> You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
> condition and suchlike.
> Ray Jones
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:04:40 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
I wonder if the Chrysler 300 poster that showed all of the years of 300
letter cars from 55 to 65 is still available. I have a friend looking for
one. I believe that they were available from the other Chrysler 300 club out
of Portland. Can someone help me out with this.
Best regards from Fern in getting colder Cranbrook BC
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:46:10 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake conversions problem
Hi to all,
Jeff e-mailed me this, it should have gone to the group instead. It
really pertains to disc conversions on 300J's and ram 300K's, and I am not
at all familiar with the remote booster system . Anyone having any
suggestions as to how to eliminate Jeff's problem, please e-mail him back
directly at mr-320@xxxxxxxxx or send back thru listserver. . Thanks.
John
======================================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff shenk" <mr-320@xxxxxxxxx>
> john;
> there is one thing on the 63-4 disc conversion that you havent
> touched on andits a biggie, its the problem of the remote booster
> [hydravac] sucking air at zero backpressure.
> when i converted my k to discs, i took the residual pressure
> valve out of the m/c and tossed it, as discs require zero backpressure
> to keep from having a very heavy drag. since this was, by a long shot,
> not the first disc conversion ive done, i elt quite confident, not
> realizing that it WAS the first one with a hydravac, i never gave it any
> thought at all. i did have a bit of difficulty in the initial bleeding,
> getting all he air out was tough, couldnt figure where it all was coming
> from, but finally got it done and went to take it on a test ride. the
> test ride was exciting to say the least. the first 3 times i pushed the
> pedal it was fine, then it had 1/4 free pedal, then 1/2 pedal, then it
> just barely was there and i turned around to come back and it had zero
> pedal, no brakes at all. did manage to get back safely, it was fun, and
> a careful post mortem showed that the h/vac was sucking air at zero
> backpressure and gradually filling the line with air. i got a kit and
> rebuilt the h/vac and no joy, it still did it, seems to be a built in
> problem, the h/vac needed backpressure to keep the seal, just like the
> w/cyl cups that the residual pressure system is designed to keep sealed.
> i never got the problem really fixed, the drag didnt seem to
> affect mileage and it didnt bother me at all, except to be sure to run
> lifetime warranty pads for cheaper replacement costs as i was only
> getting 4000 mi/set of pads due to drag wear. when i parked the k in 93
> or 4 it was one of the things that needed to be fixed before it hit the
> street again.
> it hasnt hit the street and hasnt been fixed, any suggestions
> would be very much appreciated as im about ready to finally build an eng
> for it and put it back on the street.
>
> JEFF
> tucson az.
>
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 22:01:36 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Springs
Hi all
Can anyone tell me if there is any specs or measurements you can check on rear springs when off the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle will sit at the correct height? My '57 workshop manual only mentions checking for a difference between each spring to prevent sitting uneven. I have noticed that many of the cars I have seen with retensioned springs seem to sit too high.
Thanks for any help
Owen
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