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There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. 392 Hemi Engine
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: hp improvement
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 60 chrysler 300 fs for sale
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. MORE ON MODIFICATIONS
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
5. Re: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
From: Herman <herman440@xxxxxxxxx>
7. winter storage
From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: winter storage
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. CAR FOR SALE
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
10. Brake Drums
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Brake Drums
From: "Val Jeffers" <valj48@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Brake Drums
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Brake Drums
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Downhill Subject
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
15. RE: Brake Drums
From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. re: (Chrysler 300) Brake Drums
From: "Pweihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Brake Drums
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: re: (Chrysler 300) Brake Drums
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
20. brake drums:
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
21. brake drums
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
22. Re: brake drums:
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
23. Re: brake drums
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 08:47:02 -0500
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 392 Hemi Engine
From the San Jose, CA newspaper:
Chrysler 392 Hemi engine, original, complete less carb, $1800 firm, 408-629-4948.
I don't know anything more about the engine, nor do I live near San Jose. Best regards, Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 07:35:54 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: hp improvement
Yes, it would but you'd sure be a hit with the "little tiny jap car/big
stereo/baggy pants" crowd.
Mike
At 02:48 PM 10/12/01 -0400, MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx wrote:
>In a message dated 10/12/2001 2:02:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> >
>
>A coffe can would really look stupid on a 300.
>
>Mike Meyer
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:43:40 +0000
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 60 chrysler 300 fs for sale
Dear chrysler 300 would you know of any chrysler 300 fs for sale thank you
tom.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:44:12 EDT
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: MORE ON MODIFICATIONS
Dear Members,
Using Low Gear to slow a car down while on a long downgrade isn't it the very
best advice, because our high compression engines in trying to slow the
vehicle down can stretch rod bearing cap bolts, that's why dragster and funny
cars and other racing cars throw there vehicles in neutral at the end of the
quarter mile. Trucks are know to use lower gears on a down grade but they
don't hurt the engines cause its a low compression engine, except for deisel
, but diesel engines are extra extra heavy duty. Chances are you wouldn't
stretch a bearing cap slowing one of those things down from coming out of
orbit. If I was coming down a long long down grade, at most I would slip
into second gear only, and gently tap my brakes.
Do you agree Dan????
Teddy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 09:51:36 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
Hi John:
Many thanks for that information. It appears that there is a demand for
something like that presently. Does anyone still have the original prints or
maybe we should be making a new one. Fortunately I do have one which I had
framed a few years ago as the white 1965 300L factory four speed
convertible at the bottom of the poster is in my possession but I still have
not restored it yet. Our local Chrysler dealership is interested in having
one to display in their show room so possibly a lot of other dealerships may
be responsive to the same. Best regards from Fern
----- Original Message -----
From: John L. Chesnutt <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Fern Rivard <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 23:07
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] wanted chrysler 300 posters!
> Hi Fern,
> The posters are no longer available. They have been out of print for
atleast
> 10 years. Ray Doern originally had them made up.
>
> John & Arlys Chesnutt, 300C, Portland, OR.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:07:39 +0200
From: Herman <herman440@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
I have made my own posters a couple of times....
You should see my walls...!! But I have it easy, I work at a
printshop... :o)
We can make large format posters at work from about every
magazine-advertisement printed.
Once printed a 3' by 4' poster of a red '62 300 convertible for our
Chrysler Dealer here in town. I scanned it from a magazine, did some
touching up, and then print it out.
I also made a poster of a dualpage-spread from a mag. which shows a '66
Charger-ad.
I have no doubth your local printshop can do that also for you.
Greetings,
Herman Meiners.
The Netherlands
Fern Rivard wrote:
> Hi John:
> Many thanks for that information. It appears that there is a
> demand for
> something like that presently. Does anyone still have the original
> prints or
> maybe we should be making a new one. Fortunately I do have one which I
> had
> framed a few years ago as the white 1965 300L factory four speed
> convertible at the bottom of the poster is in my possession but I
> still have
> not restored it yet. Our local Chrysler dealership is interested in
> having
> one to display in their show room so possibly a lot of other
> dealerships may
> be responsive to the same. Best regards from Fern
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John L. Chesnutt <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Fern Rivard <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 23:07
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] wanted chrysler 300 posters!
>
>
> > Hi Fern,
> > The posters are no longer available. They have been out of print for
>
> atleast
> > 10 years. Ray Doern originally had them made up.
> >
> > John & Arlys Chesnutt, 300C, Portland, OR.
>
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:52:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: winter storage
as we are getting close to the winter months, it is
time to decide on the proper storage methods for those
vehicles that are going into hard storage, ie storage
for four to six months of inactivity. any thoughts
from members as to the procedures they use to store
their cars for the winter months would be welcome.
thanks, jim
__________________________________________________
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Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 13:59:45 -0700
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: winter storage
You can send then to me in sunny Southern California. They will be well
cared for, exercised often, will never see rain, and never driven through
neighborhoods where they have drive-by shootings. Wait...Never mind.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kelly [mailto:gmman4@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 12:53 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] winter storage
as we are getting close to the winter months, it is
time to decide on the proper storage methods for those
vehicles that are going into hard storage, ie storage
for four to six months of inactivity. any thoughts
from members as to the procedures they use to store
their cars for the winter months would be welcome.
thanks, jim
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:42:40 EDT
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: CAR FOR SALE
Dear Members:
A good friend of mine is in a situation, needs to sell 1967 Chrysler, 440
with a 4 bbls. Recently restored, semi rebuilt engine (rebuilt what needed to
be done) Rebuilt Trans. Freshly painted. Almost Brand New Tires, New Exhaust
systen,,, Color Triple Black with Vinyle top. NO DISSAPOINTMENTS HERE.
Attached Photo for anyone interested.
Any one interested please respond directly LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 15:47:13 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Drums
Dear List,
I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62 and '61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some possible future purpose or just toss them out?
Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and usable condition?
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:14:20 -0400
From: "Val Jeffers" <valj48@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
Speaking of brake drums, where might I find a puller for the rear ? Thanks,
Val Jeffers
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Jasinski
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:12 PM
To: Chrysler 300 Email Network
Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
Dear List,
I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62 and '61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some possible future purpose or just toss them out?
Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and usable condition?
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:52:09 -0400
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
Not sure if this will work or not. I was once told that you can actually
press the inner hub out of the drum and have it repressed into a new drum.
BUT, you will have to find a BIG industrial type brake place in your town in
order for anyone to do it. Not your local parts store. The guy that told
me this lives in Minnesota and has had this done on a '59 DeSoto. The idea
is that Chrysler didn't make the drums themselves, rather they were made
from another source. The drum itself, therefore, is sort of across the
board, with the exception of sizes. The hub itself, because of our axles,
is what is not replacable. If they have the right size, just repress your
hub into a "new" brake drum.
Now, can anyone tell me if this is true, or ad more to it??? And where can
it be done??
Dean Mullinax
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:47 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> Dear List,
>
> I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62 and
'61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He
was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad
information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
>
> My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some possible
future purpose or just toss them out?
>
> Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and
usable condition?
>
> Bob J
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:55:18 -0400
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
To clarify, some brake drums will be in stock at a big enough brake place.
Any feed back on this??
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Bob
Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> Not sure if this will work or not. I was once told that you can actually
> press the inner hub out of the drum and have it repressed into a new drum.
> BUT, you will have to find a BIG industrial type brake place in your town
in
> order for anyone to do it. Not your local parts store. The guy that told
> me this lives in Minnesota and has had this done on a '59 DeSoto. The
idea
> is that Chrysler didn't make the drums themselves, rather they were made
> from another source. The drum itself, therefore, is sort of across the
> board, with the exception of sizes. The hub itself, because of our axles,
> is what is not replacable. If they have the right size, just repress your
> hub into a "new" brake drum.
>
> Now, can anyone tell me if this is true, or ad more to it??? And where
can
> it be done??
>
> Dean Mullinax
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:47 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
>
>
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62
and
> '61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He
> was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad
> information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
> >
> > My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some
possible
> future purpose or just toss them out?
> >
> > Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and
> usable condition?
> >
> > Bob J
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
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>
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:19:08 EDT
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Downhill Subject
1) The rod cap bolts stretching would be from the engine over revving, not
compression braking.
2) Most dragsters running an automatic today have the sprags removed, thus,
no engine braking occurs.
Damage occurs when the car has been allowed to exceed the safe speed of the
next lower gear and the inexperienced driver throws it down a gear to save
himself from other previous bad decision making processes. Our next topic to
avoid discussing disc brakes could be the effect of a high stall converter on
engine braking!!! May I recommend a parachute?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:42:28 -0600
From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Brake Drums
The proper way to remove the hub from the drum is to drill the head off from the inside rather than having it pressed out.
I think you may look long and hard for any new drums. Many of the drums you will find do not have the correct hole size to hold the studs tightly. The last correct ones I found were in Florida and they cost $100 each plus shipping. As I recall, the 4 drums ended up being over $600 total with shipping.
Good luck....
George
----------
From: Dean Mullinax
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 4:52 PM
To: Chrysler 300 Email Network; Bob Jasinski
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
Not sure if this will work or not. I was once told that you can actually
press the inner hub out of the drum and have it repressed into a new drum.
BUT, you will have to find a BIG industrial type brake place in your town in
order for anyone to do it. Not your local parts store. The guy that told
me this lives in Minnesota and has had this done on a '59 DeSoto. The idea
is that Chrysler didn't make the drums themselves, rather they were made
from another source. The drum itself, therefore, is sort of across the
board, with the exception of sizes. The hub itself, because of our axles,
is what is not replacable. If they have the right size, just repress your
hub into a "new" brake drum.
Now, can anyone tell me if this is true, or ad more to it??? And where can
it be done??
Dean Mullinax
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:47 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> Dear List,
>
> I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62 and
'61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He
was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad
information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
>
> My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some possible
future purpose or just toss them out?
>
> Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and
usable condition?
>
> Bob J
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:31:31 -0500
From: "Pweihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re: (Chrysler 300) Brake Drums
Hello to all,
I have a 67 Chrysler 300 that has 11x3 brake drums, rather than the standard 11x2 1/2, and had to replace my drums. I paid $110 each plus shipping. They came without the hub. My local machine shop (in Saint Louis, MO) pressed the studs out, which is what really holds the hub to the drum, and pressed my hubs into the new drums. The drums were then turned and they worked just fine. The only problem was the shoulders of the new replacement studs weren't as long as the old ones, which means that the shoulders didn't come all the way through the drum, but they were long enough to hold the drum to the hub. He said that once the wheel and lug nuts were put on, the assembly would stay in place, which it does. He stated that the studs with the longer shoulders were not available. Everything that was stated in reference to "drums" is on target, I have been through it and it worked. By the way, the total machine shop charge for doing each front drum was approximately $25.00 each.
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:50:55 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Drums
Hey all,
Local brake shop in my area is run by an older man, who used to work for the
county garage in the late 50's early 60's , and serviced all the Mopar cop
cars. He's taught me much about the 55-64 type of brake drums. He spent most
of his times trying to keep the brakes working on these cop cars - not an
enviable task. They were the weakest link...Basically, where we stand today,
there's almost no way to "do it right" . If your drums are worn, firstly,
there are almost no new replacement drums available anywhere, and at a
reasonable price. And secondly, the technology to remove the old drum from
the hub and replace with a new one has pretty much disappered.
These drums are indeed an integral part of the hub; they are held on to the
hub by the wheel lugs, that have been staked over to hold the drums in
place. In order to remove a drum from a hub and replace with a newer unit,
there are two special tools involved.
Tool #1 is made to "cut" the peened - over section of the wheel lugs. Then
the lugs can be pressed out of the hub, and the old drum easily removed.
NOTE : any attempt to press out the lug WITHOUT cutting the peened-over
portion will result in damage to the grooves in the hub that hold the lugs
into place !
Tool#2 is made to peen over the new lugs once the new drum is installed in
the hub (with new lugs already pressed in ) . This duplicates the process by
which these things were manufactured.
The big problem is that tools #1 and #2 are NLA - no longer available. I
have seen them listed in old Wagner brake tool catalogs and such. Since
such drums went out of style many years ago, brake shops have forgotten this
technique, deep-sixed or lost the tools, and none are to be found anywhere.
So - conclusion? our best source of drums is - salvage yards. There's still
a good supply of these out there, with plenty of meat still on the drums.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 21:04:53 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C Leaf Spring Free Height
The spec that Owen is looking for is referred to as "free height". It is
the perpendicular measurement from a line drawn between the center of the
main leaf eyes to the main leaf at the center bolt. This would be in an
Eaton or other spring company catalog for the 300 or H.D. extra-leaf spring.
I don't have any such catalog and would appreciate hearing this dimension
myself. Had it from a catalog about a dozen years ago when I had the leafs
in my first C re-arced, but didn't plan to write a C Handbook at the time!
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 3:43 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 52
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Spindles, brake conversions
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: stopping distances
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: more on modifications
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: more on modifications
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
5. hp improvement
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: hp improvement
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
7. Re: hp improvement
From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: more on modifications
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
9. RE: hp improvement
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: more on modifications
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
11. 4-Speed K Vert
From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Bat wing Aircleaners
From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
13. Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. wanted chrysler 300 posters!
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. brake conversions problem
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Springs
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 07:12:11 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Spindles, brake conversions
Good mornin'.
As far as the master cylinder, you should be right. Additionally, for the
over/under booster cars, a '69 Dart dual master works also. The real key for
the pre-'62 cars isn't the mount bolt spacing (same for many years) but lid
clearance. The '69 Dart dual master that I used on my '61 Newport
(w/Aspen/Volare discs) was very low profile; rectangular in shape and had a
verrrry convenient center hold-down bolt that when loosened, allowed the lid
to be moved a 1/4 turn, greatly facilitating easy fluid check/add.
-----Original Message-----
From: The Holmgren's [mailto:paulholm@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 10:14 PM
To: JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Spindles, brake conversions
"JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just got of the phone with AAJ Brakes. He is a very small business and is
> expanding his product line as fast as he can. At this time, neither he
nor
> I know what the difference between a '62 and a '63-4 kit would be, other
> than that it is probable that the spindles are different due to the
Lockheed
> brakes.
>
> He said that he has heard that a '73 - '79 B body master cylinder (dual
> circuit) supposedly will bolt right on to a 'forward look' MoPar. Can
> anybody confirm that this is so?
>
> If one of you has an interchange manual, you can help AAJ and the rest of
us
> out by determining which cars have the same spindle as a '62 Dodge 880
(the
> kit he has now) and which have the same spindle as a '63-4 Chrysler.
Better
> yet would be a 'spindle roster' from '55 to '65, as this would show the
> total number of kits needed to cover all these cars.
>
> My understanding is that AAJ kits are non-destructive and the car can be
> converted back to stock if this is desired later on. That would suit me
> fine, as I would rather not do anything that cannot be undone.
>
> 300ly,
> Doug
ok here is the info in my interchange; 50-65 years only listed;
ALL 57 should match FULL size 58-62 Chryslers excluding Windsor &
Newport
63-64 are listed as different.
65 diff from rest, both drum and disk
According to this source you are limited to CHRYSLER ONLY,
none of the Dodge, Plymouth work, ONLY Desoto 57-61 would interchange
depending on application
BUT They ALL use the same inner and outer bearings
So I think there is probably differences in spindle length and how
the various parts bolt on. So I would infer that a side-by-side eyeball
inspection would have to occur.
I do have a spare 57 spindle sitting around.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: stopping distances
While it hopefully is a rare occurrence, any of us who
have had to drive our drum brake equipped cars through
high water will also appreciate the advantage that
disc brakes offer. Drum brakes are nearly ineffective
after getting soaked until they dry out, but disc
brakes don't seem to suffer any ill effects.
I still plan on leaving my classics as they came from
the factory. We all have to make our own decisions
about what to do with our personal possessions.
Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
--- "JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" <doug_jones@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> Gents,
>
> A quick question ... I also dug into my current mags
> (C & D mostly) trying
> to establish current stopping distance performance,
> but the measure is 70 to
> 0, not 60 to 0. Where are you guys getting modern
> 60 to 0 distances?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hertog [mailto:crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 8:59 PM
> To: Ron Waters; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] stopping distances
>
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> Good question, about stopping distances. A few
> months back I went thru some
> period car magazines and charted stopping distances
> for our cars, as
> reported by Car Life, Road and Track, HotRod, etc. ;
> sixty-to-zero type of
> stuff. I then compared to stopping distances for
> current cars as reported
> in same magazines road tests.
> I was VERY surprised to see that there was little or
> no difference between
> the two! I'm not prepared to start the research
> process all over again,
> you'll have to take my word as to the results, or do
> your own homework.
>
> To be fair, I also remember the comments from these
> same period magazines,
> describing the brakes as inadequate, prone to fade,
> not on par with the rest
> of the cars' performance, etc .; so it seems that
> while the 300's did have
> adequate zero-to-sixty stopping power, they somehow
> displeased the
> magazine's testers.
>
> It appears possible that a Chrysler 300 with a good
> braking system will stop
> in the same distance than a new, current, disc-brake
> and ABS equipped sedan.
> At least, on a one-time basis. I doubt this
> performance could be repeated
> when the drum brakes get hot. Of course, it can be
> argued that you only
> need ONE good stop if you have to jam on the brakes
> in an emergency.
>
> My point, if I have one, is that disc brakes just
> work more smoothly,
> evenly, and reliably, especially after multiple use,
> especially after they
> have seen some use. They don't need periodic shoe
> adjustement. I installed
> discs on my 300L some 30,000 VERY HARD miles ago
> and, so far, same pads are
> still on the car. I've never had to mess with the
> system in 30,000 miles.
> I've never regretted installing them. But, as I
> stated earlier, this car is
> a real driver, not an occasional weekend / fair
> weather ride.
>
> Kevin, you are quite right with your comments, by
> the way. It is entirely
> possible that if my beloved '62 300 Sport had not
> been disc-brake equipped
> and such a blast to drive, I might have just left it
> home and driven my
> Subaru Brat instead. Of course, had that been the
> case, I'd be dead right
> now. The speeding SUV that broadsided me at 60+ mph
> didn't seem to care that
> I was driving at 5 mph, or had disc brakes on my
> car.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:49:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more on modifications
As someone stated earlier, in normal driving it would
really be unusual to have to worry about brake fade
with the original drum brakes. Stopping the first time
is of utmost importance, but brake fade should not be
a factor. Race track driving is another story.
I feel that the original brakes on my G do a fine job.
I wouldn't expect a 2+ ton car to stop as quickly as a
1-1/2 ton car with discs and ABS. Have those of you
who don't like the "feel" of your original drum brakes
checked if the power brake booster, vacuum hoses, and
vacuum reserve tank are doing their jobs properly?
Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
--- "baker.6pack" <Baker.6pack@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> Forgive me, but I just got to ask. How well did
> that disc brake conversion
> on your sport 300 keep you from getting in a bad
> accident?
> Just teasing you.
>
> K. Baker
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 5:49 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] more on modifications
>
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > OK, I can't help myself - gotta butt in ! I don't
> own a Porsche or a
> > Beemer, and nothing built after 1986 or so..
> > I did rent a new Volvo something or other
> recently, and of course I have
> > driven newer cars of all type, here and there .
> They just don't turn me on
> > like my 300F/G's do! But they sure do stop
> "better" . As in more evenly,
> > smoothly, straight, time and time again.
> >
> > My 300L was converted to discs as soon as I bought
> it. It is a pleasure to
> > drive, and to STOP. Again and again and again and
> again at nauseam. And
> even
> > with another 4000 lb. Chrysler sitting on the car
> trailer being towed
> behind
> > the 300L. My other 300's, at this time two
> 300G's, have the original
> > braking systems, and, well, they sure detract from
> the driving pleasure I
> > experience anytime I take one of those cars out.
> The brakes, and only the
> > brakes, make these cars feel old and outdated.
> >
> > It is quite possible to upgrade the handling and
> steering of a 300 in a
> > gentle, non-butchering kind of way. The formula is
> simple: install KYB
> > shocks front and back, and have Eaton Spring make
> you a set of new rear
> > springs, one step heavier duty than stock. Have
> the steering box rebuilt
> to
> > Firm-Feel spec, and install a new steering shaft
> insulator bushing,
> > available from Gary Goers. Make sure ALL of your
> front end components are
> in
> > good shape - especially bushings. Then, get some
> good tires ( I like
> > Goodyear Eagle GT+4's, P235/75R15, V rated to
> about 150 mph. ). If you
> like
> > to show your car, then just get a second set of
> rims and switch back and
> > forth between your "show, bias ply, correct
> WWWidth tires" and your
> > "driving, safe radial" tires. Have your car
> aligned to Mike Laiserin
> specs -
> > max caster while still being able to retain camber
> within spec. You'll now
> > have a 300 that goes round corners and over bumps
> and down the road
> > oh-so-nice !
> >
> > Likewise it is possible to "upgrade" the original
> 413 to run on today's
> > lousy gas - as was pointed out earlier on this
> listserver, lower the
> > compression ratio a bit, back off the timing a
> hair, and, PLEASE, leave
> > those 2903's and 3505's carbs alone ! They're just
> fine. If you crave
> > performance, a little cylinder head porting will
> bring you back to the
> > original HP rating. If you crave MORE
> performance, please don't butcher
> up
> > a 300 letter car. Get a 300 sport, Saratoga,
> etc... and install your
> fuelie
> > / superchargers/ turbochargers on those cars
> instead. Build a 300
> look-alike
> > like Dean Smith's '61 300R and have a lot of fun
> with it.
> >
> > So - all this leads us back to - brakes. Most of
> us will be content to
> leave
> > the original system alone. It's certainly useable.
> It's safe, too, as long
> > as ALL your brake lines have been replaced
> recently and all wheel
> cylinders
> > and brake hoses renewed. Anyone out there driving
> his or her 300 with ANY
> > original brake line ( now 35 to 45 years old) or
> brake hose - you've got a
> > death wish. Replace ALL your steel brake lines -
> including the
> front-to-back
> > one !
> >
> > Good point about the original drums, especially
> for 300's up to 1962. I
> > don't know where to get new ones except for
> junkyards. Quite a few 300's
> > that have come thru here in the past couple years
> have had little or no
> meat
> > left on the drums - they're just plain worn down
> to the cord and are past
> > the safe/usable stage. The only source of good
> brake drums that I know of
> > is salvage yards and / or parts cars. If anyone
> knows any different,
> > please - LET ME KNOW ! I need drums for 300F and
> 300G 's
> >
> > Both my 300G's have good drums, new shoes, new
> lines, new wheel cylinders,
> > hardware and return springs. Shoes have been
> contour-ground to the drums.
> > Much care has been taken in bleeding / adjusting/
> etc. Both cars feel,
> well,
> > inadequate and unsatisfactory in the braking
> departement.
> >
> > So - the one issue at hand is: to convert to
> discs, or not to convert...
> > it's a personal decision, and there's no right and
> wrong - you should do
> to
> > your car what you want to do to your car. Most
> people I know won't need
> disc
> > brake conversions. They don't drive their 300's
> far enough, fast enough,
> or
> > hard enough. Those that do use their cars on a
> regular basis, to travel
> > great distances, and at a high rate of speed
> whenever possible, might be
> > tempted to do so. If that is the case, then
> consider doing it in an
> > unobtrusive and gentle manner - using the original
> spindles and a bracket
> to
> > mount a caliper attached to said spindles. Such
> a modification is not
> > permanent and can be easily reversed, perhaps by
> the next owner of your
> 300.
> > Same story with single versus dual master cylinder
> setup.
> >
> > Dan Reitz has performed such mods to his 300F, and
> it's an impressive
> > difference over the stock setup. And, the car is
> NOT butchered or
> altered -
> > it could probably be returned to 100% stock
> configuration in a
> couple-three
> > hours. Way to go.
> >
> > Please - live and let live. Keeping your 300
> original is always a safer
> bet.
> > It will increase its resale value and you'll be
> able to say " it's all
> > original" to all that may ask. If you drive long
> and hard on today's
> > highways, in traffic, putting on a few thousand
> miles each year, it would
> > seem like common sense to upgrade to disc brakes -
> it might just save your
> > life, and certainly will help to preserve your
> 300, from getting into a
> bad
> > accident.
> >
> > If you must modify, please do so in a gentle,
> unobtrusive and reversible
> > manner. These are rare, very special collector
> cars and should be treated
> > with the respect they deserve.
>
=== message truncated ===
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 10:01:29 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Hi all:
Everyone seems to key in on being able to stop once with no brake fade.
There are other occasions where brakes will fade and there is no panic
stopping involved. Years ago I drove my '56 Dodge over the Santa Monica
mountains to the ocean. When I got to the bottom of the steep winding road,
I had virtually no brakes. The last mile or so, I was in low range. If I
had disc brakes, I would not have had this problem. This is one of the key
reasons I converted my 300F to discs.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: hp improvement
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
=====
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Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:48:36 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: hp improvement
In a message dated 10/12/2001 2:02:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
A coffe can would really look stupid on a 300.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:12:53 -0500
From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: hp improvement
moparted wrote:
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
>
> =====
YESSSS!!!! but what would be the total gain with dual exhaust????
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:40:07 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Most people use a lower gear when going down a mountain so that the vehicle
acts as it's own brake. This keeps your top speed at a maximum. This will
reduce brake fade and brake wearout and will also let you keep control of
the
vehicle. Don't need disc brakes to put a car in a lower gear.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:18:04 -0500
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: hp improvement
Yes, that clears up a question I have had. Why Chrysler put those strange
stainless steel exhaust tips on the 70 Hurst!
Paul Thomassen
thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: moparted [mailto:moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 1:01 PM
To: 300 CLUB
Subject: [Chrysler300] hp improvement
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
=====
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 15:26:08 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: more on modifications
Gee Mike, thanks for the lesson.
Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:55:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 4-Speed K Vert
Saw this on a cars and parts online ad. I have no idea
about any of the claims of the ad, I'm just pasting
it. Wonder if it's documented?? Anyone calling should
obtain the VIN number for all the 300 Letter cars and
pass them on to help update and maintain the registry.
Chrysler 1964 300-K "rare 4-speed close ratio"
convertible. Power steering, brakes, windows, seat.
Extremely low production automobile needing total
restoration $9,500. Factory air convertible parts car
available. Also have unrestored automatic 300-K
convertible available. 480-699-6160 (AZ)
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:03:11 -0500
From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Bat wing Aircleaners
Hi Group;
René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
condition and suchlike.
Ray Jones
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:33:53 -0700
From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
Hello. I am delivering our 55 Imperial Newport to its new home in San Diego
during the week of 10/22 to 10/26. Will have an empty triler on the return
trip north. Anyone need a car hauled from San Diego or LA are up to the San
Francisco/Bay Area. Will do for expenses.
Let me know---Henry Hopkins 1510 North St., Berkeley, CA 510-559-134 or cell
510-220-9134
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:36:25 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
Beware on Renee Kroeger he gave me the shaft a couple of years ago on a set
of WCFB
Carbs. for a 1956 Chrysler . They were junk completly striped of all parts.
They were
sold as good shape just needed rebuilding. I paid $ 400 and
the bases were rusted solid. Never could get them loose. He refused to give
the money
back and then would not answer any phone calls or letters. I even called
the D.As office
where he lives. They would not act in my behave . They had a $ 2000 min. to
act on my
complaint. So Be carefull. ...Gary Barker
hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi Group;
> René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
> Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
> You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
> condition and suchlike.
> Ray Jones
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:04:40 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
I wonder if the Chrysler 300 poster that showed all of the years of 300
letter cars from 55 to 65 is still available. I have a friend looking for
one. I believe that they were available from the other Chrysler 300 club out
of Portland. Can someone help me out with this.
Best regards from Fern in getting colder Cranbrook BC
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:46:10 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake conversions problem
Hi to all,
Jeff e-mailed me this, it should have gone to the group instead. It
really pertains to disc conversions on 300J's and ram 300K's, and I am not
at all familiar with the remote booster system . Anyone having any
suggestions as to how to eliminate Jeff's problem, please e-mail him back
directly at mr-320@xxxxxxxxx or send back thru listserver. . Thanks.
John
======================================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff shenk" <mr-320@xxxxxxxxx>
> john;
> there is one thing on the 63-4 disc conversion that you havent
> touched on andits a biggie, its the problem of the remote booster
> [hydravac] sucking air at zero backpressure.
> when i converted my k to discs, i took the residual pressure
> valve out of the m/c and tossed it, as discs require zero backpressure
> to keep from having a very heavy drag. since this was, by a long shot,
> not the first disc conversion ive done, i elt quite confident, not
> realizing that it WAS the first one with a hydravac, i never gave it any
> thought at all. i did have a bit of difficulty in the initial bleeding,
> getting all he air out was tough, couldnt figure where it all was coming
> from, but finally got it done and went to take it on a test ride. the
> test ride was exciting to say the least. the first 3 times i pushed the
> pedal it was fine, then it had 1/4 free pedal, then 1/2 pedal, then it
> just barely was there and i turned around to come back and it had zero
> pedal, no brakes at all. did manage to get back safely, it was fun, and
> a careful post mortem showed that the h/vac was sucking air at zero
> backpressure and gradually filling the line with air. i got a kit and
> rebuilt the h/vac and no joy, it still did it, seems to be a built in
> problem, the h/vac needed backpressure to keep the seal, just like the
> w/cyl cups that the residual pressure system is designed to keep sealed.
> i never got the problem really fixed, the drag didnt seem to
> affect mileage and it didnt bother me at all, except to be sure to run
> lifetime warranty pads for cheaper replacement costs as i was only
> getting 4000 mi/set of pads due to drag wear. when i parked the k in 93
> or 4 it was one of the things that needed to be fixed before it hit the
> street again.
> it hasnt hit the street and hasnt been fixed, any suggestions
> would be very much appreciated as im about ready to finally build an eng
> for it and put it back on the street.
>
> JEFF
> tucson az.
>
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 22:01:36 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Springs
Hi all
Can anyone tell me if there is any specs or measurements you can check on
rear springs when off the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle will sit
at the correct height? My '57 workshop manual only mentions checking for a
difference between each spring to prevent sitting uneven. I have noticed
that many of the cars I have seen with retensioned springs seem to sit too
high.
Thanks for any help
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:27:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re: (Chrysler 300) Brake Drums
what if the drum just slides over the studs?
Why won't it be okay onced the wheel is on?
--- Pweihl <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hello to all,
>
> I have a 67 Chrysler 300 that has 11x3 brake drums,
> rather than the standard 11x2 1/2, and had to
> replace my drums. I paid $110 each plus shipping.
> They came without the hub. My local machine shop
> (in Saint Louis, MO) pressed the studs out, which is
> what really holds the hub to the drum, and pressed
> my hubs into the new drums. The drums were then
> turned and they worked just fine. The only problem
> was the shoulders of the new replacement studs
> weren't as long as the old ones, which means that
> the shoulders didn't come all the way through the
> drum, but they were long enough to hold the drum to
> the hub. He said that once the wheel and lug nuts
> were put on, the assembly would stay in place, which
> it does. He stated that the studs with the longer
> shoulders were not available. Everything that was
> stated in reference to "drums" is on target, I have
> been through it and it worked. By the way, the
> total machine shop charge for doing each front drum
> was approximately $25.00 each.
> Paul
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
=====
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:39:25 -0700
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
Subject: brake drums:
All, - the original front drums are of a different construction than the
replacements (AFAIK anyway). The originals have a rather thin "center",
which is swedged to the hub via the wheel studs. Replacements (at least the
ones I have seen & used) are all "cast-iron" (vs the "sheet-metal-looking"
center of the original), and are much thicker in the hub/stud area. This
prevents "re-swedging" - even if you *could* get new (correct) studs.
However, since the hub is what actually "centers" the drum, and the wheel
will surely keep the drum from falling off, it makes no difference, and what
you end up with is a drum that can be "slid" off the hub - just like a rear
drum on 65 & later models. So, I would think that as long as you can *get*
a replacement drum, don't worry about the wheel studs & swedging, all you
need to know is that the center is the correct size for the hub.
I put these replacement "thick" drums on my race car (67 Belvedere) years
ago - a necessity due to the use (required) of extra-long wheel studs. No
problems ever, and made for quick inspection of the shoes.
Regards,
DaveG.
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:31:35 EDT
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
Subject: brake drums
Hello all,
Thought I would add my 2 cents while the discussion was rolling. in
reference to the old drums being of any use or not...there was an elderly
fellow up this way that had a '55 DeSoto with bad drums, I asked him what he
did for drums that were worn out. He replied that he has had them sleeved as
a last resort when replacements were unavailable. I was not filled in on the
entire process of how much press was involved or if the sleeve was pinned or
not, but it seems doable with enough interference fit ( using thermal
dynamics to get a good "press fit") and pinning, or use rivets to tie the 2.
In regards to the removal of the stud swedge used in the locking of drum
to hub, I had a '62 Plymouth wagon from California that a previous owner had
done this to the rears...they pulled off just like a later model, just have a
hub in the way during brake work. These worked fine, didn't know they were
like that till I had to check the brakes one day. Thanks for your time, Dan
Jenks
'62 Sport Fury
'62 Fury wagon
'62 Fury- 4dr.
'68 Coronet R/T Hemi
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:45:08 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: brake drums:
dave g. is 100% correct !!!!!!
JEFF
tucson az.
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 01:02:41 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: brake drums
re the sleeving;
it would seem to me that the best and easiest way to assemble
an item of the dimensions and shape under discussion would be to cold
shrink the sleeve and just slide them together. on a cast iron sleeve
of 12 [or 11] in dia, ill just bet that liquid nitrogen would give you
.035 to .040 of clearance to assemble, plenty of room, they would just
fall together, and warm up and be inseparable!!
this may seem drastic, but at any given time i have 50 to 100
gals of liquid nitrogen sitting in my shop, so i dont find it a problem
at all.
JEFF
tucson az.
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