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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. more on modifications
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
2. 300C Window Switches
From: helmj@xxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: more on modifications
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: 68 300 vert sun visors?
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300C Rear Leaf Spring Free Height
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Brake Drums
From: "RON KURTZ" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. It sounds like a "slinky"
From: "Magik Draggin'" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: It sounds like a "slinky"
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 300C Window Switches
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
10. RE: C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Brake Drums
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Slinkie Sound
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Brake Drums
From: djkrontz@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:50:01 EDT
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: more on modifications
Dear Members,
Using Low Gear to slow a car down while on a long downgrade isn't it the very
best advice, because our high compression engines in trying to slow the
vehicle down can stretch rod bearing cap bolts, that's why dragster and funny
cars and other racing cars throw there vehicles in neutral at the end of the
quarter mile. Trucks are know to use lower gears on a down grade but they
don't hurt the engines cause its a low compression engine, except for deisel
, but diesel engines are extra extra heavy duty. Chances are you wouldn't
stretch a bearing cap slowing one of those things down from coming out of
orbit. If I was coming down a long long down grade, at most I would slip
into second gear only, and gently tap my brakes.
Do you agree Dan????
Teddy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 15:56:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: helmj@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: 300C Window Switches
With all of this talk about fuel-injected 300's, disc brakes for 300's,
altered suspension for 300's, etc. I'm almost afraid to ask this rather
mundane question--oh, well, here goes. Does anyone know where I can get the
power window switches and the mounting bezel (in good condition) for the
master window control for my C? Are these common to New Yorkers, etc.? Any
leads would be appreciated.
Jim Helm
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:20:57 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more on modifications
I put a lot of miles on cummins diesel truck engines over the years and
they always preached to me"never exceed one thousand rpm unless it is
pulling a load or it's running on the jake brake". I always figured that
was sound advice and never revved any engine up without a load.Caterpillar
truck engines with retarders, however, are routinely run up to governed rpm
going downhill without any ill effects . I don't know what the difference
is, maybe they're tougher, somehow.
Mike, in Idaho
At 05:50 PM 10/12/01 -0400, LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx wrote:
>Dear Members,
>
>Using Low Gear to slow a car down while on a long downgrade isn't it the very
>best advice, because our high compression engines in trying to slow the
>vehicle down can stretch rod bearing cap bolts, that's why dragster and funny
>cars and other racing cars throw there vehicles in neutral at the end of the
>quarter mile. Trucks are know to use lower gears on a down grade but they
>don't hurt the engines cause its a low compression engine, except for deisel
>, but diesel engines are extra extra heavy duty. Chances are you wouldn't
>stretch a bearing cap slowing one of those things down from coming out of
>orbit. If I was coming down a long long down grade, at most I would slip
>into second gear only, and gently tap my brakes.
>
>Do you agree Dan????
>
>Teddy
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:41:05 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 68 300 vert sun visors?
Try Year One. I just got a new catalog. and they have them for 67 Chrysler 300. You might
want to give them a call. 1-800-932-7663...Gary Barker
moparted wrote:
> Looking for soursce for new ones.
> Any ideas?
>
> =====
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:48:21 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Rear Leaf Spring Free Height
I should read my own C Handbook a little more often.
The dimension is ALREADY in the C Handbook:
Technical Talk Chapter:
Suspension Height:
Rear:
5.25"
and includes text of how to measure it.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:51:04 -0700
From: "RON KURTZ" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
I just had a couple of 11x2 1/2s converted to 11x3s by getting 11x3 drums
from Kantor and using the hubs from the 11x2 1/2s. The hubs were pressed out
and reinstalled by a large brake shop.
Check the bolt patterns and be sure to get the proper brake support plates
before spending the money for the drums. Support plates for 2 1/2 in.will
not let a 3 in. drum sit properly on the axle.
Regards,
Ron Kurtz
E #292
----- Original Message -----
From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Chrysler 300 Broadcast' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> The proper way to remove the hub from the drum is to drill the head off
from the inside rather than having it pressed out.
>
> I think you may look long and hard for any new drums. Many of the drums
you will find do not have the correct hole size to hold the studs tightly.
The last correct ones I found were in Florida and they cost $100 each plus
shipping. As I recall, the 4 drums ended up being over $600 total with
shipping.
>
> Good luck....
> George
>
>
> ----------
> From: Dean Mullinax
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 4:52 PM
> To: Chrysler 300 Email Network; Bob Jasinski
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
>
> Not sure if this will work or not. I was once told that you can actually
> press the inner hub out of the drum and have it repressed into a new drum.
> BUT, you will have to find a BIG industrial type brake place in your town
in
> order for anyone to do it. Not your local parts store. The guy that told
> me this lives in Minnesota and has had this done on a '59 DeSoto. The
idea
> is that Chrysler didn't make the drums themselves, rather they were made
> from another source. The drum itself, therefore, is sort of across the
> board, with the exception of sizes. The hub itself, because of our axles,
> is what is not replacable. If they have the right size, just repress your
> hub into a "new" brake drum.
>
> Now, can anyone tell me if this is true, or ad more to it??? And where
can
> it be done??
>
> Dean Mullinax
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:47 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
>
>
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62
and
> '61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He
> was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad
> information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
> >
> > My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some
possible
> future purpose or just toss them out?
> >
> > Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and
> usable condition?
> >
> > Bob J
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:05:06 -0500
From: "Magik Draggin'" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: It sounds like a "slinky"
Am developing a really odd sound from the area of the left rear axle on my
"G". After I let off the brake and when I give it some gas to ease forward,
there is a sound which I swear sounds just like someone sliding a dozen or
so coils of an old steel slinky, quickly, from one hand to the other. The
entire sequence of events takes no more than a second, but it is quite
audible from the drivers seat.
I cannot make it do this when the wheels are off the ground and I cannot see
anything visibly wrong when I pull the hub and inspect the brakes, springs,
axle and bearings. It may be coming from the ring and pinion or the carrier
itself, or even the tranny, but it's simply impossible to tell without
strapping my little body under the car while it takes off, and I'm just not
quite that gutsy anymore.
However, while I was looking under there, the universal joint is just fine,
so it is not that. I recall when my dad had a new 56 DeSoto, his would make
the same sound when the car took off from a stop, only he would "goose" it
pretty good when he took off.
Has anyone ever experienced a sound like this and if so what is it and is it
a precursor to something more serious?
Karl
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:38:24 -0700
From: Chuck McGill <chuxter@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: It sounds like a "slinky"
Karl,
In keeping with the KISS formula for auto repair, have you looked in
your trunk? There just might be a slinky rolling around in there ;-)
Also check between the hump and the rear seat..
Chuck
Magik Draggin' wrote:
>Am developing a really odd sound from the area of the left rear axle on my
>"G". After I let off the brake and when I give it some gas to ease forward,
>there is a sound which I swear sounds just like someone sliding a dozen or
>so coils of an old steel slinky, quickly, from one hand to the other. The
>entire sequence of events takes no more than a second, but it is quite
>audible from the drivers seat.
>
>I cannot make it do this when the wheels are off the ground and I cannot see
>anything visibly wrong when I pull the hub and inspect the brakes, springs,
>axle and bearings. It may be coming from the ring and pinion or the carrier
>itself, or even the tranny, but it's simply impossible to tell without
>strapping my little body under the car while it takes off, and I'm just not
>quite that gutsy anymore.
>
>However, while I was looking under there, the universal joint is just fine,
>so it is not that. I recall when my dad had a new 56 DeSoto, his would make
>the same sound when the car took off from a stop, only he would "goose" it
>pretty good when he took off.
>
>Has anyone ever experienced a sound like this and if so what is it and is it
>a precursor to something more serious?
>
>Karl
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>
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>
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>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:27:39 -0400
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Window Switches
Jim -
The p/w switches were the same 57-9 on all makes/models.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <helmj@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300C Window Switches
> With all of this talk about fuel-injected 300's, disc brakes for 300's,
> altered suspension for 300's, etc. I'm almost afraid to ask this rather
> mundane question--oh, well, here goes. Does anyone know where I can get
the
> power window switches and the mounting bezel (in good condition) for the
> master window control for my C? Are these common to New Yorkers, etc.? Any
> leads would be appreciated.
>
> Jim Helm
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 20:57:26 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: C Leaf Spring Free Height
I hope y'all appreciate how critically important it is to be in touch with
people who were there when our cars were built. Joe, you may recall, was
involved with fuel system testing but naturally was privy to all the other
talk around the plant. His memories are priceless to us today and I want to
thank him here publicly for being a life-long motorhead still caring for our
cars and contributing to our interest in them.
If any of you have any contact with any plant employee from management down
to floor sweeps, sit down with them and do a serious interview. None of us
hangs around forever and as any of you know who have lost a parent, you
can't ask the questions "later".
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx [mailto:JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 10:09 PM
To: wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] C Leaf Spring Free Height
Wayne and All,
According to the scuttlebutt at Chrysler Engineering at the time, whoever
designed the rear springs for the 1957 Chrysler products used the unladen
weight instead of the laden weight to calculate the specs for the springs.
There were a lot of people changing rear springs because of it.
I laid out in a snowbank to swap springs from a '57 and a '58, because the
difference was so noticeable. (I was lots younger at the time!)
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, MI
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:57:57 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
I swapped some 2 1/2 x12s onto my '57 Fury ,from a '62 Chrysler police
car.Bolted right on, had to look quite a while to find 14 inch wheels that
would fit over them.
Mike
At 07:51 PM 10/15/01 -0700, RON KURTZ wrote:
>I just had a couple of 11x2 1/2s converted to 11x3s by getting 11x3 drums
>from Kantor and using the hubs from the 11x2 1/2s. The hubs were pressed out
>and reinstalled by a large brake shop.
>
>Check the bolt patterns and be sure to get the proper brake support plates
>before spending the money for the drums. Support plates for 2 1/2 in.will
>not let a 3 in. drum sit properly on the axle.
>
>Regards,
>Ron Kurtz
>E #292
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: 'Chrysler 300 Broadcast' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 4:42 PM
>Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
>
>
> > The proper way to remove the hub from the drum is to drill the head off
>from the inside rather than having it pressed out.
> >
> > I think you may look long and hard for any new drums. Many of the drums
>you will find do not have the correct hole size to hold the studs tightly.
>The last correct ones I found were in Florida and they cost $100 each plus
>shipping. As I recall, the 4 drums ended up being over $600 total with
>shipping.
> >
> > Good luck....
> > George
> >
> >
> > ----------
> > From: Dean Mullinax
> > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 4:52 PM
> > To: Chrysler 300 Email Network; Bob Jasinski
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> >
> > Not sure if this will work or not. I was once told that you can actually
> > press the inner hub out of the drum and have it repressed into a new drum.
> > BUT, you will have to find a BIG industrial type brake place in your town
>in
> > order for anyone to do it. Not your local parts store. The guy that told
> > me this lives in Minnesota and has had this done on a '59 DeSoto. The
>idea
> > is that Chrysler didn't make the drums themselves, rather they were made
> > from another source. The drum itself, therefore, is sort of across the
> > board, with the exception of sizes. The hub itself, because of our axles,
> > is what is not replacable. If they have the right size, just repress your
> > hub into a "new" brake drum.
> >
> > Now, can anyone tell me if this is true, or ad more to it??? And where
>can
> > it be done??
> >
> > Dean Mullinax
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:47 PM
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Drums
> >
> >
> > > Dear List,
> > >
> > > I have a pair of 12" x 2-1/2" front brake drums that will fit the '62
>and
> > '61 Chrysler 300 (maybe others), that were given to me by Matt Allyn. He
> > was mistakenly told that these drums were usable, but was given bad
> > information. I had them measured and they are out of spec.
> > >
> > > My question for the list is...should I save these drums for some
>possible
> > future purpose or just toss them out?
> > >
> > > Has anyone ever heard of any method to return worn drums to safe and
> > usable condition?
> > >
> > > Bob J
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 20:43:29 -0700
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Slinkie Sound
Magik Draggin And Groupe.The spring that holds the shoes together in the
parking break breaks or rusts out.It will make some weird sounds until the shoes
center themselves.If you haven't looked at them in a wile I suggest you do .This
break is really Important in a car without a parking proll in the tranney. Also
check the cable retainer on the backing plate.They get loose or rust away.Just
drop the drive shaft and pull the drum.Let me know if I made the right call.And
see I do talk about things other than carbs and disks.Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 00:20:49 EDT
From: djkrontz@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
Hi group,
With all this talk about brake drums I am wondering what the best procedure
for adjusting the brakes is?
Denny
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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