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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Manifold Heat Control Valve
From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. heat risers
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. heat risers 2
From: "crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. 2002 Calenders
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: heat risers 2
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
6. heat risers
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Heat Riser debate
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:30:25 -0500
From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Manifold Heat Control Valve
Folks --
What's the impact of the lack of manifold heat control valves or heat
risers
I believed there called. My G has the valve shafts cut off to the manifold
and
obviously missing the associated left and right thermostats and hardware.
I have also seen this on several other older cars over the years. In my
case
I have noticed the engine takes several minutes to warm up - result of the
valves
missing?
Are there other issues to consider? Haven't looked into yet -- these
valves
available to re-install?
Regards --
Myles
http://www.nauticom.net
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:26:41 -0500
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: heat risers
In my personal opinion, heat risers were always a stupid idea - unless you
live in Alaska, Newfoundland, or Finland and drive your car to work every
morning !
The effect they have on heating up your engine a minute or two earlier is
not worth the risk to same when they sieze shut and block your exhaust.
And
trust me they are famous for doing just that. If it does, you'll be lucky
to escape with just a cracked manifold... and you probably will be
unaware
that it had siezed shut until it damages something - Like your exhaust
valves !
I would include this only for a show car.
I put a grade 8 nut and bolt thru mine once I hammered the butterfly out
of
it on my 1969 Cadillac. My 1970 Cadillac runs - and warms - just fine
despite never having one of these. 1970 models simply did not have them,
thankfully..
I trust the same applies to Chryslers.
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:17:13 -0500
From: "crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: heat risers 2
Paddycaddy, I would beg to disagree. Heat risers have an important
function on carbureted engines - they make the chokes come off a lot
sooner than without them. Talking mostly about crossram engines, the lack
of heat riser invariably results in fouled plugs from overly rich carbs at
warm-up.
Like anything else, heat risers should be maintained - sprayed with heat
riser lube once ever couple years or so . Of course, with no maintenance,
they seize up and rust in place.
For those of us who don't live in warmer climates, chokes are necessary to
our car's operation. Without chokes, the car bucks and stalls when cold.
With chokes and no heat risers, the car will tend to fouls plugs. With
both the chokes connected, and the heat risers working the way they
should, the car will work well both when hot and when cold.
I have seen too many ram cars, especially, with no heat risers, or with
the things jammed open . Owners wonder why the cars are cranky. Every ram
car I have rebuilt has had the heat risers rebuilt as well, and the result
has always been worth the extra work.
John
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 23:50:45 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2002 Calenders
I saw where the Forwardlook mailing list has a 2002 calendar
they printed up. I saw one of the 2001 calendars and was impressed
with the work. PLENTY of information and nice pictures.
They can be previewed and ordered at this site
http://www.forwardlook.net/calendar2002/index.html
I have NO personal interests in this endeavor.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 00:35:00 EST
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: heat risers 2
I would like to add to John's comment one other scenario, and that is
carb
icing. Lack of heat, coupled with the right atmospheric conditions, ( cool
damp day), fuel evaporation (which also absorbs heat), and manifold
vacuum....all this makes ice under the throttle blades which causes
stalling,
and poor throttle response. think of the liabilities Chrysler would incur
from lawsuits from accidents...just ask Ford.
Water heat is an option, with some inventive plumbing...but not
stock
looking. The best choice is fix'em and maintain them with the Mopar heat
riser lube you can buy at the dealer....if you are racing or whatever you
can
always wire it open till you are done racing . dan
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 00:37:10 -0500
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: heat risers
I agree that the chokes - obviously - will adjust back to "normal" a
bit
slower just as the engine will warm a bit slower.
But I'm not sure what would make the plugs foul. Applying this theory
that plugs foul if the the engine does not immediately warm up would
suggest
that the higher fuel/air mixture needed while the engine is still cold
would
regularly foul plugs in colder climates where the engines obviously would
take much longer to warm to operating temperature - especially this time
of
year(or in August for our compadres down under).
Except for show cars, and for those seeking optimal performance and
especially less risk, I still say that the restriction in the exhaust and
the very real potential for siezing still outwieghs these other concerns.
Purposely restricting exhaust flow just strikes me as a crazy idea from
the getgo - especially in a crossram. Jamming/reversing hot, dirty
exhaust
gases back into the manifold and greatly increasing back pressure back
toward the combustion chamber I suspect wreaks far more havoc (exhaust
valves?) than whatever damage may or not be done by not forcing the engine
to warm a minute or two earlier.
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 22:54:10 -0700
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heat Riser debate
I have to add my 2 cents worth here. Imagine buying a new 2002 300 M and
the computer does not make adjustments in fuel delivery for a cold engine
start / run situation- It stalls, bucks and snorts until the engine warms
up at least part way- A instantly mad consumer who could sue the pants off
of the dealer, D-C and anyone else he can think of. I have owned over 300
Chrysler Products ranging in years from 1959 to 1998. I have had many that
were "COLD BLOODED" and it usually came from choke /pull-off adjustments
being required, plugged exhaust cross over passages, and many times seized
up, damaged, removed etc. heat risers! In the great white north, Rocky
Mountain west, Rainy Seattle, Windy Chicago, New England if you want to
drive your car anytime but the 4th of July you need the heat riser
functioning correctly. Plugs foul out from too rich mixture too long,
drivability sucks and engine life suffers. Leave it working, maintain it,
repair/replace it but leave it as the engineers designed it . Unless you
are racing a fully prepared race engine where you really don't need one it
is a needed item!
Joe Pierce 300 K and 64 Chrysler fanatic..
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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