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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: 57 C engine
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: VIN's an Body Plates
From: "RON KURTZ" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: '62 Chrysler 300 found
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. FW: HD Bars for late '50s Chrysler
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. (no subject)
From: veeech@xxxxxxx
6. possible 55-56 parts car
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
7. rebuilt GJC 7001 auto-lite generator
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Chrysler 300 Parts - mostly 300E
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
From: jrcote56@xxxxxxx
10. G trunk floor replacement
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Changing sway bar bushings
From: "langendorfer" <langendorfer@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: VIN's an Body Plates
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
15. '57 Cont top switch
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Spring Meet
From: "M. Vannice" <mavche@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:12:24 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 57 C engine
Just drop the distributor in, with the rotor on no. 1 position, and see how
it looks.The main reason for the slot being aligned is so some garage
mechanic, tuning up the car later will be able to know which wire to hook
his timing light up to. The distributor will work just fine, whever it is,
as long as the rotor is pointed at the right wire when it fires.As long as
the vacumn advance is in the right area so you have room to turn it to set
the the timing, you can use either spot on either side of straight ahead.
Mike
At 02:37 PM 3/15/02 -0500, vhelbling@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I'm in the process of reassembling the engine for my 57 C. The cam
>has been installed after regrind by iskenderian. Timing marks are lined up
>and the timing of the cam checks ok with a degree wheel. When I install the
>distributor driveshaft, the Chrysler manual says the slot in the shaft that
>drives the distributor should be parallel to the centerline of the crank. I
>cannot get the slot parallel. It is before the centerline as I install it,
>and after the centerline if I move it 1 tooth. Has anyone had this problem?
>If the distributor can be turned to compensate, which way should the slot
>favor, slightly ahead of the centerline or after it? I appreciate any
>help...thanks
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:18:17 -0800
From: "RON KURTZ" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN's an Body Plates
Hello, everyone:
What about the serial number imprint on the frame? Can this help establish
the authenticity of the vehicle?
Regards,
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly Pierce <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; PaddyCaddy . <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] VIN's an Body Plates
> Greetings Group!
> As A Law Enforcement Officer I have to add my nickels worth on this
> debate. Some states it is flat illegal to tamper w/ a vin or vin plate in
> any way! If it falls of due to age, rust, poor weld at the factory(we have
> all seen the aforementioned) Leave it alone and go to your M.V. dept and
get
> a vin inspection form and follow it's instructions. Here it is free to
have
> a vin insp. done by a Law Enforcement officer I don't know about other
> states. It may affect the value of your car if the vin plate is loose and
> not attached but far lessthan having MV give the car an assigned vin. And
> yes we do catch people trying to clone cars, re-body etc. The stupidity of
> some thieves is exceeded only by their willingness to go to prison (and
> greed, laziness etc) for this kind of activity.
> In ALL CASES- LEAVE THE VIN PLATE ALONE!
> Joe Pierce, Court Security and Transport Officer, Yellowstone County
> Sheriffs Office, Billings, Montana
> P.S. Do yourself a favor and don't ask a Officer to verify something
with
> out your states' proper paper work for him to sign as it leaves him in a
> liability situation if you don't!----- Original Message -----
> From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 10:42 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] VIN's an Body Plates
>
>
> > Having been in the old car businees for close to 2 decades now, I can at
> > least recommend the following....
> >
> > If at all possible, never screw with VIN plates - or even body plates
> (much
> > more common). No matter how exacting you are with your paint jobs !
> >
> > Selling a clone car with a shifty body plate might be overlooked by most
> law
> > enforcement agencies - but a VIN with shifty looking rivets will get you
> > into far more trouble than it is worth. There are many old car nuts in
> the
> > police department ! Believe it ! And with the internet thankfully
> > providing them with all the information they need......well, I guess
you
> > get my point.
> >
> > Although I do not speak from experience, I have been approached by
> countless
> > folks who quite obviously have bought a "hot" car and ask me the very
same
> > questions (although they usually want to know where to find new door and
> > ignition tumblers at the same time...) !
> >
> > I am not accusing you - a fellow club member - of the same. I'm only
> > warning you to be VERY CAREFUL if you want to pursue this detail in your
> > restoration. Have you considered having a member of the law
enforcement
> > community inspect and photograph your car before you make such changes
???
> >
> > Sean.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:06:31 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '62 Chrysler 300 found
Rick,
Are the two guages next to each other? Perhaps they share a common ground
or power connection that isn't up to snuff.I don't remember, offhand what
the back of a '61 mopar dash looks like, but it seems like they used a
voltage regulator to drop the actual voltage at the guage to something like
3 volts.I had trouble burning out temp guages on a '65 Barracuda one time
because the regulator wasn't properly grounded and was actually delivering
12 volts, instead of 3.
Mike
\At 09:26 AM 3/15/02 -0800, Rick Tibben wrote:
>.
> Now for my question, on my '61 300G we have done lots of wiring repair.
> But one thing still stymies me. When you turn the key on, the oil pressure
>and water temp. gauges move to a middle position. The amp and fuel side works
>okay. All the guages are new (NOS) or professionally rebuilt. The water
>temp.
>and oil pressure guages never move once they move to the middle position and
>the vehicle is started and run. Is there a fix?
>Thanks
>Rick
>______________________________________________________________________________
>http://www.pronet.net
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:38:32 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: FW: HD Bars for late '50s Chrysler
Hi guys. Major computer problems going on at my house so have not been in
the loop much. Know anti-sway bars are under discussion again. I dropped
the ball on that last year but intended to get it DONE with Saner
Performance with whom I exchanged several emails. But numerous family
situations became priority and the bars clanked.
I had not previously heard of Quickor, so I shot them an inquiry for my C
and F. They responded about the C and a G below so they are not real
familiar with our cars, nor do they know the C and F (or G) have virtually
identical bars, nor do they know there even was ANY factory front bar on a
300. Now, the fact they did not know there was a factory bar bothers me
because there was NO better handling large performance car than our letter
cars and if they aren't familiar with that, then they don't know history in
their own specialty.
At the current time, I can't pursue all this with Quickor or Saner, but at
Saner it was obvious from email #1 that he knew our cars and was gung-ho
willing to make them performer even better by custom designing for our
applications.
Y'all please carry on and maybe I can just be amongst you as a customer. I
know other vehicles that I have added bars to have been worth every penny -
in fact, anti-sway bars are about the best return on investment I put into
my cars.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Quickor@xxxxxxx [mailto:Quickor@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:21 PM
To: WGraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: HD Bars for late '50s Chrysler
Mr. Graefen,
Thank you for your interest in Quickor Suspension.
Thank you for your interest in Quickor Suspension.
We would need a bit further information about the '57 C, but would certainly
be able to provide you with upgraded sway bars. Please call me at your
convenience.
For your '60 G, we offer an OEM styled replacement front sway bar for your
vehicle in 1.00", 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" diameter. The cost is $169.00 and
includes all hardware and polyurethane bushings required to install. If this
vehicle never had an OEM front bar, then we offer a pair of mounting
brackets for $39.00.
We offer an aftermarket style rear sway bar in 3/4" and 7/8" diameters for
$149.00. Again, all hardware and polyurethane bushings are provided. This
installation requires either drilling a bolt hole through the rear frame
rail (or welding) to mount an angle bracket.
May we please place your order? Please call us at 503/654-2175. We hope we
may be of assistance to you in the very near future.
Quickor Manufactures the best in suspension improvement equipment Anti-Sway
bars, Springs, Shocks and Polyurethane bushings.
Best Regards,
Mikey Bynum
Quickor Suspension
503/654-2175
Quickor@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:10:27 EST
From: veeech@xxxxxxx
Subject: (no subject)
I'm impressed with the response from all of you!!! what a great club!
John, new member/'63 300
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:18:39 -0600
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: possible 55-56 parts car
Hi Gang!
Have stumbled across a 55 DeSoto Firedome 2dr hdtp with no drive train. Should be some parts that will fit 55-56 300's. If enough are interested I will try and locate the owner to see about possible purchase for parting out what's left. All glass appears to be good. still has both doors. Dash is all butchered. Fenders at first glance seem to be straight but have the usual rust at the bottom.
Anyone interested please E-mail me privately
Dave Schwandt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:50:54 -0800
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: rebuilt GJC 7001 auto-lite generator
Anyone know what a GJC 7001 auto-lite generator fits. I finally got around to looking at the one that came on my C(after completely being rebuilt) and it was the incorrect generator. I have the correct one on now, but have the above 7001 ready for someone who needs it.
Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:51:57 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Chrysler 300 Parts - mostly 300E
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hertog" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Club Listverver" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: Chrysler 300 Parts - mostly 300E
Forwarding to the group as received . I know nothing more about it than
what you read. Please contact seller directly at barbara0416@xxxxxxxx !
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "BARBARA KITTELMAN" <>
To: <crossram.motors@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: Chrysler 300 Parts
To Whom It May Concern; or forward to interested persons:
Following is a list of miscellaneous parts for Chrysler 300E series & 59
Chrysler New Yorker plus parts as listed for other cars.
We would like to sell all items as one package. Please make offer. You
pickup- N0 mailing or COD.
Send e-mail to Barbara0416@xxxxxxxx We are located in the San Francisco
Bay area.
SUN SHADE- OVER WINDSHIELD 1950 CHEY
STEERING WHEEL COMPLETE - 53 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER
INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH 2 CARBURETORS - 55-58 CHRYSLER 300
HOOD FOR 57-58 OR 59 CHRYSLER 300
GRILLE 57 C WITH EMBLEM- NEEDS WORK
BUMPER 59-300E REAR
RADIATOR 59E CHRYSLER
2 NEW CARBURETOR AIR FILTERS 59E- ALSO 1 USED
1 CHAM SHAFT 59-300E
2 TAIL LIGHT UNITS COMPLETE- 1 WITHOUT LENS 59 CHRYSLER OR 300
DASH CHROME PARTS 59 E
OUTSIDE CHROME UNIT (VENT AND SPRAY HEADS) WINDSHIELD WASHER
DISTRIBUTOR 1962G WITH TACK DRIVE
2 RAM INTAKES FOR 1962G
DIP STICK 440 CHRYSLER
HEATER FAN/MOTOR 53 CHRYSLER
4 HEAD LIGHT UNITS COMPLETE 59-300E
DASH GRILLE FOR RADIO 59E
ACCORDION POWER BRAKE UNIT & VACUUM TANKS 59 300E
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR & ARMS 59 CHRYSLER
RADIO ANTENNA ELECTRIC 59 CHRYSLER
4 ARM RESTS(DOOR) 59E
CRUISE CONTROL PARTS ( NO SWITCHES) 50E
1 -2 DOOR VENT WINDOWS COMPLETE GREEN COLOR 59 CHRYSLER OR 300E
4 DOOR HANDLE 59E OUTSIDE
4 SPARK PLUG WIRE HOLDERS/ON VALVE COVERS
RADIO-MODEL / SER CF7520-042560
PARTS- FOOT CONTROL WINDSHIELD WASHER 59CHRYSLER
TRANSMISSION ROD FROM CARBURETOR 59E
1 CHROME PIECE FOR SIDE(FRONT FENDER) 59E
TURN SIGNAL ARM ( AT STEERING POST) 59
4 ELECTRIC MOTORS & SWITCHES 59 CHRYSLER DOOR WINDOWS
2 DOOR HANDLES 59E (OUTSIDE)
4 DASH LIGHTS ( HI BEANS 2 TURN SIGNALS - BRAKE (HI BEAMS - 2 TURN
SIGNALS & 1 EMERGENCY BRAKE)
1 FUSE BOX 59 CHRYSLER
1 SPEEDOMETER - 59 CHRYSLER
1 INSTRUMENT UNIT (AMP-WATER TEM-FUEL- OIL PRESS) FOR 59 NEW YORKER
1 CARBURETOR- USED 413 CU. IN. ENGINE
2 BACKUP LIGHTS 59 CHRYSLER
1 REAR VIEW MIRROR 59E
1 CIGARETTE LIGHTER UNIT- BEHIND SEAT- 59E
1 DASH CLOCK 59E
3 VACUUM UNITS- 59 CHRYSLER HEATER
4 PLASTIC BALLS 59E SWIVEL SEATS
2 SIDE DOME LIGHTS 59E
1 PUSH BUTTON UNIT ( TRANS - 4 BUTTON COMPLETE) 59E
1 PUSH BUTTON UNIT - 3 BUTTONS & 1 MISSING 59E
1 HEATER CONTROL(DASH UNIT WITH SWITCH) IGNITION SWITCH 59E
1 SIDE VENT WINDOW HANDLE 59E
1 DOOR LATCH & 2 POST LATCHES - 59E
1 WINDOW HANDLE 59E
1 WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR COMPLETE FOR UNDER DASH WITH ARM
1 DASH LIGHT & HEAD LIGHT SWITCH 59E
1 WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH 59E
1 TURN SIGNAL UNIT 59E
1 BACKUP LIGHT 59 CHRYSLER
1 GAS CAP 59E
3 PARKING LIGHTS LENS 59E CHRYSLER FOR FRONT OF CAR
1 300 EMBLEM-58C
1 300 EMBLEM HOLDER 58C
1 SIDE 300C EMBLEM COMPLETE 58C
1 SIDE 300C EMBLEM FRAME GOOD - UNIT WITH 300 NUMBER HAS 1 "O" MISSING
1 STARTER COMPLETE 59E
2 GENERATORS 59E CHRYSLER
1 SOLENOID FOR STARTER 59 CHRYSLER
4 NISSAN WHEEL COVERS 260Z
1 NISSAN INTAKE MANIFOLD & 2 CARBURETORS 260Z
2 HEAD LIGHT UNITS ( GAS WITH ELECTRIC) FOR EARLY MODEL 1900 CARS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:49:06 EST
From: jrcote56@xxxxxxx
Subject: Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
Many thanks to John Hertog for posting Sean's pics. As they say, a picture's
worth a thousand words.
My only question and comments are why did they have to use what appears to
be such a long male end to the driveshaft to fit into the long female portion
of the universal joint yoke end.
How long is the splinned portion of the shaft? Is there a certain lenght of
spline that's needed to handle torque? If it is not almost the entire length
of shaft, why don't they make the female yoke shorter?? (Hard to see where
the splines end on the pics). The inside of the old trunion has only about an
inch and a half of travel fore and aft.
I only ask this because instead of having the weight of the shaft supported
about 2 inches away from the tranny hook up, we now have what looks to be
about 6 to 8 inches (or more) distance from the tranny rear as the major
support area.
Could this be a source of a wear or failure problem with the long (and
heavy) shafts that are used on our full sized cars? (Many Imperials had two
shafts with center support.)
I'm interested in this as I had considered changing to this set-up also
before someone I spoke with brought up the concerns of support of the long
shaft extending further away from the tranny and if there is a balance
problem, this may enhance imbalance.
Are we still learning with this set-up?
Anyone have any long term experience with this set-up in both vibration and
wear & tear?
John Cote (too many B's & T's)
P.S. What do you say we get Don Cole and his "K" try it out at the
dragstrip (ala Spring Meet 2000 !!)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 07:50:37 -0500
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: G trunk floor replacement
Good morning,
I had ordered a replccement trunk floor in AZ for my G only to find out
that it too was rusty. John Hertog and Andy Mikonis have both been very
helpful and reasurring that '60 to '64 floors will interchange with
perhaps slight modifications. The person that I ordered the original
floor from says he has a '64, but he thinks they measure differently.
Has anyone out there put a non '61 floor into a '61 body? If so, do you
remember exactly what modifications needed to be be made to make it fit?
I do not actually need the entire floor and might be able to get away
with a patch.
My body man is ready right now, so I need to move forward.
Thanks for your help.
Richard Osborne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 10:45:47 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
A longer slip joint is vastly superior to a shorter one in terms of
stability, wear resistance and power transmitting capability. A longer
joint will have less wobble in it as it wears, keeping things in balance a
lot longer(probably indefinately with proper lubrication).
The shaft is still supported about the same distance away from the mounting
flange(at the u-joint), it just doesn't appear that way now with the extra
hardware to look at.As long as the shaft assy is straight and in balance,
the transmission shouldn't be affected at all.
Mike
At 12:49 PM 3/17/02 -0500, jrcote56@xxxxxxx wrote:
>Many thanks to John Hertog for posting Sean's pics. As they say, a picture's
>worth a thousand words.
> My only question and comments are why did they have to use what appears to
>be such a long male end to the driveshaft to fit into the long female portion
>of the universal joint yoke end.
>How long is the splinned portion of the shaft? Is there a certain lenght of
>spline that's needed to handle torque? If it is not almost the entire length
>of shaft, why don't they make the female yoke shorter?? (Hard to see where
>the splines end on the pics). The inside of the old trunion has only about an
>inch and a half of travel fore and aft.
>I only ask this because instead of having the weight of the shaft supported
>about 2 inches away from the tranny hook up, we now have what looks to be
>about 6 to 8 inches (or more) distance from the tranny rear as the major
>support area.
> Could this be a source of a wear or failure problem with the long (and
>heavy) shafts that are used on our full sized cars? (Many Imperials had two
>shafts with center support.)
>
>I'm interested in this as I had considered changing to this set-up also
>before someone I spoke with brought up the concerns of support of the long
>shaft extending further away from the tranny and if there is a balance
>problem, this may enhance imbalance.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:14:26 -0500
From: "langendorfer" <langendorfer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Changing sway bar bushings
When I got the thicker bar from Saner for my F, all the hardware was
included, including urethane bushings, so not drilling was required. (save
the old stuff, of course)
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: SADuggan@xxxxxxx <SADuggan@xxxxxxx>
To: CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Friday, March 15, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Changing sway bar bushings
>Hi Everyone,
> I see the subject of Swaybar has come up recently. I know that Addco
has
>a heavy duty swaybar for our cars, but I haven't tried one. They say it
come
>with all the parts to install it, just not the frame brackets. It's a 1"
bar.
>
> I wanted to see if anyone had a better way of changing the swaybar
>bushings. Changing the bushings in the frame brackets I had a hard time. At
>first I hope to be able to change them without undoing the weld, not
>happening. I drilled out the weld on the press with a 1/2" drill bit, then
>snaped out the bottom piece. I then pushed the new bushing up in there,
>clamped it, and filled in the hole with weld. As it goes with these things,
>the first one looks O.K., but the second one's much better.
>
> I have still yet to do the bushings on the brackets that clamp to the
>struts. Is there a better way to do this?
>
>Thanks,
>Sean Duggan
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 23:05:34 -0700
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN's an Body Plates
Law Enforcement View.....
Secondary vin locations are only checked during a stage 3 inspection if
required by DMV for some reason here in Montana. They indeed can show that a
vehicle is legit, but most states go by the vin plate itself and if it has
been removed, tampered with or missing you're in for a lot of grief. You
would be amazed how many people(both unwitting buyers and dumb thieves) do
not realize there are vin #s in more than one location on most vehicles for
decades.The secondary vin locations are great for catching thieves and for
documenting "matching #s" vehicles but for title and licensing purposes the
vin plate is what is used in all 50 states, PERIOD. Remember Buyer Beware!!
Joe Pierce
----- Original Message -----
From: "RON KURTZ" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
"Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] VIN's an Body Plates
> Hello, everyone:
>
> What about the serial number imprint on the frame? Can this help establish
> the authenticity of the vehicle?
>
> Regards,
> Ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kelly Pierce <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; PaddyCaddy . <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 7:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] VIN's an Body Plates
>
>
> > Greetings Group!
> > As A Law Enforcement Officer I have to add my nickels worth on this
> > debate. Some states it is flat illegal to tamper w/ a vin or vin plate
in
> > any way! If it falls of due to age, rust, poor weld at the factory(we
have
> > all seen the aforementioned) Leave it alone and go to your M.V. dept and
> get
> > a vin inspection form and follow it's instructions. Here it is free to
> have
> > a vin insp. done by a Law Enforcement officer I don't know about other
> > states. It may affect the value of your car if the vin plate is loose
and
> > not attached but far lessthan having MV give the car an assigned vin.
And
> > yes we do catch people trying to clone cars, re-body etc. The stupidity
of
> > some thieves is exceeded only by their willingness to go to prison (and
> > greed, laziness etc) for this kind of activity.
> > In ALL CASES- LEAVE THE VIN PLATE ALONE!
> > Joe Pierce, Court Security and Transport Officer, Yellowstone
County
> > Sheriffs Office, Billings, Montana
> > P.S. Do yourself a favor and don't ask a Officer to verify something
> with
> > out your states' proper paper work for him to sign as it leaves him in a
> > liability situation if you don't!----- Original Message -----
> > From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 10:42 PM
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] VIN's an Body Plates
> >
> >
> > > Having been in the old car businees for close to 2 decades now, I can
at
> > > least recommend the following....
> > >
> > > If at all possible, never screw with VIN plates - or even body plates
> > (much
> > > more common). No matter how exacting you are with your paint jobs !
> > >
> > > Selling a clone car with a shifty body plate might be overlooked by
most
> > law
> > > enforcement agencies - but a VIN with shifty looking rivets will get
you
> > > into far more trouble than it is worth. There are many old car nuts
in
> > the
> > > police department ! Believe it ! And with the internet thankfully
> > > providing them with all the information they need......well, I guess
> you
> > > get my point.
> > >
> > > Although I do not speak from experience, I have been approached by
> > countless
> > > folks who quite obviously have bought a "hot" car and ask me the very
> same
> > > questions (although they usually want to know where to find new door
and
> > > ignition tumblers at the same time...) !
> > >
> > > I am not accusing you - a fellow club member - of the same. I'm only
> > > warning you to be VERY CAREFUL if you want to pursue this detail in yo
ur
> > > restoration. Have you considered having a member of the law
> enforcement
> > > community inspect and photograph your car before you make such changes
> ???
> > >
> > > Sean.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:36:14 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Ball and Trunion (B&T) conversion
the slip joint in the drive shaft is a stock p/up truck item and it
needs to be that long for stability...
JEFF
tucson az.
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:59:26 -0500
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '57 Cont top switch
Hello & happy monday. Finally warm in Atlanta! -though the darn 'squiters are already biting.
I wondered if the convertible top switch from a '57 Imperial was the same used in the 300 & other models? I haven't found an Imperial cross reference listed, so I thought I'd double-check.
Thanks & have a great week.
mike v
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:38:34 -0500
From: "M. Vannice" <mavche@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spring Meet
>
>Hi Everyone,
> I need a ride to the Spring Meet in Newport because I have to drive
> home the F that John Hertog has restored for me. Would anyone happen to
> be going through PA on I-80 or going by State College in some way on
> their way to the meet, preferably on Thursday, May 9th, and have room for
> a passenger other than in the trunk? I'd be happy to pay for gas from my
> home to RI, and if you wanted a place to stay Wednesday evening, I could
> offer a nice room and a bed. It should be a comfortable 6-8 hour drive
> from my place, which is just 12 miles south of I-80 at the Bellefonte
> exit, to Newport, RI.
>Regards,
>Al
>
>Prof. M. A. Vannice
>107 Fenske Lab
>Pennsylvania State University
>University Park, PA 16802
>
>Phone: 814-863-4803
>Fax: 814-865-7846
Prof. M. A. Vannice
107 Fenske Lab
Pennsylvania State University
University Park, PA 16802
Phone: 814-863-4803
Fax: 814-865-7846
________________________________________________________________________
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