[Chrysler300] Digest Number 242
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 242



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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Some kind of Autocross on I40
           From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Fw: My 300F
           From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Re: Carb Cleaners
           From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
      4. Re: Some kind of Autocross on I40
           From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Avoid fast tours through Arizona
           From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Re: Carb Cleaners
           From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:57:44 -0400
   From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Some kind of Autocross on I40

"One Lap of America" starts this Friday.  They may be heading east for
that one.  http://www.onelapofamerica.com/

-Dave Stragand


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Message: 2
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:14:15 -0500
   From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: My 300F


I am forwarding this email to the 300 Club at the request of Jim McMullen.
He is unable to access the listserver.

Mark Schueller
300F

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jim McMullan 
To: Mark Schueller 
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: My 300F


Mark some thoughts.When I was in the Air Force working as a recip engine
mechanic we used a devise called a time-right. It had a lever that went
through one of the spark plug holes and was bent to hang over the
piston.It had a fulcrum point at the plug boss and the lever on the
outside next to a scale (protractor).Whit this devise we could always find
T.D.C.of the compression stroke.It would be pretty simple to make one.Also
I have a old Hemmy manual that suggests that you ground every other spark
plug in the firing order.Disconect the vacuum line and plug,start the
engine and let it warm up,advance the timing (at idle or as close as you
can get) until the engine quits.Mark the distributor base at the block.Do
the same thing Retarding the timing an mark it.Set the dist. 1/2 way
between the 2 marks and lock it down.You will have timed to best
performance for the fuel you are using and your altitude.Please forward
this message to the list server as I cant get through to it. Jim McMullan
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mark Schueller 
  To: Jim McMullen;Karl Peterson;John Roth;Geprge Riehl;Warren
Anderson;Joe Savard;Pat Grant;Dave Grove
  Sent: 4/28/2002 8:54:25 AM 
  Subject: My 300F




  Dear Jim, Karl, John, George, Warren, Joe, Pat & Dave:

  My car is running much better thanks to your help. I really appreciate
all your ideas and the time you took to send them to me.

  I went through the carbs, adjusted the floats, reinstalled the 824 pumps
as recommended by George Riehl, and adjusted the pumps stroke to 7/16" in
the center linkage hole. The float settings were off more than expected in
one of the carbs. No one to blame but me for that problem.

  Dave Grove suggested I installed a new fuel pump so I installed a NAPA
M3672. The rubber "fuel in" hose matched up nicely but the "fuel out" did
not. I saved the original fuel out piping between the pump and the fuel
filter and bent a new one. It was easy to do with a 5/16" pipe bender.
When I started the engine fuel squirted out the rubber fuel filter hoses
because of the higher fuel pressure. I eagerly replaced the spring type
hose clamps with screw down hose clamps. The leaks stopped and I knew fuel
pressure was good.

  Performance improved but it still wasn't good. Many of you suggested
possible engine timing problems. Vacuum advance (retard) and centrifugal
advance concerns were mentioned. The vacuum advance "suck" test worked
with the advance snapping back sharply when vacuum was released. Dave
Grove suggested that the damper timing mark could be in the wrong place.
He had seen this many times before ... I had never seen this before. I
decided to do some experimenting.

  I started advancing the timing by hand one small tweak at a time. Just
in case, I first marked the original spot where the distributor meets the
block with "white out". Performance improved with each minor adjustment in
the advance direction. The car now leaps off the line and performs much
more like it should. I still get an occasional hesitation but no more
backfiring. What fun! All these years I thought engine timing was correct.
Live and learn.

  Now I don't know where to stop with my tweaking. I don't want to go too
far and hurt the engine. The engine is not pinging. Is there any way to
tell top dead center on the engine without removing the front timing cover
so the engine can be timed with a light. Pulling #1 spark plug and finding
the compression stroke will get me close but I'd like to be exact so a
timing light can be used.

  Any way, I'm a happy 300F motorist. Thank you all again for your helpful
suggestions. This summer will be much better with my new high performance
300F.

  Sincerely,

  Mark A. Schueller


---  
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 3
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:22:06 EDT
   From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Carb Cleaners

On the subject of carb cleaning.........I can get a carb squeaky clean and
it 
still looks awful.  Those of you who show your cars, what do you do?  Can
a 
carb be polished somehow?  Judges --- is painting a carb a no-no?

George


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 4
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:28:23 -0700
   From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Some kind of Autocross on I40

You probably saw participants in the Copperstate 1000. The run starts in
Phoenix and ends back in Phoenix after 1000 miles of touring AZ. Do a
Google
search and there are some nice photos and details (Phoenix Art Museum
sponsored event).

The Copperstate has come to Sedona for an overnight every year that I know
of. They now stop out at Enchantment Resort which is out of town in a
scenic
canyon behind locked gates. I did by chance catch at least three open race
cars quartered (in far less costly accomodations) up on Airport Mesa. The
Copperstate and the defunct Governor's Cup Ralley have both used Sedona as
an overnight. The sighting on I-40 was probably the return leg from the
Grand Canyon.

I have never seen a Chrysler in the Copperstate. I will definately be more
attentive next year.

Once apon a time, the Copperstate was escorted by Highway Patrol units.
Supposedly, at that time, the DPS escort units would not ticket
participants
for speed. Traffic allowing, some were said to be running together well
over
100. That would be hoot; million dollar + cars at 100 plus on state
highways. Never saw that.

Warren Anderson
Sedona, AZ



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Message: 5
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:24:21 -0700
   From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Avoid fast tours through Arizona

Cannonball Run:

Seems the run cars are in Arizona. Just heard AZ DPS ATL (attempt to
locate)
over the scanner for Cannonball run cars as some (mentioned Cobras,
Corvettes) have been stopped and drivers arrested and they are warning
officers in the next district to be on the lookout. Bail was posted.

Guess it is hard to have a good time in your fast car in AZ these days.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ



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Message: 6
   Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:31:50 -0400
   From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Carb Cleaners

Most carbs done by professional rebuilders are grit blasted to obtain that

"like new" look. This works especially well on aluminium carbs like the 
AFB's used in '59 and up Chryslers. However, the carb must be completely 
disassembled including throttle shafts, jets, metering clusters, down to
the 
last screw. All threaded holes and throttle shaft bores must be proteceted

from the high pressure grit. The blasting will remove fuel stains and the 
white corrosion in the float bowls. The addition of a set of reproduction 
tags will make the carb will look like a new one.  LGJ


>From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
>To: langendorfer@xxxxxxxxx, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Carb Cleaners
>Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:22:06 EDT
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>
>On the subject of carb cleaning.........I can get a carb squeaky clean
and 
>it
>still looks awful.  Those of you who show your cars, what do you do?  Can
a
>carb be polished somehow?  Judges --- is painting a carb a no-no?
>
>George
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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