[Chrysler300] Digest Number 364
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 364



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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Brake Drum size for a 64 300/300K
           From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
      2. 300 Parts Hauler For Sale
           From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
      3. engine basics - ignition help needed
           From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Brake Drum size for a 64 300/300K
           From: crash5194@xxxxxxx
      5. For Sale 68 Chrysler 300
           From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: engine basics - ignition help needed
           From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: engine basics - ignition help needed
           From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Headlights
           From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. finally got a new computer
           From: legbrkar@xxxxxxx


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 04:04:17 -0700 (PDT)
   From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Drum size for a 64 300/300K

What size brake drums were on a 64 300/300K?  I need to look for some but
don't know the size and haven't yet pulled one off to measure.

Thanks
Dave Moore

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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 07:18:11 -0700
   From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 Parts Hauler For Sale

Hi All,
  I've reduced the price of my 69 Town & Country wagon to $3,600. If
anyone is interested, contact me privately. Pictures can be seen at
http://www.crossrams.com/verity/wagon.html 

and the ad text can be seen at http://stationwagon.com/, go to Mopar and
look for 69 Town and Country. 
300ly,
    Don


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:23:41 -0400
   From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: engine basics - ignition help needed

Looking for help with Engine Starting 101. Your charity very much
appreciated.. 

The rebuilt 392 hemi has been installed, plumbed and adjusted in the C.
Try as I may, I can't get it started. It turns-over nicely.  Seems like
its gotta (?) be a timing issue, as there's spark and gas flow. If I
describe the status, maybe someone out there can tell me what I'm
missing??    Please help a dummy out!

Just the facts:
TDC/timing hashmarks on damper are a good 1/4 crank turn different that
TDC of cylinder #1 (driver-side front). This was determined by using a
chopstick inserted into the sparkplug hole while turning crank (wife was
excited about her bright idea).
Distributor/oil pump gear set accordingly to point to #1 distributor cap
terminal - which is almost straight-forward towards the front of the car.

As there's no wiring harness yet installed, the coil hot+ wire is run from
the pos. batt. terminal, through a ceramic resistor. Distributor (removed
from a running car) has petronix conversion installed; red wire to pos+
coil and black wire to neg- coil.  Engine is then turned by jumping
terminals at the starter/solenoid relay. Brand-new battery has lots of
juice.

When the engine is turned, gas is flowing. (Verified gas smell on
freshly-gapped spark plugs). New plug wires, cap, rotor and coil.   I got
several fiery pops through the exhaust manifolds but nothing close to
starting. I tried pivoting the distributor body from one extreme to
another.  I moved the distributor/oil pump gear one tooth at a time
towards the factory damper hasmarks and promptly got an unhealthy-looking
pop of flame up through the secondary carburetor on the 3rd move.

Figured I'd call it quits then & there and cry for help.  The neighborhood
kids were thrilled by the flame ball in the dark driveway, but
disappointed at the lack of success -- as was I.

What pearl of basic knowledge am I missing?     Many thanks.  mike v



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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:00:47 EDT
   From: crash5194@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Drum size for a 64 300/300K

       Fronts were 3'" x 11" and rears are 2 1/2" x 11".

       Crash


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:16:20 -0700
   From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For Sale 68 Chrysler 300




This beautiful 300 is all original except for the paint job. A clear # 3
it 
won't take much to make it a # 2. meticulously cared for, always garaged 
this 300 can be had for only $9000.00, OBO. I have all receipts, and am
only 
the second owner.  Email me for more pictures and any questions you may 
have. Chuck






_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:39:14 -0700
   From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: engine basics - ignition help needed

If your ignition and cam timing are all verified and you have fuel and 
spark, your next step is to check the compression. What can easily happen 
(especially with a new engine that you're trying to fire) is the fuel
washes 
down the cylinder walls and removes the oil that seals the rings. Check
your 
compression.......if its low, squirt some oil in the cylinders and check
the 
compression again. Hopefully that is your problem and you'll be listening
to 
your engine purr soon.

Good Luck, Ryan



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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 20:15:38 -0500
   From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: engine basics - ignition help needed

Starting 101:
Start with the basics! Compression, fuel, timely spark...gotta run.
Check your plug wires one by one and make sure they're going to the right
cyl from the correct dist tower. I've seen many excited "it's gonna run"
guys wire the dist backwards, so check the wires by the firing order
(watch
the rotor for the correct direction of the firing order).
You mentioned a dark driveway. Uncover the plug wires and crank it in the
dark and see if there's any leakage, spark going to ground through the
wires
and not getting to the plugs.
If that's ok, check several plugs while cranking to see if they are
actually
sparking.
Forget the timing mark for now, the chopstick is a valid tool. But
remember,
that'll give you TDC twice for each cycle. Make sure TDC is after the
intake
valve closes, and not after the exhaust! You may be 180 out of the firing
order.

Ain't it fun??? Ray Jones

> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:23:41 -0400
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Cc: "'Scredicat@xxxxxxx'" <Scredicat@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] engine basics - ignition help needed
> 
> Looking for help with Engine Starting 101. Your charity very much
> appreciated.. 
> 
> The rebuilt 392 hemi has been installed, plumbed and adjusted in the C.
Try as
> I may, I can't get it started. It turns-over nicely.  Seems like its
gotta (?)
> be a timing issue, as there's spark and gas flow. If I describe the
status,
> maybe someone out there can tell me what I'm missing??    Please help a
dummy
> out!
> 
> Just the facts:
> TDC/timing hashmarks on damper are a good 1/4 crank turn different that
TDC of
> cylinder #1 (driver-side front). This was determined by using a
chopstick
> inserted into the sparkplug hole while turning crank (wife was excited
about
> her bright idea).
> Distributor/oil pump gear set accordingly to point to #1 distributor cap
> terminal - which is almost straight-forward towards the front of the
car.
> 
> As there's no wiring harness yet installed, the coil hot+ wire is run
from the
> pos. batt. terminal, through a ceramic resistor. Distributor (removed
from a
> running car) has petronix conversion installed; red wire to pos+ coil
and
> black wire to neg- coil.  Engine is then turned by jumping terminals at
the
> starter/solenoid relay. Brand-new battery has lots of juice.
> 
> When the engine is turned, gas is flowing. (Verified gas smell on
> freshly-gapped spark plugs). New plug wires, cap, rotor and coil.   I
got
> several fiery pops through the exhaust manifolds but nothing close to
> starting. I tried pivoting the distributor body from one extreme to
another.
> I moved the distributor/oil pump gear one tooth at a time towards the
factory
> damper hasmarks and promptly got an unhealthy-looking pop of flame up
through
> the secondary carburetor on the 3rd move.
> 
> Figured I'd call it quits then & there and cry for help.  The
neighborhood
> kids were thrilled by the flame ball in the dark driveway, but
disappointed at
> the lack of success -- as was I.
> 
> What pearl of basic knowledge am I missing?     Many thanks.  mike v
> 
> 
> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> 
> 
> 



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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 23:18:23 -0400
   From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Headlights

Hi folks --
Getting darker earlier as we move into September and look to address a
problem with the headlights.   Parking lights work fine, hi-beams cut a
super bright path but no headlights - zip, none whatsoever (yet they are
lit when the hi-beams are on , also noticed parking lights lit only when
switch is 1/2 way out -- not on when switch is pulled out completely). 
Thus, with the light switch completely pulled out, there are no front
lights at all unless the hi-beam floor switch is activated. Can't blind
fellow drivers much longer as we did this evening on the way home from a
nice local car cruise. Any suggestions on the likely culprit? 

Regards
Myles - 300G   

http://www.nauticom.net


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Message: 9
   Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 01:00:39 EDT
   From: legbrkar@xxxxxxx
Subject: finally got a new computer

so now i can finally responed to you.....keep those emails coming curt



                                                        mundo


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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