[Chrysler300] Digest Number 470
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 470



Title: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 470

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Car Lifts
           From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
      2. RE: Car Lifts
           From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. One day whilst browsing..........
           From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Interior rubber question
           From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
      5. Re: One day whilst browsing..........
           From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Idler Arm  rebuild
           From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Car Lifts
           From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
      8. pushbutton
           From: Phil Greenfeld <pgreen413@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: starter drive
           From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
     10. Re: One day whilst browsing..........
           From: c300c@xxxxxxx
     11. Lifts
           From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Lifts Again
           From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. interiors
           From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:00:57 -0500
   From: "Jess" <jdmiklas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Lifts

I have two four post lifts, both about 1 year old - one is the Eagle SS
7000, the other is a Cytech "Double Park". When shopping I  learned that all
these types of lifts are basically the same and are all based on the Eagle
unit (Many different named lifts ARE Eagle units with different decals)
EXCEPT for the Backyard Buddy which is indeed in a different league.

The differences are in quality. The Cytech unit has basically the same ramps
but with a little more lateral support. The ram and cylinder and the cables
are larger (read heavier duty) The post supports are designed slightly
different to avoid a hand injury with the ramps in motion etc. The hydraulic
motor had a slightly higher rating etc. This added up to a $400.00
difference in price.

For hobbyist use, the Eagle unit is plenty I think. For $2895.00 you get the
unit with a set of ramps, free choice of 110 or 220, a free upgrade to
aluminum ramps(aluminum is nice but they DO sag), powder coating and free
delivery. I unloaded the packaged units from the delivery truck with a fork
truck, but the driver said many folks simply open the package in the truck
and unload it piece by piece(a 30 minute job). Both units were easy to
assemble. My wife and I did the Cytech first - reading the directions and
using a floor jack - took about 4 hours. The Eagle unit took two hours since
I didn't need to read the directions again.

In my opinion, the "Perfect Park" you mentioned is very low end of scale -
Stay away from this brand.

Get the wide sliding jack tray.
The 220 powered unit is faster, but not twice as fast.

The Backyard Buddy unit is probably a better choice if using it for more
than hobby use. The ramps are SUBSTANTIALLY heavier duty . I originally
wanted one of these but it is over $1000.00 more delivered and I couldn't
get anyone to sell me one. At the time their web page was useless, the
salesmen couldn't agree on a final price (read commission conflicts) and
they couldn't give me a delivery date. (Got each of my lifts within 5 days
of order)

Good Luck

Jeff Miklas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Warrener" <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 11:25 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Car Lifts


> Does anyone have any suggestions / experience / recommendations on 4 post
> car lifts?  I'm looking at Lifts Unlimited Perfect Park 7000, Eagle
> Equipment SS-7000 and Greg Smith Equipmert Pro Park 7. What options /
> accessories are necessary or desirable ? Is there a major advantage of a
> 220v power unit over a 110v unit. Thanks in advance for your input.  Doug
> Warrener.
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
>



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Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:24:29 -0800
   From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Car Lifts

When cars are stored on jack stands the jack stands are usually placed under
the suspension not the frame or body. This takes the weight off the tires
and axle bearings but leaves the suspension loaded.

Ryan





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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 11:12:02 +1300
   From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: One day whilst browsing..........


Er.....choke !!!

What do I see ?? scarcely believeable........but true !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=728181380

Isn't daylight robbery a crime in the good ol' USA??    ??

Or.....New T/Flite shift cable for your F or G.....anyone?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=729728582


And......decals for your F,  folks......

Hmmmm, I suggest Gary Goers for decals. Add up his prices for this lot if you have his catalog, and have a night out on the savings. Plus, my F, nor any engine bay of one I've ever seen has Golden Lion valve cover decals. New Yorkers do though.  And just $6 for p&p in the US.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136812745

Are nos parts at an all time mad high when the economy is in some trouble?  Seems that way to me.

                      Dave in NZ.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:29:13 EST
   From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Interior rubber question

Hello all, I recently bought a good used "rim blow" horn switch.  What would
be the best chemical to make the rubber stay soft and squeezable for a long
time?  (Sounds like a "Charmin" commercial.)  I know that Armor-All is out of
the question.  Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks in advance!  John


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 5
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:25:31 -0600
   From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: One day whilst browsing..........

It's more of a case for "I gots it and you wants it". But, I don't think
they'll sell this lot.
Ray

> From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 11:12:02 +1300
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] One day whilst browsing..........
>
>
> Er.....choke !!!
>
> What do I see ?? scarcely believeable........but true !
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=728181380
>
> Isn't daylight robbery a crime in the good ol' USA??    ??
>
> Or.....New T/Flite shift cable for your F or G.....anyone?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=729728582
>
>
> And......decals for your F,  folks......
>
> Hmmmm, I suggest Gary Goers for decals. Add up his prices for this lot if you
> have his catalog, and have a night out on the savings. Plus, my F, nor any
> engine bay of one I've ever seen has Golden Lion valve cover decals. New
> Yorkers do though.  And just $6 for p&p in the US.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136812745
>
> Are nos parts at an all time mad high when the economy is in some trouble?
> Seems that way to me.
>
> Dave in NZ.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:22:50 -0500
   From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idler Arm  rebuild

Hi Hardy,

There are, indeed, rebuild kits for idler arms that use ball bearings
instead of the cheap, crappy rubber and metal insert original design.  I
have used a couple of these kits ot rebuild my idler arms, and I do believe
that they are eminently superior to the original setup.  Yes, of course,
they are  concours-incorrect... and, if you care about that, then an
original-style rebuild kit is the way to go .  Contact Rare Parts at 1 800
621-2005, they probably have what you need, or can rebuild your idler arm as
per your requirements .  Or any front end component of your car, for that
matter.

John




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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:02:24 -0600
   From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Lifts

The problem with storing a car with the wheels hanging in the suspension
is that if there are travel limiters (rubber snubbers) used they will at
a minimum be squashed flat and at the worst be ruptured into pieces.  If
you don't want to replace the snubbers then keep all spring weight from
them.  Jack stands under a solid axle keeps suspension fully loaded.
Stands under independent suspension partially unloads it.  Ideal storage
in my mind.

Marshall

On Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:06:53 -0800 (PST) moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> why not on the lift? many store cars on jack stands.
>
>
> --- "D'Aloise, Lawrence Jr." <ldaloise@xxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> >. Also, I've been tpol that it's not a good
> > idea to store a car on
> > lift because the suspension may be damaged if the
> > tires are left to dangle.
> > I ordered an asymetrical lift when I got my 4-post,
> > but than exchangwd it
> > for another 4-post which better suits my purposes. 
>
>
> =====
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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Message: 8
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:51:26 -0800
   From: Phil Greenfeld <pgreen413@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: pushbutton

Does anyone out there in 300land have or know of a set of pushbuttons
for
a 1964 300. The complete set-up is wanted to hook the cables right up!
If anyone can help, I would appreciate this.
Thanks,
Phil



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Message: 9
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:01:52 -0600
   From: Lindsey Fiuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: starter drive

Ben Meisner wrote:

>I recently had to buy a new starter . I got it from Wilson electric, Winnipeg, Manitoba , Canada . Now that may all sound foreign , they are a very large company and their part number for a 1959 -E special starter for high performance MD-2-d-500, md-3MS-1 and MS-3 is 91-06-1834 . their area code is 204 . I only have the Chyrsler parts book for late 58 -59 and it shows that starter as new addition part number 1889-200 If you can get the old Chrysler part number ,I'm sure they will sell you a new one, or will re build in Canadian funds. I paid $ 321.00 for a new starter , which translates into $ 192.60  US. the freight is cheap heading south . I'm in a province about 3,000 miles away cost 18.00 dollars . need help E-mail me.

>
>Ben Meisner
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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>
>
>

>
living in winnipeg, i have used a number of their rebuilt parts & can
vouch for the quality. do voltage regulators & many other things.
lindsey fuller



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Message: 10
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 20:32:04 EST
   From: c300c@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: One day whilst browsing..........

In a message dated 12/12/02 5:20:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx writes:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=728181380
>
>
Hi Dave!

I hope no one is that nutz!

300'ly, your ole buddy, Gary Hagy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:09:31 -0800
   From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lifts

I've had my Western 7000# asymmetrical lift for 12 years now and couldn't be happier with it.  It is a 2 post lift with the overhead connection that allows for a free working area under the car.  This is the only way to go if your main reason in getting a lift is to use it to work on vehicles, not storage.  The drive-on lifts (4 post) take up much more floor space, you can't work on the wheels, tires, brakes, or suspension because they support the car and don't hang free.  Also, I use my lift to pull engines by swinging the arms together and looping the engine lift chain over the arms and raising, works great!  When restoring my '51 Chrysler, I used my asymmetrical lift to raise the body off and place it back on frame. Try and do that with a drive-on lift!  Cost was about $3,100.00 delivered and installed.

Bob J

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:16:44 -0800
   From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lifts Again

Lawrence Jr said:

<Since only 2 posts support the weight of the lift & car, a hi-pressure concrete floor is
a must>

I'm not sure where you heard this, but it simply is not true.  My lift is installed on a standard 4"-5" (approx) slab with rebar,  and I have no cracks or damage to the concrete after 12 years of use.  I spoke with the mfr before I poured the slab and there was no mention of "hi-pressure" concrete.  The footpads are good size and distribute the load well.

Bob J

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 13
   Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:25:51 -0800
   From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: interiors

Help Please. Are the bucket seats for a 1959 e unique to that year or were these same buckets used during any other period. I realize there was a lion on the upholstery , minus that are any years the same.

Many thanks
Meisner


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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