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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Raise the value of your 300H
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Raise the value of your 300H
From: "Brian Hagen" <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Virginia Chrysler Classic
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
4. Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Anyone a clock repairman?
From: Ulf Larsson <ulf.larsson@xxxxxxxx>
6. Oh no! Whats happened !
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Anyone a clock repairman?
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. '62 300 with factory SUN ROOF 4 sale
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. '57-8 Dash pads
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Fw: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
14. Hurst to go
From: "Dou Boilard" <dou4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. need parts
From: "Stan Baker" <sbaker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Oh no! Whats happened !
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 07:38:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Raise the value of your 300H
Hi All,
Ever notice 300H's for sale, whose ads state they were
"featured in the Chrysler 300 Club News" bring higher
prices?
Well, me neither, but we need some 300H stories! So
far we have... let's see...NONE. We need a few, or
the F and G owners will make you guys look bad. You
all write the Club News, not me. Please share your
300H with us, tell us why you bought it, how you found
it, tales of restoring it... or plans for restoring
it, and/or adventures you've had with it. Have a good
300H tech tip, restoration advice, or interesting
documentation? Send it in, I'd love to get more
restoration stuff for the Club News.
You have one month, please let me know soon if you can
send something. Or else I will start picking on you
individually.
Andy Mikonis, Editor
r41hp@xxxxxxxxx
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:00:49 -0400
From: "Brian Hagen" <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Raise the value of your 300H
Id write one but all i have is a lowly 62 300 4door.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Mikonis" <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:38 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Raise the value of your 300H
> Hi All,
>
> Ever notice 300H's for sale, whose ads state they were
> "featured in the Chrysler 300 Club News" bring higher
> prices?
>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 12:41:08 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Virginia Chrysler Classic
Hi, Randy,
I'll be in Penn. and Va. the next few weeks. Am planning on going to the
Hershey car show (anybody showing their cars there?) unless the recent knee
surgery makes walking a big car show an impossibility. Then a visit to an
drag strip might sound better. Any letter cars to be there?
George Clineman
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 05:14:24 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
----- Original Message -----
From: Owen & Jo Grigg
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 6:27 PM
Subject: Oh no! Whats happened !
Hi all
I just got my front brake drums for my '57 C back from getting coated in high temp semi black. Previously they had been lightly machined (very little taken off to clean them up) and the shoes arced to the drums etc. Now I go to install my wheel bearing cones, and they just about push in by hand and rattle around like false teeth in the housing when fully installed, both inner and outer on the one side and outer on the other! Tried other cones to make sure, it's definitely the drums. Checked thoroughly for any visible cracks
Could they have distorted the drums,heating or cooling them down when putting on this high temp coating.......please, please, please tell me this hasn't happened, they were perfect drums :-(
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:56:19 +0200
From: Ulf Larsson <ulf.larsson@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Anyone a clock repairman?
Hey everybody,
As autum comes around quickly now up here in the north(Scandinavia) I
started to dig into the long, long list of what to do until the driving
season returns(6 months of driving and equal in the garage up here!?. Which
is the most fun and which will tear the most on your economy?).
Anyway, back to all those details. The clock never did work in my car
since I bought it and I find it rather anoying. Better get to it. Checked
the cable for power (which isn´t that obvious when former owners of old cars
often made some "contributions" along the way), but sorry it wasn´t that
simple.
Took the clock out and wired it direct to power with the same lousy result,
it just wouldn´t "tick". Dis assembled the whole thing and cleaned it
from a lot of dust and particals(sand). Added some oil and made a little
"bending here and there".
Then put it together again and then wired to power. And look what happened;
Clock started immy but like a young horse out for the very first time it
went crazy. Clock is moving more than twice the accurate speed! Sorry for
taking up so much of the listserver space because here is the actual
question (seemed a bit naked just to put this one out for you):
How can one adjust the clock speed? (300-C). Maybe I overdid some of my
"bending here and there", but I think it can be again reversed.
rgds
Ulf Larsson (Big black brute, Sweden)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:27:54 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oh no! Whats happened !
Hi all
I just got my front brake drums for my '57 C back from getting coated in high temp semi black. Previously they had been lightly machined (very little taken off to clean them up) and the shoes arced to the drums etc. Now I go to install my wheel bearing cones, and on one drum they just about push in by hand and rattle around like false teeth in the housing when fully installed, both inner and outer on the one side! Tried other cones to make sure, it's definitely the drum.
Could they have distorted the drum,heating it to put this high temp coating.......please, please, please tell me this hasn't happened, they were perfect drums :-(
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 15:46:28 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oh no! Whats happened !
Owen,
I used to work for a guy who ran a fleet of big rigs, and we used to
salvage drive axel hubs that had had the wheel bearing races come loose.He
would build up the bearing mounting surface with a torch& brass rod, take
take it down to the local machine shop to have the holes turned out to the
right diameter.Sometimes the heating process would actually shrink the
hole, so that most of the brass material would end up on the floor under
the lathe.I'm sure this would cost some bucks, I don't know how hard '57
drums are to find these days.Perhaps you could have them machined for a
pressed-in steel sleeve that could be bored to suit the bearing races.I
guess it all boils down to what you want to spend.
Mike
At 06:27 PM 10/1/01 +1200, Owen & Jo Grigg wrote:
>Hi all
>I just got my front brake drums for my '57 C back from getting coated in
>high temp semi black. Previously they had been lightly machined (very
>little taken off to clean them up) and the shoes arced to the drums etc.
>Now I go to install my wheel bearing cones, and on one drum they just
>about push in by hand and rattle around like false teeth in the housing
>when fully installed, both inner and outer on the one side! Tried other
>cones to make sure, it's definitely the drum.
>Could they have distorted the drum,heating it to put this high temp
>coating.......please, please, please tell me this hasn't happened, they
>were perfect drums :-(
>
>Owen
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 11:21:08 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
I think Warren has hit the nail on the head!Thanks for all the help.
Owen
> I would not think that what might be considered to be a stress relieve
heat
> treat process would cause bearing bores to go oversize. I have seen many
> incidents of oversize bearing bores. These were the result of overheated
> bearings. The cups had gotten so hot that they had lost their press fit to
> the hub and had spun in the hubs. There was a wear pattern. I have never
> thought that only heat will cause the bearing bores to go oversize but is
> the result of the combining effects of heat and loading (stress) on the
> bearing and hub. I would speculate that just maybe your hubs were
oversized
> before the finishing process and that just maybe the heat destroyed the
> material someone before you used to fit the cups to the hub.
>
> I have used two materials to repair worn hubs where the damage has not
been
> severe. Press fit strength can be restored to a satisfactory level with
> Loctite #640 sleeve retainer. I have also used Loctite #66040 Quick Metal
in
> a couple of cases that I remember where the damage to the bore was more
> severe.
>
>> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
>
>
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:10:46 EDT
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
If the fit is only loose by .001" you may be able to use Green Loctite or an
equivalant "Flange Sealant". Talk to an older machinist. I don't see how it
could be any more than that from applying a coating unless there was a
previous condition that you missed. I would be more worried about surface
hardness if the high temp coating process caused this problem. Let us know
who did this job so we can avoid this on other cars.
Brian W.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 16:12:26 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Anyone a clock repairman?
Ulf,
The time keeping mechanism on old american clocks is adjusted by setting
the time.
Moving the hands ahead speeds up the works , and setting the time (hands)
back slows it down.
Try resetting the time , about the same time each day, for several days in
a row -that may do it.
Mike, in Idaho
At 08:56 AM 10/1/01 +0200, Ulf Larsson wrote:
>Hey everybody,
>
>As autum comes around quickly now up here in the north(Scandinavia) I
>started to dig into the long, long list of what to do until the driving
>season returns(6 months of driving and equal in the garage up here!?. Which
>is the most fun and which will tear the most on your economy?).
>Anyway, back to all those details. The clock never did work in my car
>since I bought it and I find it rather anoying. Better get to it. Checked
>the cable for power (which isn´t that obvious when former owners of old cars
>often made some "contributions" along the way), but sorry it wasn´t that
>simple.
>Took the clock out and wired it direct to power with the same lousy result,
>it just wouldn´t "tick". Dis assembled the whole thing and cleaned it
>from a lot of dust and particals(sand). Added some oil and made a little
>"bending here and there".
>Then put it together again and then wired to power. And look what happened;
>Clock started immy but like a young horse out for the very first time it
>went crazy. Clock is moving more than twice the accurate speed! Sorry for
>taking up so much of the listserver space because here is the actual
>question (seemed a bit naked just to put this one out for you):
>
>How can one adjust the clock speed? (300-C). Maybe I overdid some of my
>"bending here and there", but I think it can be again reversed.
>
>rgds
>Ulf Larsson (Big black brute, Sweden)
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:48:44 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '62 300 with factory SUN ROOF 4 sale
Just forwarding the following ad which might be of interest to someone on
our list. Came from the ForwardLook list.
Wayne
****************
Chrysler 300 1962 Rare factory Sun-roof (complete car)
From: Marcel Durivage
Email: Jbourdea@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: October 01, 2001
Time: 04:57:27 PM
Comments
Serial #822310-1922 Type SC2-M Need restoration, 413 (Dual four barrel with
the oval breather) Electric seat, Optometer all in Kilometer for France back
then.All Vin number intact. Asking: $5.500.00 U.S. Not a letter car. Need
some work on the fenders and quarter. Location in Ottawa-Canada Area.
Possibility of transportation by the seller. Ask for Marcel Durivage
819-684-7326.
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 12:24:40 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '57-8 Dash pads
Are there many members on the list or in the club interested in getting their dash pads recovered??
The process involves taking a fiberglass mold or cap from the dash, building on that with foam and covering with the correct black vinyl.So what you will receive is a cap to fit over your dash shell. I have seen the quality of the work this company has done on '57 Plymouth dash caps, it is top notch and it looks like the price will be very competitive as well !
My dash is being fiberglassed at the moment, so this will give those interested, an idea of the finished product.
Right, now for the catch, I and the dash company are in New Zealand, so there will be ship costs, but I still think the total cost and quality will be competitive or better than the US alternatives.
If there's any interest let me know, and I'll work on getting firm prices.
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:33:44 -0400
From: "Dean Mullinax" <55des4me@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
Nobody has mentioned this yet, but if there was no previous problems with
the drums and you are SURE of that, I think I would be visiting the place
that did the work and asking not only for a refund, but for two new drums!
Did they possibly put the drums on a machine that caused the opening to
expand?
Just a thought...
Dean Mullinax
----- Original Message -----
From: <BKWare@xxxxxxx>
To: <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fw: Oh no! Whats happened !
> If the fit is only loose by .001" you may be able to use Green Loctite or
an
> equivalant "Flange Sealant". Talk to an older machinist. I don't see how
it
> could be any more than that from applying a coating unless there was a
> previous condition that you missed. I would be more worried about surface
> hardness if the high temp coating process caused this problem. Let us
know
> who did this job so we can avoid this on other cars.
>
> Brian W.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 22:07:22 -0400
From: "Dou Boilard" <dou4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hurst to go
Hello to all, Just a quick note here to announce that now have our 300 Hurst for sale. The car is located in Quebec, Canada about half an hour drive from the Jackman's, Maine border. Anyone interested ?
Please contact me privately for more info.
Dou
dou4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
tel: 418 227 6466
cell: 418 225 0706
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 22:58:09 -0500
From: "Stan Baker" <sbaker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: need parts
I HAVE A 1971 CHRYSLER 300 2DR HARDTOP, I NEED A RIGHT HAND LOWER BALL JOINT, AND A STRUCTURALLY SOUND ELECTRIC DRIVERS SEAT( WHITE OR BEIGE), ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW AT SBAKER@ NETEXAS.COM
THAN STAN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 00:11:29 EDT
From: MOPARMAN3@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oh no! Whats happened !
Owen and all,
Just a thought, but how about just trashing the hubs, which would require
removal of studs, and just reuse your original hub unit in your refinished
drum with new studs...or some other hubs you may have around. The metal is
apparently in a
stressed state now...only fix is to be stress relieved, which will destroy
the new finish anyway. i'd vote for hub change. Good luck, dan jenks
'62 Sport Fury
'62 Fury wagon
'62 Fury- 4dr.
'68 Coronet R/T Hemi
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