[Chrysler300] Digest Number 652
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 652



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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Correct F and C bumper jacks
           From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
      2. Heading to Battle Creek
           From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
      3. 392 distributor replacement - electronic?
           From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
      4. Trannys. Rebuilder in CA Recommendations??
           From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. 300K Rocker moulding clips
           From: FFGREG32@xxxxxxx
      6. Bargain POR-15 Chassis Coating Available
           From: "John and Donna" <drjjkoot@xxxxxxx>
      7. Which Alternator ?
           From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
      8. Cleaning whitewalls ??
           From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 08:22:31 -0500
   From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Correct F and C bumper jacks

Good Morning Group!

Can anyone supply photos of correct bumper jacks and associated equipment
for F and C?

This would make for a good newsletter article.

Dave Schwandt


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 2
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 08:27:39 -0500
   From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heading to Battle Creek

Anyone on the road east from IA on Thursday AM? 

We will be leaving with the F around 4 AM Thursday. This will put us east
bound on I-80 into ILL around 6 AM, So side if Chicago around 9 AM. Cell
phone 412-418-8734 if anyone cares to convoy at that hour. Could leave
earlier if anyone wants to meet up.

Dave & Carolyn Schwandt


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 3
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:25:46 -0400
   From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 392 distributor replacement - electronic?

Hello & happy dry Monday. No rain yet...
I'm hunting references for a new drop-in replacement distributor for a
stock '57 392 C motor / generator.  I was hoping to find an electronic
unit  - with vacuum advance. (is the vac. advance necessary when going
breakerless?)

The unit I have has a bit of shaft play and a non-functioning vacuum
advance...

So far I've only found units without the vac. advance.     What's best?
Many thanks & have a nice week. 


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Message: 4
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:46:03 -0700
   From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trannys. Rebuilder in CA Recommendations??

Need to get our 300F trans. rebuilt.  Had a recommendation from Larry Jett
for GnSpeedbird@xxxxxxx but received word that his son, who did them in
the past, now is specializing in other areas so cannot help us.

Anyone know of any other Bay Area/Northern CA trans rebuilder for letter
cars??

Thanks, Richard Palmer
510-234-9649 
cell 510-813-9134

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 5
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 18:16:50 EDT
   From: FFGREG32@xxxxxxx
Subject: 300K Rocker moulding clips

Hello, I just came back from visiting my 300K at the body shop. I put the 
correct jack and antenna in the trunk, and was assured that the guy
assigned to 
my car will definitely be working on it this week. Sigh........oh well.
The 
reason for the post is that the body shop mgr. wanted me to locate the
rocker 
molding clips and push pins. Could someone point me in the right
direction? 
Thanks in advance..........oh, and by the way. My 1979 Mercedes 6.9L is
still for 
sale or trade on a 300. 300ly, Greg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 6
   Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:52:22 -0500
   From: "John and Donna" <drjjkoot@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Bargain POR-15 Chassis Coating Available

Hi, Gang. I have some FRESH, unopened POR-15 products left over from a
chassis paint
job on our 1955 Chrysler. I simply ordered too much stuff (about twice
what
I needed!).
I'd like to sell these extra goodies to someone looking to do their
chassis
with POR-15
STOP RUST protective paint. What I'm offering should be more than enough
to
do a complete
chassis. INSTRUCTIONS included, and everything is in full, original
containers, never
opened. Buy some or all. Everything priced below what I paid a few months
ago.

One Gal. Marine Degreaser (concentrated, cleans the chassis) $17; One Gal.
Metal Ready
(concentrated, etches the chassis before POR-15 color coat) $28; Two
Quarts
Black
POR-15 (Stops rust permanently, apply by brush or spray on rusty, but
clean
and etched
chassis) $30 per quart; Two Quarts POR-15 solvent (use for thinning POR-15
paint and
for clean-up) $7.50 per quart; One Quart BlackCote (apply over black
POR-15
if there are
areas of the chassis you think the sun might hit) $37; One Quart POR-Strip
(removes
hardened POR-15 and just about every other kind of coating, non-acidic)
$9.50; One
Quart Tie-Coat Primer (apply over a cured POR-15 surface, and then you can
put any
kind and color of regular automotive paint on) $19.

Shipping at actual UPS cost. Just E-mail me with any questions at
drjjkoot@xxxxxxx .
Thanks, John Koutre, Plover, Wisconsin.



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Message: 7
   Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 00:24:32 EDT
   From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Which Alternator ?


         I've been perusing my Chrysler parts book and noticed a
difference 
in alternator choices. Could someone tell me what the difference is
between the 
"Chrysler built"  and the "Leece Neville" type alternators and how to
readily 
identify each?  Also is there a way to tell their amperage ratings without

bench testing them?

           I seem to recall the 1961 alternator as used in the G had a 
distinctly different pattern to the fins on the housing as compared to all
the 
"newer" alternators up until the "square back" design.

Thanks!
Mike Laiserin


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Message: 8
   Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 16:23:28 +1200
   From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleaning whitewalls ??

Hi there old car nuts,
     Just had my 6 yr old but new Coker 215/75/14 whitewalls put on my
car. Oooooohhhh, nasty black greasy streaks all over the whitewalls after
a few miles of driving, I guess from the sudsy water and general gunk on
the rim. Anyone have any tips for removing this unsightly mess without
wrecking the white on the whitewalls?  
I'm in New Zealand, so USA whitewall cleaning stuff probably is not
available here. 
        Thanks folks........
                                  Dave.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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