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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Gas guage problem
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Lower rear quarter panels - answers
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Airtemp Decal Location
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: rear axle 58 D
From: "The Cann's" <cann@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300F window regulater
From: "Duey Hadfield" <d-dh@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Gas guage problem
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Gas guage problem
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
8. Quarter Panels - while on the topic.....
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. front brakes - 57 vs. 60
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. 300K rear U joint and differential pinion oil seal
From: "Rick Ehrmann" <tc440@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. your kind thoughts
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
12. Many thanks: re cleaning whitewalls.
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Quarter Panels - while on the topic.....
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Gas guage problem
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 06:32:26 -0500
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gas guage problem
Hi Gang, Put in my new gas tank sending unit last week in preparation for the trip to Battle Creek meet. Darn thing reads the same (3/8-1/2 tank) same as the old one. It is one of the "new" units offered by Atwater-Kent on E-Bay.
Everything us hooked up and grounded well at the tank with a Year One ground strap (JUNK-TOO BENDY AND WONT SPRING BACK TO MAKE TIGHT CONTACT WITH GAS LINE) and Year One gasket (TOO THIN) and a Year One Locking ring (LUGS NOT TALL ENOUGH HAD TO USE 2 GASKETS) and Year One filter sock (THIS PART IS OK)
The gauge works clear to full when grounded out but won't go over 3/8 to 1/2 half when hooked up. What gives! Any brain storms out there?? The new unit had the right bends and a new cork float as opposed to the brass float on the original unit and a more "modern" looking control "pot". Thought I'd ask around the list before I embarrass myself and right these people a letter.
No one at the met seemed to have any ideas and several mentioned they had the same problem with their original units.
Dave Schwandt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 07:21:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lower rear quarter panels - answers
George,
According to Ken Mack: "The quarters locate on the
wheelhouse and are not flanged for the door opening or
taillamp opening. They are designed for butt welding
or lap welding on the quarter panel surface. This
method preserves the factory weld markings."
Patrick,
The panels fit DeSoto and Dodge, but I think Plymouth
is different. Ken Mack made contact with the DeSoto
club this weekend and will be advertising in WPC also.
We need to buy some panels so they will be willing to
make the '60-'62 panels (which I believe might work on
'63-'64 with some modification.)
So, if any of you think you are going need panels in
the future, buy them NOW!
Andy
--- patrick grant <gran102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> this post prompts me to ask if these panels as being
> represented for 57-59 would not also work on
> 60-62's. i realize the 62 had a rear bumper indent
> and the top edge of the replacement panel might
> require a lower cutoff point but is the wheel well
> curvature and rocker panel ledge not the same.?
> after all most car rot out at the bottom 6-8 inches
> and that is the hardest to form if you dont have a
> replacement panel. also would these panels not also
> fit desotos and dodges and plymouths. that would
> increase the volume for metalcrafters and maybe
> prompt more panels.??
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: George McKovich
> To: Chrysler 300 Broadcast
> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 6:35 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Lower rear quarter panels
>
>
> I am curious if anyone else has found the new
> quarter panels from
> MetalCrafters to be too short when doing the
> installation?? We found the
> bottom of the front edge of the panels to be 5/8"
> too short and the rear
> part to range from about 1/2" at the top to about
> 1-3/8" short at the
> bottom. Take a look at the following webpage and
> you can see what I am
> referring to:
>
> http://www.collectorsautoparts.com/quarters.htm
>
> The shortfall is between the blue and red lines in
> the first two pictures.
>
> In any case, the passenger side is now on and
> ready for additional panel
> beating to bring it around to being straight....
> And that makes me very
> pleased.
>
> George
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:08:27 -0700
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Airtemp Decal Location
Can anyone inform me of the correct location for the Airtemp decal on my H
Hardtop?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:50:48 -0400
From: "The Cann's" <cann@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rear axle 58 D
> Zak,
> Easiest one first, pack the bearing with wheel bearing grease same as the
> front wheel bearings. No differential lube should pass the inner seal. The
> outer seal just keeps the wheel bearing grease off of the brakes.
> Part 2- Not knowing why the axle was removed or what parts may have
been
> changed I can't say for sure. The only part of the bearing that should
> contact the backing plate is the outer bearing race( the part that is
> pressed into the axle housing ). If the cage that separates the rollers of
> the bearing is out beyond the outer race, I'd say you have a mis-matched
> bearing set.
> One more thing, if you are dealing with a lot of end play on the axle (
> like 3/16 or 1/4 of an inch), you may want to look inside of the housing
> with a flashlight toward the differential. If you are possibly working on
a
> sure-grip unit, the spacers almost always fall out when the axle is
removed.
> If you see a shiny square block just inward of the axle spline- no
> sure-grip. If you see a round disc,
> about 3/4" dia., thats good ,the spacer is in place, if you see a hole
about
> half that dia., thats bad, the spacer fell out and will need to be
retrieved.
> Also, if you are using the same axle and diff. there will be a wear
pattern
> on the splined end of the axle indicating a sure-grip ( circle ) or
standard
> differential. Good luck.
> George
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Origi1nal Message -----
> From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "The Cann's" <cann@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 11:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] rear 'axle' 58 D
>
>
> > George,
> >
> > Thanks for the info. The next question is a two parter.
> > 1) With the bearing pressed on the axle, it seem that the backing plate
> is
> > rubbing against the Timken. Why don't we get a friction failure?
> > 2) With the inner seal in place, how does the Timken get lubricated.
Is
> it
> > packed like the front wheel bearings or does the inner seal just stop
most
> > of the gear oil but allow enough to get by to the Timken and the outer
> seal
> > stops the rest of the gear oil before it gets to the brakes?
> >
> > Zak
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "The Cann's" <cann@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:54 PM
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] rear 'axle' 58 D
> >
> >
> > > Zak,
> > > Your concern on the rear axle shims is one of those things if you're
> not
> > real sure about, the more you think about it the more unsure you become.
> > > Think of it in this way, the shims on the housing 'slightly'
increase
> > the housing length so the bearing cup (outer race) cannot be pushed in
as
> > far when the backing plate is installed. More shims, more play- less
> shims
> > less play. Be sure to bump both axles in with a wooden block before
> > taking your end play reading.
> > > George
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:54:44 -0700
From: "Duey Hadfield" <d-dh@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300F window regulater
Gentlemen, I need a driver side electric window gear box or complete unit or the large gear in the gearbox.
Does anyone have any suggestions? for a1960 300F
Thanks Duey Hadfield d-dh@xxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:40:43 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gas guage problem
Hi Dave, and all
I have the same problem with my "G". New everything, wiring harness, etc.
; still, the gauge won't read full. So, replaced the sending unit. Same
situation.
Seems to me that the problem is located in the voltage regulator built in to
the oil pressure gauge. The gas gauge needs 5 volts to operate. If it is
getting more, or less, voltage, it could affect the readings.
Look at the schematic for the car. 12volts goes in to the oil pressure
gauge. It then gets dropped to 5 volts, which feeds both the fuel gauge and
the temp gauge.
You should measure the output voltage of the oil pressure gauge and see
whether it is within specs. (Hint: use an analog voltmeter, as a digital
unit gets confusing to read due to the voltage spikes and drops every time
the points open and close. The analog meter will "average out" the readings
nicely.) If voltage not within spec, the oil gauge should be rebuilt or
replaced, OR you can bypass the oil gauge's voltage regulator and install a
NAPA #IR-5 ( I think that's the number) voltage regulator, which does the
exact same thing. This is the same voltage regulator as can be found in a
1964 Chrysler. It reduces battery voltage to 5 volts. It can be installed
without chopping wires, and will fit in there nicely.
I did this modification to one of my cars and the fuel gauge now works the
way it should. I have not had time to do it to the gold "G", but I am
fairly confident that it will fix the problem.
Hope this helps,
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
To: "list server" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 7:32 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Gas guage problem
> Hi Gang, Put in my new gas tank sending unit last week in preparation for
the trip to Battle Creek meet. Darn thing reads the same (3/8-1/2 tank) same
as the old one. It is one of the "new" units offered by Atwater-Kent on
E-Bay.
>
> Everything us hooked up and grounded well at the tank with a Year One
ground strap (JUNK-TOO BENDY AND WONT SPRING BACK TO MAKE TIGHT CONTACT WITH
GAS LINE) and Year One gasket (TOO THIN) and a Year One Locking ring (LUGS
NOT TALL ENOUGH HAD TO USE 2 GASKETS) and Year One filter sock (THIS PART IS
OK)
>
> The gauge works clear to full when grounded out but won't go over 3/8 to
1/2 half when hooked up. What gives! Any brain storms out there?? The new
unit had the right bends and a new cork float as opposed to the brass float
on the original unit and a more "modern" looking control "pot". Thought I'd
ask around the list before I embarrass myself and right these people a
letter.
>
> No one at the met seemed to have any ideas and several mentioned they had
the same problem with their original units.
>
> Dave Schwandt
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:40:01 EDT
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Gas guage problem
I too have the same problem~ however; when full mine will read 3/4. When
grounded, it reads full. 40+ year old cars have a mind of their own.
Joe Schmitt
Seattle
300-G
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:22:27 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Quarter Panels - while on the topic.....
After reading all of these emails regarding the '57 panels and hearing talk
about doing '60-'62 as well I wonder what kind of a demand there might be
from the clubs to produce '65/66 quarters? Even though I have an original
rust free '65 300 I also have another that's begging for new quarters. Just
thought I'd ask before I start forming my own the hard way.
Ryan Hill (Vancouver)
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 21:17:51 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: front brakes - 57 vs. 60
Hi to all,
Speaking to Bob D'Agostino (Parade Green stickshift 300C), and discussing
front brakes, something interesting came up, re: attaching location of
FRONT brake shoe return springs on brake shoes.
Looking at page 52 of 1957 Service Manual, it clearly shows the return
springs hooked into a hole in the "body" of the brake shoes (figures 7, 8,
9 or 11).
Now, I have worked mostly on 60 thru 62 cars, and this didn't look right to
me, so I checked out the '60 Service Manual, Group 5, page 8. That clearly
shows the return springs hooked to the "eyelet" on the brake shoes, and NOT
THROUGH THE HOLE !
So- same (stupid) brake system, same everything, but different location for
the return springs where they attach to brake shoes. What gives ???
Checking rear brakes, seems that all are the same, and springs attach to the
"eyelet" on outer edge of shoe, regardless of year...
Is there a right way and a wrong way, or a better way ?
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 21:42:59 -0400
From: "Rick Ehrmann" <tc440@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300K rear U joint and differential pinion oil seal
Hi - Does anyone have a NAPA (or any other) part number for a rear U-joint for my 300K?
I also need a pinion oil seal. My car has the 742 rear with Sure-Grip. Any part numbers?
Thanks,
Rick Ehrmann
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:43:19 -0700
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: your kind thoughts
Just a note to say thank you all for your personal notes of congratulations. We hope to travel south of the 49th to attend a meet one day when we can celebrate together these beautiful brutes!
Ben and Elaine Meisner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:21:43 +1200
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Many thanks: re cleaning whitewalls.
Thank you all for the many replies. Many of the products recommended were not available here in New Zealand, but Simple Green, recommended by about 20 people was, and it did the job.
Best wishes.....and thanks again...
Dave.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 23:06:48 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Quarter Panels - while on the topic.....
I could use a set, maybe 2.
All y'all mised a great meet! Those of us there had mucj fun socializing,
and even repaired several cars.
Hope you all make Dayton, Ray Jones
> From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:22:27 -0700
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Quarter Panels - while on the topic.....
>
> After reading all of these emails regarding the '57 panels and hearing talk
> about doing '60-'62 as well I wonder what kind of a demand there might be
> from the clubs to produce '65/66 quarters? Even though I have an original
> rust free '65 300 I also have another that's begging for new quarters. Just
> thought I'd ask before I start forming my own the hard way.
>
> Ryan Hill (Vancouver)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 23:09:39 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gas guage problem
you've proved the gauge and sendder work OK. Now it needs adjusting, the
float arm needs to be adjusted to read full when the tank is full. It may
have a float that is getting heavy by absorbing gas and not floating
completly on the top.
Ray Jones
> From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
> Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:40:01 EDT
> To: crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx, finsrus@xxxxxxxx
> Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Gas guage problem
>
> I too have the same problem~ however; when full mine will read 3/4. When
> grounded, it reads full. 40+ year old cars have a mind of their own.
>
> Joe Schmitt
> Seattle
> 300-G
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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