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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: front brakes - 57 vs. 60
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. brake springs - 57
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Gas guage problem
From: Tony Brummett <tony@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: 300F window regulater
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
5. 300B
From: "my69300" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Mirror Removal
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
7. 300h - Parting Out
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Mirror Removal
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Front fender seams
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. F guages
From: Lindsey Fuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
11. non-300 direction
From: Gary Finger <my300g@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:15:34 +0200
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: front brakes - 57 vs. 60
Hi John,
It's a question that i ask myself since a lot of time !!! The (US) ' 57
FSM shows that FRONT springs are anchored through the hole of the shoe
and not through the eyelet (fig 57x48, 57x49 etc..). The REAR drum
spring are anchored through the eyelet (fig 56x177A). Note that front
springs have 4 coils and rear have 5 coils.
BUT, on canadian 57-59 Mopar FSM: " insert the 4 coil (5 on rear))
return springs in the hole in the brake shoe webs". Two pics, the one
showing front brakes (fig 1408-57) with spring throught the hole and
another pic showing rear (fig 1409-57) with spring in the eyelet !! Next
page the rear spring is in the hole of the shoe (fig 1410 or 1411-57)
!...
Who knows what is the correct mounting ?
On mine i have anchored the FRONT springs in the eyelet since my
restoration and i posted this yesterday on IML :
"Today i drove my car in a lot of "stop and go" (2 miles driving with
several braking then stopping, then go back 2 miles, then stopping
etc.. ) and i notice after 2 or three travels that front (drum) brakes
make some squealing noise when i brake a little hard, especially when
the car stopped. After another 2 or three travels, the noise increased
and came sooner and also every time i brake the car . This noise is like
the one you've sometimes on disc brakes or the same than when a train
stopped at a station !!! Then i stopped the car for 1 hour or two. When
i took again the car, no noise when braking... But it came again after
20 or 30 braking ..
The noise came from front (left i'm sure but it seems also that right
drum makes noise) not from rear... The braking (except the noise) is
correct. "
I just wonder if ther's something wrong with springs anchored in the
wrong place !!
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:43:19 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake springs - 57
Using the eyelets worked fine for 7 of 8 C wheels...
On the front driverside of my C coupe, however, the persistent squealing
noise Phillippe mentions was the eyelet-mounted return spring coming into
contact with the inside ridge of the brake drum! Wider shoe?
Mis-shapen spring? Worn bearing? I replaced everything, but ended-up
simply bending the shoe eyelet ever-so-slightly to make the squeal/contact
go away. Just a few taps to move the spring inward was all it took.
Its now quiet, and the brakes are very strong. Moving the springs to the
inner mount would also work, but is difficult to do - and would seem to
provide slightly less spring stretch.
No problems so far....it stops very well.
The T-code coupe is to make its grand debut at the 700-car Canton, GA
cruise-in this Saturday -- about 5 miles from the chicken coop it spent
the last 25 years in. Rain forest weather permitting, that is.
-----Original Message-----
From: Philippe Courant [mailto:accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 8:16 AM
To: John Hertog; Chrysler 300 Yahoo List Server
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] front brakes - 57 vs. 60
Hi John,
It's a question that i ask myself since a lot of time !!! The (US) ' 57
FSM shows that FRONT springs are anchored through the hole of the shoe
and not through the eyelet (fig 57x48, 57x49 etc..). The REAR drum
spring are anchored through the eyelet (fig 56x177A). Note that front
springs have 4 coils and rear have 5 coils.
BUT, on canadian 57-59 Mopar FSM: " insert the 4 coil (5 on rear))
return springs in the hole in the brake shoe webs". Two pics, the one
showing front brakes (fig 1408-57) with spring throught the hole and
another pic showing rear (fig 1409-57) with spring in the eyelet !! Next
page the rear spring is in the hole of the shoe (fig 1410 or 1411-57)
!...
Who knows what is the correct mounting ?
On mine i have anchored the FRONT springs in the eyelet since my
restoration and i posted this yesterday on IML :
"Today i drove my car in a lot of "stop and go" (2 miles driving with
several braking then stopping, then go back 2 miles, then stopping
etc.. ) and i notice after 2 or three travels that front (drum) brakes
make some squealing noise when i brake a little hard, especially when
the car stopped. After another 2 or three travels, the noise increased
and came sooner and also every time i brake the car . This noise is like
the one you've sometimes on disc brakes or the same than when a train
stopped at a station !!! Then i stopped the car for 1 hour or two. When
i took again the car, no noise when braking... But it came again after
20 or 30 braking ..
The noise came from front (left i'm sure but it seems also that right
drum makes noise) not from rear... The braking (except the noise) is
correct. "
I just wonder if ther's something wrong with springs anchored in the
wrong place !!
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 09:10:27 -0500
From: Tony Brummett <tony@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gas guage problem
On Mon, Jun 16, 2003 at 06:40:01PM -0400, joeypilot@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I too have the same problem~ however; when full mine will read 3/4. When
> grounded, it reads full. 40+ year old cars have a mind of their own.
The sending unit has low resistance when it's full and higher resistance
when it's empty, right? So, if the gauge dosen't ever read all the way
full,
but does move as the gas level changes in the tank, maybe the problem
is the wire that runs back to the sending unit. If the connections are
corroded or the insulation has fallen off and oxidized the wire, that
would
add resistance and make the gauge read low.
-- Tony tony@xxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 13:32:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300F window regulater
When faced with the same problem I sourced a used
housing from Murray Park of Tiffin Ohio. The gear
cannot be replaced as it is part of the housing.
Try Murray at:
mbpark@xxxxxxxxxx
Paul Martin
300F
Vancouver BC
--- Duey Hadfield <d-dh@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >
Gentlemen, I need a driver side electric window
> gear box or complete unit or the large gear in the
> gearbox.
> Does anyone have any suggestions? for a1960 300F
> Thanks Duey Hadfield d-dh@xxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 18:31:42 -0000
From: "my69300" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300B
I found a 1:18 scale of a 56 300B .
You guys may already know about this
model. If any one is interested just
email. The car is only 29.99.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:49:48 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Mirror Removal
Hi, All,
I'm in the process of removing stuff from my K, and I need some advice on
taking off the remote control exterior mirror. There are 3 cables
connected to
the mirror part of the assembly (the glass part). It seems that it would
be
better to take these cables off at the inside control knob. True? How
can I do
that and have at least some chance of getting it back together? I really
don't want to ruin anything doing this.
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 14:33:08 -0700
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300h - Parting Out
A 300 H is being parted out in Penslyvania. Items remaining are:
tranmission, drive shaft, rear end, 150mph instrument cluster, remote
mirror, some side mouldings, windshield, backglass, windows (all tinted),
roof and rear quarter panel. Call Will @ 570-725-3482. There may be
additional items.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 12:51:58 -0700
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Mirror Removal
George, If it's like my H, the removal process should start from inside.
Under the round black piece with the wording on it is a large nut and
washer
which will free the operating lever from the mounting. There is a hole
thru
the firewall with a rubber gromet that enables you to pull the operating
lever and cables out. Doug W.
-----Original Message-----
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx [mailto:News4ge@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:50 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Mirror Removal
Hi, All,
I'm in the process of removing stuff from my K, and I need some advice on
taking off the remote control exterior mirror. There are 3 cables
connected
to
the mirror part of the assembly (the glass part). It seems that it would
be
better to take these cables off at the inside control knob. True? How
can
I do
that and have at least some chance of getting it back together? I really
don't want to ruin anything doing this.
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:20:52 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front fender seams
Hi Wayne & all
Was talking with the guy doing the body work on my 300C regarding the body
joining/seams that run horizontally and vertically from the headlight
bucket. He was asking if I wanted to fill these seams by tig weld.... to
give it a "cleaner" look I suppose.
I was thinking it may take away from the look of the car &/or the
originallity? Anybody done this? Any advice?
Thanks
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:53:03 -0500
From: Lindsey Fuller <lfuller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: F guages
noticed a curl of grey smoke inside the left side of my astrodome on
startup a few days ago. did a cursory check & all guages light as before
& work, except the ammeter guage acts up a bit more than before (but
still seems to work most of the time) and it is now "lazy" with ignition
off-sits about 1/2 way to discharge. system is charging @13.5 volts. I
suspect a small wire burned up in the ammeter. Any ideas as to what it
might be or if the guage can be repaired? Thks
Lindsey Fuller
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 20:14:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Finger <my300g@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: non-300 direction
Looking for some direction. Even though I am a proud
owner of a 300G (888 interior) I have a 1950 Chevy
Styleline Deluxe convertable (with powerglide
trans)that I want sell. Anyone know where I can get
production numbers? If so, please reply directly to
my300g@xxxxxxxxx (That way we won't tie up the whole
club with non-essentials.) Thanks Gary
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