------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Wireless Video Surveillance
http://us.click.yahoo.com/jWIEhC/90OGAA/ySSFAA/8LmulB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Front fender seams
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Mirror removal
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
3. runaway on 2-3 upshift ('57 Torqueflite)
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Need Help to ID NOS Part
From: TNHARKINS@xxxxxxx
5. kickdown problem on '57 Tqf (related to runaway 2-3 upshift ?)
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 08:16:51 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front fender seams
There is only really one reason to end up without seams under the headlamp
area of a C, D, or E. That is if it was so badly rusted or damaged that
you don't know where they belong. They should always be apparent on a
restoration. Only a customized car should have them filled.
Wayne
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:20:52 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front fender seams
Hi Wayne & all
Was talking with the guy doing the body work on my 300C regarding the body
joining/seams that run horizontally and vertically from the headlight
bucket. He was asking if I wanted to fill these seams by tig weld.... to
give it a "cleaner" look I suppose.
I was thinking it may take away from the look of the car &/or the
originallity? Anybody done this? Any advice?
Thanks
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:56:40 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Mirror removal
Thanks to all of you who responded to my mirror question. The hole in the
top of the fender is barely large enough for the cables to pass through.
The
control knob won't make it, so I have to disconnect the cables from the
inside
control. I didn't attempt it today - need to get some paint or maybe some
crayons to mark the cables and slots. I'll let you know how it goes.
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 00:16:32 +0200
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: runaway on 2-3 upshift ('57 Torqueflite)
hi,
After my squealing brakes problem (i have no time since monday to fix
it...) i had also another problem (which in fact i 've since i
overhauled the trans. some years ago but more noticeable this damned
monday) : an overspeeding of the engine every time the trans. upshifts
from 2 to 3. Only a 1/2 second but not a very good thing for the engine
.. As you think the runaway is much noticeable if the upshift occurs at
a higher speed.
If i look at the trasnmission power flow i note that when the trans must
shift from 2 to 3 you must have simultaneously a disengagement of the KD
band and an apply of the rear clutch (front clutch remains engaged). it
seems that on my car the two actions are not simultaneaous... Why ?
Problem with the 2-3 shift valve or the "shuttle valve". Or anything else
?
Oil level is OK. Transmission has 4000 miles since overhaul. No slippage
, no problem on 1-2 upshift.
I have also a "forced kick down" problem (no KD ..) but i'll explain it
on a next message
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:45:37 EDT
From: TNHARKINS@xxxxxxx
Subject: Need Help to ID NOS Part
Hi Folks:
Have a NOS Back Up Light kit showing MOPAR #1345 657 on the box. Can
anyone
advise what model and year MOPAR it is for? Also, if anyone needs it, it
will
be for sale.
Thanks,
Tom Harkins
300F
300M
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 10:13:48 +0200
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: kickdown problem on '57 Tqf (related to runaway 2-3 upshift ?)
her's my second Torqueflite problem :
I never have a "forced kickdown downshift" since i rebuilt the Tqf (i
don't know if the car kickdowned before as it was not running..)
The car downshifts well if i slow down but if i push the gas pedal to
floor the car remains in 3.
I've tried to lenghten the throttle rod, result has been that trans.
upshifts at higher speed. Now the 1-2 upshift occurs at 15-20 mph (with
light throttle) and the 2-3 at 30-35 with light throttle. If i put
heavier pressure on pedal the shifts occur at higher speeds (as 30 and
50 may be, i don't test often because the runaway 2-3 !!).
Note that if i uphift manually with buttons i've also the 2-3 runaway.
I've looked at various manuals about kickdown linkage. About "forcing
kickdown" they say: "depressing the pedal past the detent "feel" near
wide open throttle. What is this detent feel ? What must i "feel" ?
(The FSM talks about a kickdown detent plug on stem of kdwn valve which
supplies the resistance necessary for a detent "feel". but i don't know
how works this plug which slides on the kdwn valve stem). Does this
imply that i must feel then overcome a hard point at end of accelerator
pedal travel ?
I've also read somewhere that "accelerator pedal must permit a
transmission kickdown without compressing the floor mat" (if not adjust
pedal-to-bell crank). Perhaps (even if i set up the pedal at 118°) my
pedal doesn't permit to go in kickdown range ?
Surprisingly i've read on the IML page someone (Peter) who had the same
problem than me !!
(http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Transmission/kickdown.htm). Don't
know if Peter has solved the problem and how...
Thanks to all for the messages.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap