------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360° Tours, Research,
Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used
http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/8LmulB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. 300C Front Brakes
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: 300C Front Brakes
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300C Front Brakes
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: 300C Front Brakes
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Rubber Renew
From: "Marty McDonough" <oldtimer@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Dome light 300F
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
7. 3.08 or 3.07 rear axle gears for 56 300 b
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. carb number
From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Pistons
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. 392 hemi heads and crankshaft
From: Robert Kern <mjkern@xxxxxxxx>
14. Horn Problems J, K, others?
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Horn Problems J, K, others? - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16.
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: carb number
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: carb number
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 07:13:29 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Front Brakes
Mark,
I'm just curious if you have replaced both front brake hoses. Its possible you have an internal breakdown in the left front hose that is not allowing the fluid to return back towards the master after an application of the brakes.
Also, how much size difference is there now between the diameter of the left front drum versus the right front drum. Center plane brakes are unusually sensitive to variations in diameter.
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 15:16:56 +0200
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes
Hi,
I've also a similar problem on the front brakes of my '57 Imperial: when
i start the car after a week the first braking are very hard. The car
goes immediatly to the left and the left wheel blocks if i push too hard
the pedal. After some miles the braking is different: the car goes
slightly to the ..right ! But braking continues to be too hard,
especially at slow speed and if i push too hard the pedal. The
passengers are throwed in the windshield or in the backrests ..
And yes the car is dangerous because if i must do an emergency braking i
don't know where the car will go !!
I've tried several times to adjust them , seems to be good at first
check then the problem arises again.
I suspect the lining (the front brakes are squealing when they are hot,
like disc brakes) , maybe too soft so too efficient ?
The front end is new as are the brakes parts (except backing plates)
Note that a friend of mine had problem with rear brakes (locked after
some miles with brake lights "on", smoke , etc..). After a lot of
checks, exchange, etc.. we found that it was the .. new rear brake hose
! It was new (from Kant..) !! The fluid went to the wheel cylinders but
couldn't go back ...
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:41:54 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes
Philippe,
The only way the situation can change from one side to the other is
if the first side that is locking is getting hot first. As that
side experiences "brake fade" from the overhot condition, then the
other side becomes more effective.
I do not like Kanter hose quality.
I would like to see someone go to a street rod supplier making steel
braided hoses and get a quantity made for our cars. I care more for
safety than authenticity.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:34:53 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes
Also, how much size difference is there now between the diameter of the left
front drum versus the right front drum. Center plane brakes are unusually
sensitive to variations in diameter.
Wayne
In addition to what has been posted by others, brake shoes must fit the
drum. New shoes with a proper arc will have about .020" clearance at the
ends when seated in the drum (drum and brake shoe off car). If the ends hit
first, a very erratic brake action will result.
Proper tools cam grind shoes to fit the drum. Tooling to accomplish such is
far obsolete; operator health concerns, mostly. Practice of arcing shoes was
a necessary operation when drum size was above a reasonable limit. That
limit is not set at (generally) .060" above nominal and relined shoes are
factory cam ground to accomodate this number.
Something we see in high mileage drum brake cars and trucks is wear at the
support pads where the shoes rest against the backing plate (brakes noisey
and grab and don't release smoothly). These pads must be super smooth and in
a plane. Welding and grinding will restore the surfaces. Light coat of
synthetic brake grease (I still use NeverSeez) on the pads lets the shoes
move smoothly.
I live in a DRY area. Even so, the slightest bit of moisture in the air and
after an extended park period, I will have a first application brake noise
situation with, in particular, one of my cars.
HTH
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 09:49:45 -0700
From: "Marty McDonough" <oldtimer@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rubber Renew
On Sat, 13 Sep 2003 Matt Allyn wrote:
>I have an NOS piece of weather-strip that I'd like to use, as a
reproduction is not available. Being that is was made in 1962 it is now a
little stiff. Any thought on how to soften it up >again so it's shape can
be restored, thus installed properly?
Matt, soak it for a couple of days in GoJo (the hand cleaner). It will come
out like new (?). This is well known in the Corvette Restoration hobby.
Marty McDonough
300C
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:06:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dome light 300F
are the two dome light above the side windows on a
300F hardtop activated by opening the doors or only
activated by the dsh switch? When I open the doors the
dash courtesy lamp and the footwell lights come on but
not the dome lamps.
Paul Martin
300F
Vancouver BC
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:41:27 -0700
From: "obiwan10" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 3.08 or 3.07 rear axle gears for 56 300 b
Again I am posting a request for any tips on leading me to a 3.08 or .07(some folks say) ring and pinion for a 56 300 B.
This ratio typically was factory installed only on Torqueflight/Imperials that were sold in the flatlands of America.
If no success I will probably switch entire rear axle assembly to a 57(which these gears are easily acquired for).
Any problems that I should be aware of here(except point deduction at Chrysler 300 meets which I can live with)?
Anyone know what is different between 56 and 57 pumpkin that precludes using 57 gear in a 56 rear end?
Car is currently equipped with a 3.54 which makes lifters sound like swapping holes at 70 mph. Yes I am aware that some will say that this is a happy sound but on a long drive it is getting harder for my old ears to hear Rush on the radio.
Check those old Imperial rear ends out there.
Thanks for any help
Roger Schaaf
300 B Calif
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 19:32:05 -0500
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
Greetings 300 Club Members:
Thanks to those who replied to my brake problem. Let me try to explain what's happening. My first attempt may not have been clear.
My 300C was pulling to the left when I test drove the car before buying it December of 2002. The seller said the car recently had a new brake job and I found the receipt to confirm it. The master cylinder was rebuilt too. I was hoping that after a little driving the brakes would free up and the problem would go away. :-) No such luck.
I then tore the front brakes down. The brake shoe linings looked pretty good but the inside of the right front drum was not smooth. It was a bit wavy (at a microscopic level). The machinist at NAPA had never seen that before. He then mic'd the drums and said they could be turned. So I had them turned. The machinist was out when I picked the drums up so I do not have the drum IDs. Hopefully they are both the same.
I then bought some old brake shoes from a club member in Brookfield, WI and had them relined. No one that I called arcs brake shoes any more. I was told that arcing went out with asbestos brake shoe linings. Can you imagine the asbestos brake shoe dust when shoes were arced 15-years ago? The newly restored shoes do not fit perfect to the drum. There is clearance at both ends when centered in the drum. I'll have to live with that and "break the shoes in".
I noticed that the right front brake shoe contacts the drum at the top end of the shoe (rather than the middle) when installed. It can be seen by rub marks when adjusting the brake. The front shoe won't center itself either like the right rear shoe does. Also, the front shoe doesn't adjust correctly. The adjusting cam needs to be backed off way to much for the shoe to come off the drum. That's why I think the brake shoe return spring is weak because the shoe is hanging up and not returning. The brake support plate is also suspect because the shoes could be hanging there when returning.
Wayne Graefen suggested replacing the front hoses. I will. It seems the inside of a hose can break down and prevent fluid from returning to the master cylinder. I heard that from others too.
Joe McCormick gave me a lead on return springs from Northwestern Auto Supply in Grand Rapids, MI. I'll call them first thing in the morning.
Any other comments are truly appreciated. Sorry this note got so long.
Mark Schueller
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 19:39:55 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
Mark Schueller wrote:
> Greetings 300 Club Members:
> Thanks to those who replied to my brake problem. Let me try to explain
> what's happening. My first attempt may not have been clear.
snip
> Joe McCormick gave me a lead on return springs from Northwestern Auto
> Supply in Grand Rapids, MI. I'll call them first thing in the morning.
> Any other comments are truly appreciated. Sorry this note got so long.
> Mark Schueller
It was said at one time that the late 60's - early 70's cars had a heavy
duty brake spring, exactly like the 57 spring. MIGHT be another source
to ask about!!
BUT I think there are a fair number of folks that would be interested in
a possible source today!
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:53:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: carb number
this should be an easy one. i need the correct carb
number for the carter afbs' for a 61 300g
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:18:15 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Pistons
If there are any members that are thinking about rebuilding there 413
engines. I just bought a new set of Federal- Mogul Pistons for $ 61.12
for all eight. They only have .030" oversize. and 9.7 to 1 compression
ratio Thats about a $ 250.00 savings over most suppliers. I just
received mine today. I bought them through www.rockauto.com
. They also carry other 300 parts of all years.
Gary Barker
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:47:03 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 2)
the inside of the right front drum was not smooth. It was a bit wavy (at a
microscopic level)
Probably tool chatter from a bad setup on the part of the lathe operator or
something like a dull bit. Hard spots in a drum show up as islands in the
braking surface and does not sound like you have this condition. Drums with
hard spots must be ground to restore the braking surfaces. Finding someone
to grind drums may well be as hard as finding a brake lining arcing machine
(which BTW have big vacuum cleaners attached to catch the dust; oh, yeah).
Hard spots are noise makers.
I do not have the drum IDs. Hopefully they are both the same.
I definately like the diameters to be equal (replace drums in pairs) but
have seen .030 difference side to side and no problem.
There is clearance at both ends when centered in the drum. I'll have to live
with that and "break the shoes in".
There should be, must be clearance at the ends with the shoe centered on the
drum braking surface. This relationship is what the cam grinder does (when
the shoes are relined). The lining should actually rock but slightly.
Clearance should be something and up to .020" and do not try to make it less
as brake lining will seat in just fine and very quickly.
I noticed that the right front brake shoe contacts the drum at the top end
of the shoe (rather than the middle) when installed. It can be seen by rub
marks when adjusting the brake.
This is exactly what will cause uneven braking, grabbing etc. This is why
brake lining must be ground with clearance. If your shoes fit the drum
properly off the car and are hitting on one end or the other when installed,
there is a problem with the installation of the shoes (etc) on the car.
The front shoe won't center itself either like the right rear shoe does.
Also, the front shoe doesn't adjust correctly. The adjusting cam needs to be
backed off way to much for the shoe to come off the drum. That's why I think
the brake shoe return spring is weak because the shoe is hanging up and not
returning. The brake support plate is also suspect because the shoes could
be hanging there when returning.
There is a good product to use where the shoe rests on the anchor and where
the shoes rest on the backing plate. It is made by CRC; Sta-Lube Brake
Caliper Synthetic Lube. A little bit will work wonders at letting shoes
return properly providing that backing plate surfaces are super smooth, flat
and clean. Needs to be used on anchor also and too much will screw up brake
linings.
There are some truck brake configurations that benefit from using the brake
pedal to center the linings in the drum during adjustment.
Wayne Graefen suggested replacing the front hoses. I will. It seems the
inside of a hose can break down and prevent fluid from returning to the
master cylinder. I heard that from others too.
Joe McCormick gave me a lead on return springs from Northwestern Auto Supply
in Grand Rapids, MI. I'll call them first thing in the morning.
New brake hardware is cheap and with a big positive payoff. New hoses; the
same. ALL the hoses BTW.
There seems to be a list of problems with the front brakes on this car but
the rear brakes can cause pulling also.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:48:30 -0500
From: Robert Kern <mjkern@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 392 hemi heads and crankshaft
I have a crankshaft and a pair of 392 hemi heads from a 392 1958 Imperial
engine. The crankshaft is not hardened like a 300 one. I used the 392
block for rebuilding my 300C engine that sustained 3 cracks in the block.
The crankshaft I'll sell for $100 and the heads I'll sell for $200 for
the pair, plus shipping. Please contact me if interested via my e-mail
address. ROB KERN
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:58:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Horn Problems J, K, others?
Hi All,
I spent some time playing '63 horn repair this weekend and have reached a dead end. Everything in the system tests fine until I get to the steering shaft. It doesn't provide the ground that the relay needs. If I take the horn ring cap off and ground the shaft, everything works great. Put a meter on the shaft and I get no continuity anywhere. Anybody had this problem and if so, got a solution they'd care to share?
Thanks & 300ly
Russ Vaughan
Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:33:17 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Horn Problems J, K, others? - reply
Hi Russ,
Sounds like your problem is with the copper grounding strap that provides
ground to the actual shaft itself. This copper "sheet" wraps around the
rubber steering insulator that fits between box and shaft, and grounds the
shaft to the box.
Solution is removal of outer jacket of steering column, and examination of
the end of shaft where it meets box. Probably a good idea to replace the
rubber steering insulator same time, as it is probably shot or falling
apart...
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Vaughan" <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:58 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Horn Problems J, K, others?
Hi All,
I spent some time playing '63 horn repair this weekend and have reached a
dead end. Everything in the system tests fine until I get to the steering
shaft. It doesn't provide the ground that the relay needs. If I take the
horn ring cap off and ground the shaft, everything works great. Put a meter
on the shaft and I get no continuity anywhere. Anybody had this problem and
if so, got a solution they'd care to share?
Thanks & 300ly
Russ Vaughan
Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:48:42 -0700
From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
Subject:
Horn;
Russ I had the same problem after taking the outer shaft off about ten times. I discovered the reason there was no ground was because the wire that attaches to the steering wheel copper ring, was in fact broken . I tired to re solder it but it broke again in a day, so I drilled a small hole were it attached to the copper ground on the wheel and it has worked fine ever since . There are only two grounds on the wheel and at the end of the shaft . If both are at ground it has to work.
regards
Ben Meisner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:47:35 -0700
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: carb number
That would be 2903S!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kelly
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 5:53 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] carb number
this should be an easy one. i need the correct carb
number for the carter afbs' for a 61 300g
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:19:23 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: carb number
Easier than you thought...look on the back of your300 Club membership card.
Just another benefit from those wonderful peoples at the Club Office!
Ray jones
> From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:47:35 -0700
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jim Kelly" <gmman4@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] carb number
>
> That would be 2903S!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kelly
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 5:53 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] carb number
>
>
> this should be an easy one. i need the correct carb
> number for the carter afbs' for a 61 300g
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap