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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. extraction... how? - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: extraction... how?
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
3. G Brakes
From: Val Jeffers <edward1108@xxxxxxxxx>
4. G Brakes - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: G Brakes
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
6. 300f on ebay
From: "Wayne Wunderlich" <texan@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Fw: VIN # for 56 B???
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: F on e-Bay
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. 300C Front Brakes (take 4) - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DeSoto George
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:11:50 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: extraction... how? - reply
Hi Mike,
Seems to me you gotta remove spark plugs on that side, borrow a borescope,
and take a look inside the cylinders to see which one the nut is in. Then
rotate the engine to where that piston is at TDC. That should bring the nut
to "grabbing" range.
Then use a small magnet to get nut out thru spark plug hole (if it will fit
thru it) . If not, remove intake, compress intake valve (which is the way
the nut got in there in the first place) and attempt to get the nut out that
way.
Or - assuming you know that the nut WILL fit thru spark plug hole, remove
the spark plug for that cylinder and run the engine, hoping that the nut
will come flying out... from reading your e-mail, it sounds like you have
been driving the truck with the nut in the engine.. it's probably getting
mangled / smaller...
J.
----- Original Message -----
From: <mwl1967@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 3:09 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] extraction... how?
Not quite "300" related but I sure could use the collective
imagination of the mechanically inclined here. Short and sweet... the 5
Star brain
surgeons at the local Dodge dealer lost the wing nut from the K&N air
cleaner on
my 5.2L Dakota. I found it... seems it's rattling around inside one of the
cylinders on the passenger side of the engine.
Funny that their story has gone from 1) thats the way it was to 2)
we
didn't do it to 3) we dont hear that clackety-clack and even if we could
hear
it it's a normal noise.
So... any ideas on how to get it outta there without 1) tearing the
engine down or 2) tearing out what's left of my hair or 3) tearing the head
off
the service managers shoulders. Any useful suggestions appreciated.
Thanks and please , no laughing
Mike Laiserin
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:20:36 EDT
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: extraction... how?
In a message dated 10/12/2003 3:11:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mwl1967@xxxxxxx writes:
So... any ideas on how to get it outta there without 1) tearing the
engine down or 2) tearing out what's left of my hair or 3) tearing the head
off
the service managers shoulders. Any useful suggestions appreciated.
Mike,
If you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that there is a loose piece in the engine, it
SHOULD NOT be run! if nothing else, it will shot-peen the living daylights out of
all that soft aluminum we call a piston. It will also score the walls of the
cylinder, bend valves, etc. I'm surprised that no one has been willing to
tell you this. there is a catastrophe waiting to happen.
The cylinder head must come off, even if just to inspect the damage. If, by
chance, you were able to get the nut out of there intact, I wouldn't expect a
normal service life from the engine.
Good Luck!!!!
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, MI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 06:29:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Val Jeffers <edward1108@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: G Brakes
Went out yesterday to move and the pedal goes to the floor. Had new master cylinder aproximately 7 or 8 years ago plus new linings last year. Brakes had seemed a little "spongey" but I thought they needed adjusting. Where should I start ?
Thanks Guys,
Val Jeffers
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:36:15 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: G Brakes - reply
Hi Val, and all
First, let me state that I experienced a computer crash last 48 hours. If
some of you sent me e-mails during that period, they disappeared in the
crash. If it was important, please resend.
Brake fluid just doesn't disappear. It either leaked out of a wheel
cylinder, or out the back of the master cylinder, or out of a rotted brake
line. Carefully examine your entire brake system visually to determine where
the leak is. Look under each of the backing plates for signs of wetness.
You will find visual traces of all the brake fluid that disappeared
somewhere. That will be the cause your problem.
Worst case, if you can's see it with the wheels /drums still installed,
remove all, and check each wheel cylinder in turn, peeling back the rubber
dust cover , looking for signs of seepage and wetness. Hopefully you will
find the culprit in the front - before having to fight the rear drums.
Good luck
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Val Jeffers" <edward1108@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 9:29 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] G Brakes
Went out yesterday to move and the pedal goes to the floor. Had new master
cylinder aproximately 7 or 8 years ago plus new linings last year. Brakes
had seemed a little "spongey" but I thought they needed adjusting. Where
should I start ?
Thanks Guys,
Val Jeffers
---------------------------------
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The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 09:49:23 EDT
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: G Brakes
Check fluid level in the master cylinder. "Spongy" feeling brakes usually
mean that you're compressing air in the master cylinder rather than pushing
fluid through the lines.
Sometimes, if you're lucky, the air bubbles will come out through the bleed
hole by themselves if you refill the reservoir and jiggle the brake pedal. If
they don't, you must bleed them out through the wheel cylinders.
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, MI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 10:20:54 -0500
From: "Wayne Wunderlich" <texan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300f on ebay
Hi Group,
Theirs a black 300f for sale on ebay:
www.ebay.com item no. 2437022041.
It is located in Mass. and I was wondering if any member has any knowledge
of this car ????
Thanks,
Wayne
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 13:08:25 -0700
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: VIN # for 56 B???
How about in front of the radiator on the lower sheet metal panel under the
hood latch? The serial number for the motor will be stenciled/engraved on
the right side frame horn to which the front bumper mounting bracket is
attached. Will be on the outside(toward the wheel). This number should
match the engine serial number but not the Vin #. Is hard to find with body
on car but can be done.
Roger Schaaf
300 B Calif.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 5:13 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Fw: VIN # for 56 B???
Besides the Tag on the doorpost, is there anywhere else the VIN # for a 56 B
can be found on the car?
Thanks in advance, Henry
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 13:28:48 +1300
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: F on e-Bay
Wayne.....the VIN would be a start, but the seller has not bothered to list it in his ad. You'd think a car yard would realise the importance of it to prospective bidders who want to be 100% sure of what they are looking at. A pic of the body no and VIN plate should be par for the course.
If the VIN was listed, any 300 Int'l member with the December 2000 Newsflite could check it against 'known' ones in the last published list.
BTW, all previous car/truck sales by this seller have the VIN listed.........mmmmm, wonder why the F's VIN is 'not there'. Looks nice too. Maybe he didn't think it was too important on such an old car!
Dave.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 21:20:49 -0500
From: "Mark Schueller" <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
Greetings 300 Club Members:
My 300C still has a front brake problem. I first asked for help mid-September and many helped by giving suggestions. The car had been pulling hard to the left when braking hard. It takes forever for me to get something done because I do my own mechanical work in spare time after work.
I replaced both front brake hoses, had the brake drums turned (both are 0.080 over), had 4-brake shoes relined, had the brake shoes arced to the brake drums (thanks to Bob Jasinski's persistence), checked and cleaned the wheel cylinders (they were free and clean), installed new brake shoe return springs, and lubed brake shoe friction points with synthetic lube. After assembly and adjusting, etc., etc., I took the car out for a 20-minute test drive and the car braked without pulling left or right. The pedal wasn't the best but I was delighted. The following day I went for a longer ride and stopped at a restaurant with my wife. When we came back out the right front brake was partially locked up. The brake became free after jockeying the car back and forth. We made it home but the right front brake was starting to lock up again. I put the car in the garage for the night and tried pushing the car by hand the following morning. It rolled easily. Hopefully that means the brakes were properly adjusted.
I tore the right front wheel down again and found a problem with the brake support plate. The brake shoes were wearing in nicely, the inside of the drums looked good and so did everything else. The front brake support plate spring that rests against the adjusting cam was pulled way out and is obviously shot. The spring looked slightly bent mid-September when work began, but I thought it would work so I reused it. The previous owner put new brakes and master cylinder in the car last year but when I test drove it in November 2002 it was pulling to the left. I figured it would be an easy fix. Yah sure!
I need the following 300C replacement parts and expect to pay for them (part numbers are my best interpretation of the PARTS LIST):
Right Front Wheel Brake Support (part number 1677 052?)
Right Front Wheel Brake Dust Shield (part number 1675 032?)
Right Front Brake Drum with Hub (part number 1732 288?)
Left Front Brake Drum with Hub (part number 1732-289?) I want to replace the drums because 0.080" over is beyond the recommended maximum of 0.060" over.
Another thought is to convert to disk brakes. I would rather not but it's an option. Is anyone experienced with this conversion on a 300C? Your input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any help. I defininately need it. This has not been a good summer with my new C.
Mark Schueller
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 23:27:49 -0400
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
Hi Mark -
> I tore the right front wheel down again and found a problem with the brake
support plate.
What was the problem that you found ?
>The front brake support plate spring that rests against the adjusting cam
was pulled way out and is obviously shot. The spring looked slightly bent
mid-September when work began, but I thought it would work so I reused it.
Looking at the illustration in the shop manual, there is no spring that
'rests against the adjusting cam'. There is one spring near each of the
adjusting cams that has one end attached to the spring link of the support
plate and the other to an eyelet on the brake shoe. Are you talking about
the spring link ? If so, it is probably 'pulled out' because the shoes are
trying to reach the drums, which are too far gone to be of service. If you
turn the cams on the support plate, you will notice that they will 'pull in'
the spring link. Of course, now your brakes won't work at all, again,
because the drums are too far gone.
I would find a good set of drums before driving the car again, have them
turned to the same value on both sides, verify that the shoes arc to the
drums, get new hardware (springs, etc), reassemble everything and take it
out for a drive.
One other thing. The brakes are the most important system on your rare and
valuable car. Don't take chances with overlimit drums or old springs.
Good Luck !
Ron
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 23:38:28 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Front Brakes (take 4) - reply
Hi Mark,
Read your brake saga with great interest. Reminds me of the many fights I
had with those #%^ brakes on my 300's . You have my condoleances and all
my sympathy ! I understand that some Club members have expressed that they
are happy with their stock original Center-plane brakes. I have never been
that lucky.
The only intelligent answer I can have is to your specific question:
"Another thought is to convert to disk brakes. I would rather not but it's
an option. Is anyone experienced with this conversion on a 300C? Your input
is greatly appreciated. "
There are two commercial kits now available that will bolt right on to your
300C. One is made by "AAJ" in Portland, OR - their web site is:
http://www.aajbrakes.bravepages.com/
and the other is made by Stainless Steel Brake, upstate NY :
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/
Both are based on a bracket that attaches to your spindle and require no
permanent modification to the car. Both will fit under 14" wheels.
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:04:56 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
With all this brake talk, has anyone purchased, or knows if the repro brake
drums are available from Kanter yet? Quality of them?
Thanks
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Schueller <f41324@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler 300 Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 3:20 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300C Front Brakes (take 4)
Brake Drum with Hub (part number 1732-289?) I want to replace the drums
because 0.080" over is beyond the recommended maximum of 0.060" over.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:16:14 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeSoto George
Sorry to run this thru the list, but seems like the only way to get a
certain reply to the Terry's....
Hi Nancy & George,
Only have an email for DeSoto George in Aus desoto58@xxxxxxxxxx
Good luck!
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: NANCY TERRY <nterry2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 1:17 PM
Subject: DeSoto George
> Dear Owen,
> George and I are in Adelaide. We went to a US car meet last night with
> Chris Beilby and met a man who said that DeSoto Geoge lives in Brisbane.
We
> will be in Brisbane next Sunday and nearby for about 5 days. We sure
would
> like to contact him as we'll definitely be needing some of his lens work
for
> our 300C. Could you tell us how to contact him. If you reply by email,
we
> can pick it up after we get over in Brisbane. I just remembereed I asked
my
> daughter to destroy my junk mail for the next 6 days and am not sure I can
> put you on my list, so if you could send it through the 300 Club list, I
> know it'll go into my regular email inbox. Would really appreciate it.
> Nancy and George Terry
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
> http://msnmessenger-download.com
>
>
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