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There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. nicely equipped 62 Newport
From: <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300 f power source
From: Leggatt <leggatt@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Black Magic on the Steering Committee
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Reaction to Lazenby's prices
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
12. Black Magic Steering - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Reaction to Lazenby's prices
From: c300c@xxxxxxx
15. Re: member's "BRIGHT" ideas
From: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. 413 Cam Clearance
From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: 413 Cam Clearance
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 04:53:01 -0700
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
Has anyone out there besides me used www.junkyards.com ?
You can actually list the part you are looking for and the junkyards will call you!!
Got my 57 Generator this way.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: PaddyCaddy . [mailto:paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:30 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
OK guys - here goes.
Being a masochist when it comes to my personal workload and perpetual
projects, I've roped myself into another one and agreed to compile a state
by state list of salvage yards that will eventually be available to any club
member via the website and/or in the newsletter once it's "done." By "done"
I mean that I'll be ready to present it to the Club by the end of the year.
So we'll all have a good six weeks or so to contribute. I'm not sure
I'll be babysitting it after that - so you'll need to contact me within that
time frame. I'll include every listing I get - from or about any yard
worldwide.
I've coordinated with the powers that be in the club to start compiling this
list once the next newsletter is mailed out - which they predicted would be
in about 3 weeks. There will be an ad in that newsletter with my address
requesting input from everyone who cares to contribute. That way I can get
all the input from online sources at the same time I get mail from people
not on the internet.
SO PLEASE DO NOT START SENDING ME ANYTHING NOW. IT WILL BE DELETED TO KEEP
THIS INBOX FROM FILLING UP.
I'll be setting up a special email address for this specific purpose, and
will let you know soon what it is when to start submitting stuff to it.
The guidelines that me and the club brass have agreed to are as follows:
Only yards that have parts for any Mopar vehicles UP TO 1970 will be put
onto the list.
Please DO NOT send me new reproduction parts dealers. Only places that have
used parts and/or parts cars will be included. If someone wants to compile
a separate list of, say, NOS suppliers or repro dealers - be my guest. I'm
doing the SALVAGE list.
If you are submitting an entry, please include all the obvious contact
information such as full name and address of the place (duh) as well as
phone numbers, fax, email, website, and so on.
I might also be including a brief description of each yard - limited to one
sentence or two - that will help potential buyers. But I WILL NOT be
including any personal opinions about said establishments. I think after
recent discussions on this listserver - that should be obvious !
For example, facts that can be helpful such as "does not pick or ship parts"
or "has an abundance of late 50's DeSotos" will likely be included with a
listing. But statements such as "that guy is my hero" or "they suck" will
not be included.
Get it ?
If anyone has any questions - lemme know. I think that should give
everyone good enough idea of what we are doing here to provide club members
with a new resource. Just have your info ready to submit in a few weeks
time.
We just had our first frost here in Virginia - so it's time I headed back to
the yards myself now that the vast, endless squadrons of mosquitos are all
dead !
Happy Pickin',
Sean.
_________________________________________________________________
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Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 05:56:27 -0700
From: <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: nicely equipped 62 Newport
Hello list,
I'd like to grab this one myself, but I'm trying to control myself and pass it on to the list.
In the town of Reading, MA there appears to be a nice, low-mileage, highly optioned 62 Newport 4dr hardtop. I can get more details if anyone is interested.
The car is sort of Carmel colored, has an older Vermont registration sticker, and odometer reads 48K miles. It is equipped with factory a/c, power seats, windows, and Auto-pilot cruise control.
Front seat needs to be reupholstered. Nice straight body, but there is rust in the bottoms of the front fenders that was poorly bondoed and resprayed the original color. Chrome is decent, really nice vent window frames, pretty clean undercarriage.
I saw it in the rain yesterday so I didn't spend too much time checking out every inch, but rockers and quarters seemed ok. Very clean engine compartment.
There was noone at home at the time, but the sign says it needed brake and exhaust work, and was to be sold as is for $1995 or best offer. Between my 57C, 61G and my wifes 62 NYer wagon, I just don't know what I'd do with it.
If it were a non-letter 300 2dr in this condition with these options it would already be in my yard, but I don't know when we'd ever use a Newport 4 dr compared to the fun cars we already have.
I don't have particulars on the drive train, but it currently has a single exhaust, so it may be a 383 2bbl car (maybe even 361?).
It's one of those 'in-between' cars, way too nice to part out, but not really fun enough or valuable enough to put a lot of time or effort into.
If anyone is interested, let me know and I can find out more and try and get a phone number for you.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:48:36 -0500
From: Leggatt <leggatt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300 f power source
Hi Wayne,
All the 60 instrument dome wiring diagrams are pre-production. I've
never seen one that is correct. It is really no big deal anyway.
Typically, and for many years, dome, map, glovebox and trunk lights
were powered by the "pink wire networks". Power comes from either the
"aux." terminal on the headlight switch or the fuse block. Pink wire
power is continuous, not switched and runs to the various lamp sockets.
The yellow ground wires from the sockets are the only ones that are
switched.
Lack of power is usually a bad circuit breaker within the H/L
switch, a blown fuse or a disconnection.
Greg.
Wayne Wunderlich wrote:
>Hi Group,
>
>Have been trying to get the dome and map lights working in my F. The ground
>wires all seem to be correct but can't find the power source.
>
>Have looked in two manuals, one manual does not show the power source and
>the other shows it coming off the map light switch, which in my car is not
>correct.
>
>Anyone have any ideas ????
>
>Thanks,
>
>Wayne
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 12:06:05 -0800
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Some further info regarding headlight replacements. First to qualify myself I've been in this business for 33 years and have sold lighting for that entire time period.
There have been two versions of the sealed beam headlight. After the first one was introduced there was one improvement made in about 1958. That improvement actually raised the driving speed to 35 mph before you started to over run your lights capabilities. The main reason that nothing went further than that is major manufacturers in the USA didn't want to pay royalties to the Europeans who had developed far better lighting to go with the performance of their vehicles. Remember the Autobahn where there is no speed limit, well a lot of technology came from areas just like that where things such a lighting, braking and overall handling had to be better to accommodate the higher driving speeds. In Larry Jetts original e-mail he mentioned Hella. For those of you who are not familiar they are a very large European company and do a good portion of the OE lighting for cars from that part of the world. They also do lenses, so next time you look at a German cars tail lights read the stamp on them and you will see HELLA. They also supply the big three with some lighting in this country.
Back in the 70's there was actually one state in the USA that went against the Federal Government and would not enforce the sealed beam lamp only. The reasoning for this was that state felt that it was such a "safety issue" they were correct. Finally there was enough pressure put on the Feds that they backed off. That is when you started to see rectangle lights and then Halogen sealed beams being offered by the big three. The American light manufactures were trying to by some time.
Today sealed beams have become a thing of the past. Look at any new car and you will see a much higher tec lighting system. Now you see the major USA companies offering upgraded bulbs just for these application. I will grant you see some companies bring not so great stuff in from the orient and I personally don't recommend most of these.
Also you see on primarily high end cars the (HID) High Intensity Discharge lighting. I've owned a couple of cars with these and I can tell you they are phenomenal in performance. One car we purchased had this as a $500 option and I went for it when the car was ordered as I'm such a believer. Currently it is the closest thing to natural sun light you can get and that is what the human eye works best with. Trust me, drive a car with them and you won't believe the difference.
Now the issue of blinding on coming cars. If any of these lights are aimed properly you won't have that problem. You will also find they are very easy to align without a machine. All you need is a level area, a wall and about 20 feet. A good quality halogen or HID light has very definite lines for cut offs. In fact, some HID set ups actually have a self leveling within about 5 seconds after they are turned on. Also they run on very high voltage and will kill you if you put your hands in the wrong spot. Factory cars with this option are clearly marked under the hood with a stern warning.
At this time I don't recommend purchasing any HID system for a car that didn't come from the factory with it. There is an enormous amount of engineering that goes into those systems. On the other had the halogen (separate bulb) replacements are easy to install, aim and you will be amazed and the performance and safety difference.
I've run this type of lighting in my daily drivers for years and have never been sited and have never blinded anyone either. Also I've even installed this type of lighting in some of my collector cars that I drive a lot, simply because my eyes aren't what they use to be and I want to be as safe as possible for others and myself.
John Lazenby
----- Original Message -----
From: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Hi all:
Not being approved by DOT does not surprise me, BUT, for which applications?
Apparently, if John Lazenby's company handles them, they are approved for
something. Why not adapt them for our uses. If aimed properly, they should
bother no one and provide additional lighting on our side of the road.. If we use
them on our 300's, how many of us drive them at night on mountainous roads
anyway? Come to think of it, they would have come in handy in Montana when
there was no speed limit! Maybe we could not have out driven our headlights.
It took years for them to approve Halogen headlamps when they were in use in
Europe many years before we could use them. Now how many cars on the road
have them?
By the way, I purchased some Halogen tail light bulbs for my 300F from John
and they make a BIG difference in the lights from the rear.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:42:03 -0800
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
I too have a couple of newer autos(Jaguar and Lexus) with "HID" headlites
and I totally agree with you on their value. This however only makes it
worse for me when I drive my old Corvette or 300.
The question that I ask and I am not sure that was answered in your very
informative missive, was what to install in my B(large seal beamed light)
and my Corvette(smaller dual light system) to at least get a somewhat step
up in lighting performance.
Were the old "bulls eye" lights any better? At least they would look
somewhat appropriate in the B and look cool. Do not know how readily
available they are today however.
Roger
300 B Calif.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
Cc: "Rick ROYZE" <royze@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Some further info regarding headlight replacements. First to qualify myself
I've been in this business for 33 years and have sold lighting for that
entire time period.
There have been two versions of the sealed beam headlight. After the first
one was introduced there was one improvement made in about 1958. That
improvement actually raised the driving speed to 35 mph before you started
to over run your lights capabilities. The main reason that nothing went
further than that is major manufacturers in the USA didn't want to pay
royalties to the Europeans who had developed far better lighting to go with
the performance of their vehicles. Remember the Autobahn where there is no
speed limit, well a lot of technology came from areas just like that where
things such a lighting, braking and overall handling had to be better to
accommodate the higher driving speeds. In Larry Jetts original e-mail he
mentioned Hella. For those of you who are not familiar they are a very
large European company and do a good portion of the OE lighting for cars
from that part of the world. They also do lenses, so next time you look at
a German cars tail lights read the stamp on them and you will see HELLA.
They also supply the big three with some lighting in this country.
Back in the 70's there was actually one state in the USA that went against
the Federal Government and would not enforce the sealed beam lamp only. The
reasoning for this was that state felt that it was such a "safety issue"
they were correct. Finally there was enough pressure put on the Feds that
they backed off. That is when you started to see rectangle lights and then
Halogen sealed beams being offered by the big three. The American light
manufactures were trying to by some time.
Today sealed beams have become a thing of the past. Look at any new car and
you will see a much higher tec lighting system. Now you see the major USA
companies offering upgraded bulbs just for these application. I will grant
you see some companies bring not so great stuff in from the orient and I
personally don't recommend most of these.
Also you see on primarily high end cars the (HID) High Intensity Discharge
lighting. I've owned a couple of cars with these and I can tell you they
are phenomenal in performance. One car we purchased had this as a $500
option and I went for it when the car was ordered as I'm such a believer.
Currently it is the closest thing to natural sun light you can get and that
is what the human eye works best with. Trust me, drive a car with them and
you won't believe the difference.
Now the issue of blinding on coming cars. If any of these lights are aimed
properly you won't have that problem. You will also find they are very easy
to align without a machine. All you need is a level area, a wall and about
20 feet. A good quality halogen or HID light has very definite lines for
cut offs. In fact, some HID set ups actually have a self leveling within
about 5 seconds after they are turned on. Also they run on very high
voltage and will kill you if you put your hands in the wrong spot. Factory
cars with this option are clearly marked under the hood with a stern
warning.
At this time I don't recommend purchasing any HID system for a car that
didn't come from the factory with it. There is an enormous amount of
engineering that goes into those systems. On the other had the halogen
(separate bulb) replacements are easy to install, aim and you will be amazed
and the performance and safety difference.
I've run this type of lighting in my daily drivers for years and have never
been sited and have never blinded anyone either. Also I've even installed
this type of lighting in some of my collector cars that I drive a lot,
simply because my eyes aren't what they use to be and I want to be as safe
as possible for others and myself.
John Lazenby
----- Original Message -----
From: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Hi all:
Not being approved by DOT does not surprise me, BUT, for which applications?
Apparently, if John Lazenby's company handles them, they are approved for
something. Why not adapt them for our uses. If aimed properly, they should
bother no one and provide additional lighting on our side of the road.. If
we use
them on our 300's, how many of us drive them at night on mountainous roads
anyway? Come to think of it, they would have come in handy in Montana when
there was no speed limit! Maybe we could not have out driven our
headlights.
It took years for them to approve Halogen headlamps when they were in use in
Europe many years before we could use them. Now how many cars on the road
have them?
By the way, I purchased some Halogen tail light bulbs for my 300F from John
and they make a BIG difference in the lights from the rear.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:55:09 -0800
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Roger and all,
First I don't think the "bulls eye" lights are better other than looking more time period. Bottom line everything back then compared to today's offerings is just terrible.
There are 7" replacements for a car with a two headlight system and also 5 3/4" four headlight set ups. They simply bolt in and have replaceable bulbs. The look is somewhat different in that the lenses on these are more flat than round. A good number of street rod guys use them once again I guess for looks to a degree, but more for performance.
If you wish to upgrade the bulbs to higher output they are also available, but I don't think it is necessary as it will tax your electrical system more and they also produce more heat. If you are driving a competition car that is moving through the air the higher output is okay. In some cases heat will actually crack the lenses. Also remember that competition cars electrical systems are designed to handle the extra load.
Remember if you are going to drive your car go to the halogen units. If you are concerned about a show and correctness it is an easy change over done in just a matter of minutes.
John Lazenby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dan300f@xxxxxxx>; "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Rick ROYZE" <royze@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
> I too have a couple of newer autos(Jaguar and Lexus) with "HID" headlites
> and I totally agree with you on their value. This however only makes it
> worse for me when I drive my old Corvette or 300.
>
> The question that I ask and I am not sure that was answered in your very
> informative missive, was what to install in my B(large seal beamed light)
> and my Corvette(smaller dual light system) to at least get a somewhat step
> up in lighting performance.
>
> Were the old "bulls eye" lights any better? At least they would look
> somewhat appropriate in the B and look cool. Do not know how readily
> available they are today however.
>
> Roger
> 300 B Calif.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
> Cc: "Rick ROYZE" <royze@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
> Some further info regarding headlight replacements. First to qualify myself
> I've been in this business for 33 years and have sold lighting for that
> entire time period.
>
> There have been two versions of the sealed beam headlight. After the first
> one was introduced there was one improvement made in about 1958. That
> improvement actually raised the driving speed to 35 mph before you started
> to over run your lights capabilities. The main reason that nothing went
> further than that is major manufacturers in the USA didn't want to pay
> royalties to the Europeans who had developed far better lighting to go with
> the performance of their vehicles. Remember the Autobahn where there is no
> speed limit, well a lot of technology came from areas just like that where
> things such a lighting, braking and overall handling had to be better to
> accommodate the higher driving speeds. In Larry Jetts original e-mail he
> mentioned Hella. For those of you who are not familiar they are a very
> large European company and do a good portion of the OE lighting for cars
> from that part of the world. They also do lenses, so next time you look at
> a German cars tail lights read the stamp on them and you will see HELLA.
> They also supply the big three with some lighting in this country.
>
> Back in the 70's there was actually one state in the USA that went against
> the Federal Government and would not enforce the sealed beam lamp only. The
> reasoning for this was that state felt that it was such a "safety issue"
> they were correct. Finally there was enough pressure put on the Feds that
> they backed off. That is when you started to see rectangle lights and then
> Halogen sealed beams being offered by the big three. The American light
> manufactures were trying to by some time.
>
> Today sealed beams have become a thing of the past. Look at any new car and
> you will see a much higher tec lighting system. Now you see the major USA
> companies offering upgraded bulbs just for these application. I will grant
> you see some companies bring not so great stuff in from the orient and I
> personally don't recommend most of these.
>
> Also you see on primarily high end cars the (HID) High Intensity Discharge
> lighting. I've owned a couple of cars with these and I can tell you they
> are phenomenal in performance. One car we purchased had this as a $500
> option and I went for it when the car was ordered as I'm such a believer.
> Currently it is the closest thing to natural sun light you can get and that
> is what the human eye works best with. Trust me, drive a car with them and
> you won't believe the difference.
>
> Now the issue of blinding on coming cars. If any of these lights are aimed
> properly you won't have that problem. You will also find they are very easy
> to align without a machine. All you need is a level area, a wall and about
> 20 feet. A good quality halogen or HID light has very definite lines for
> cut offs. In fact, some HID set ups actually have a self leveling within
> about 5 seconds after they are turned on. Also they run on very high
> voltage and will kill you if you put your hands in the wrong spot. Factory
> cars with this option are clearly marked under the hood with a stern
> warning.
>
> At this time I don't recommend purchasing any HID system for a car that
> didn't come from the factory with it. There is an enormous amount of
> engineering that goes into those systems. On the other had the halogen
> (separate bulb) replacements are easy to install, aim and you will be amazed
> and the performance and safety difference.
>
> I've run this type of lighting in my daily drivers for years and have never
> been sited and have never blinded anyone either. Also I've even installed
> this type of lighting in some of my collector cars that I drive a lot,
> simply because my eyes aren't what they use to be and I want to be as safe
> as possible for others and myself.
>
> John Lazenby
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
> Hi all:
>
> Not being approved by DOT does not surprise me, BUT, for which applications?
> Apparently, if John Lazenby's company handles them, they are approved for
> something. Why not adapt them for our uses. If aimed properly, they should
> bother no one and provide additional lighting on our side of the road.. If
> we use
> them on our 300's, how many of us drive them at night on mountainous roads
> anyway? Come to think of it, they would have come in handy in Montana when
> there was no speed limit! Maybe we could not have out driven our
> headlights.
>
> It took years for them to approve Halogen headlamps when they were in use in
> Europe many years before we could use them. Now how many cars on the road
> have them?
>
> By the way, I purchased some Halogen tail light bulbs for my 300F from John
> and they make a BIG difference in the lights from the rear.
>
> Dan Reitz
> Northridge, CA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:19:33 -0800
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Roger and all,
I also should state that I currently have all of these in stock. Pricing is
as follows:
7" $40.01 each complete
5 3/4" $ 38.38 each complete for either low or hi/low beam.
We also accept all major credit cards. Anyone needing further info please
e-mail me privately at john@xxxxxxxxx
John Lazenby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dan300f@xxxxxxx>; "Johnl"
<john@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Rick ROYZE" <royze@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
> I too have a couple of newer autos(Jaguar and Lexus) with "HID" headlites
> and I totally agree with you on their value. This however only makes it
> worse for me when I drive my old Corvette or 300.
>
> The question that I ask and I am not sure that was answered in your very
> informative missive, was what to install in my B(large seal beamed light)
> and my Corvette(smaller dual light system) to at least get a somewhat step
> up in lighting performance.
>
> Were the old "bulls eye" lights any better? At least they would look
> somewhat appropriate in the B and look cool. Do not know how readily
> available they are today however.
>
> Roger
> 300 B Calif.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
> Cc: "Rick ROYZE" <royze@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
> Some further info regarding headlight replacements. First to qualify
myself
> I've been in this business for 33 years and have sold lighting for that
> entire time period.
>
> There have been two versions of the sealed beam headlight. After the
first
> one was introduced there was one improvement made in about 1958. That
> improvement actually raised the driving speed to 35 mph before you started
> to over run your lights capabilities. The main reason that nothing went
> further than that is major manufacturers in the USA didn't want to pay
> royalties to the Europeans who had developed far better lighting to go
with
> the performance of their vehicles. Remember the Autobahn where there is
no
> speed limit, well a lot of technology came from areas just like that where
> things such a lighting, braking and overall handling had to be better to
> accommodate the higher driving speeds. In Larry Jetts original e-mail he
> mentioned Hella. For those of you who are not familiar they are a very
> large European company and do a good portion of the OE lighting for cars
> from that part of the world. They also do lenses, so next time you look
at
> a German cars tail lights read the stamp on them and you will see HELLA.
> They also supply the big three with some lighting in this country.
>
> Back in the 70's there was actually one state in the USA that went
against
> the Federal Government and would not enforce the sealed beam lamp only.
The
> reasoning for this was that state felt that it was such a "safety issue"
> they were correct. Finally there was enough pressure put on the Feds that
> they backed off. That is when you started to see rectangle lights and
then
> Halogen sealed beams being offered by the big three. The American light
> manufactures were trying to by some time.
>
> Today sealed beams have become a thing of the past. Look at any new car
and
> you will see a much higher tec lighting system. Now you see the major USA
> companies offering upgraded bulbs just for these application. I will
grant
> you see some companies bring not so great stuff in from the orient and I
> personally don't recommend most of these.
>
> Also you see on primarily high end cars the (HID) High Intensity Discharge
> lighting. I've owned a couple of cars with these and I can tell you they
> are phenomenal in performance. One car we purchased had this as a $500
> option and I went for it when the car was ordered as I'm such a believer.
> Currently it is the closest thing to natural sun light you can get and
that
> is what the human eye works best with. Trust me, drive a car with them
and
> you won't believe the difference.
>
> Now the issue of blinding on coming cars. If any of these lights are
aimed
> properly you won't have that problem. You will also find they are very
easy
> to align without a machine. All you need is a level area, a wall and
about
> 20 feet. A good quality halogen or HID light has very definite lines for
> cut offs. In fact, some HID set ups actually have a self leveling within
> about 5 seconds after they are turned on. Also they run on very high
> voltage and will kill you if you put your hands in the wrong spot.
Factory
> cars with this option are clearly marked under the hood with a stern
> warning.
>
> At this time I don't recommend purchasing any HID system for a car that
> didn't come from the factory with it. There is an enormous amount of
> engineering that goes into those systems. On the other had the halogen
> (separate bulb) replacements are easy to install, aim and you will be
amazed
> and the performance and safety difference.
>
> I've run this type of lighting in my daily drivers for years and have
never
> been sited and have never blinded anyone either. Also I've even installed
> this type of lighting in some of my collector cars that I drive a lot,
> simply because my eyes aren't what they use to be and I want to be as safe
> as possible for others and myself.
>
> John Lazenby
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
> Hi all:
>
> Not being approved by DOT does not surprise me, BUT, for which
applications?
> Apparently, if John Lazenby's company handles them, they are approved for
> something. Why not adapt them for our uses. If aimed properly, they
should
> bother no one and provide additional lighting on our side of the road..
If
> we use
> them on our 300's, how many of us drive them at night on mountainous roads
> anyway? Come to think of it, they would have come in handy in Montana
when
> there was no speed limit! Maybe we could not have out driven our
> headlights.
>
> It took years for them to approve Halogen headlamps when they were in use
in
> Europe many years before we could use them. Now how many cars on the road
> have them?
>
> By the way, I purchased some Halogen tail light bulbs for my 300F from
John
> and they make a BIG difference in the lights from the rear.
>
> Dan Reitz
> Northridge, CA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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>
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>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:32:35 -0500
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
www.car-part.com is another one that claims to list all the yards - but it
certainly isn't foolproof as you can imagine.....
I don't think the info they get from every yard is - ahem - 100% factual.
S
>From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
>Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 04:53:01 -0700
>
>Has anyone out there besides me used www.junkyards.com ?
>You can actually list the part you are looking for and the junkyards will
>call you!!
>Got my 57 Generator this way.
>John
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: PaddyCaddy . [mailto:paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:30 PM
>To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] SALVAGE YARD DIRECTORY
>
>
>
>OK guys - here goes.
>
>Being a masochist when it comes to my personal workload and perpetual
>projects, I've roped myself into another one and agreed to compile a state
>by state list of salvage yards that will eventually be available to any
>club
>member via the website and/or in the newsletter once it's "done." By
>"done"
>I mean that I'll be ready to present it to the Club by the end of the year.
> So we'll all have a good six weeks or so to contribute. I'm not sure
>I'll be babysitting it after that - so you'll need to contact me within
>that
>time frame. I'll include every listing I get - from or about any yard
>worldwide.
>
>I've coordinated with the powers that be in the club to start compiling
>this
>list once the next newsletter is mailed out - which they predicted would be
>in about 3 weeks. There will be an ad in that newsletter with my address
>requesting input from everyone who cares to contribute. That way I can get
>all the input from online sources at the same time I get mail from people
>not on the internet.
>
>SO PLEASE DO NOT START SENDING ME ANYTHING NOW. IT WILL BE DELETED TO
>KEEP
>THIS INBOX FROM FILLING UP.
>
>I'll be setting up a special email address for this specific purpose, and
>will let you know soon what it is when to start submitting stuff to it.
>
>The guidelines that me and the club brass have agreed to are as follows:
>
>Only yards that have parts for any Mopar vehicles UP TO 1970 will be put
>onto the list.
>
>Please DO NOT send me new reproduction parts dealers. Only places that
>have
>used parts and/or parts cars will be included. If someone wants to
>compile
>a separate list of, say, NOS suppliers or repro dealers - be my guest.
>I'm
>doing the SALVAGE list.
>
>If you are submitting an entry, please include all the obvious contact
>information such as full name and address of the place (duh) as well as
>phone numbers, fax, email, website, and so on.
>
>I might also be including a brief description of each yard - limited to one
>sentence or two - that will help potential buyers. But I WILL NOT be
>including any personal opinions about said establishments. I think after
>recent discussions on this listserver - that should be obvious !
>
>For example, facts that can be helpful such as "does not pick or ship
>parts"
>or "has an abundance of late 50's DeSotos" will likely be included with a
>listing. But statements such as "that guy is my hero" or "they suck"
>will
>not be included.
>
>Get it ?
>
>If anyone has any questions - lemme know. I think that should give
>everyone good enough idea of what we are doing here to provide club members
>with a new resource. Just have your info ready to submit in a few weeks
>time.
>
>We just had our first frost here in Virginia - so it's time I headed back
>to
>the yards myself now that the vast, endless squadrons of mosquitos are all
>dead !
>
>Happy Pickin',
>
>Sean.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
>Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
>providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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>
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Want to check if your PC is virus-infected? Get a FREE computer virus scan
online from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:33:05 EST
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Black Magic on the Steering Committee
The shop manual is totally useless in describing how to take the slack out of
the power steering pump belts on 60 and newer Mopars. Mr. Merritt sells a
"tool" for the adjustment of this Machiavellianistic device but includes zero
instruction manual, assuming that we all know how to procede. We Dont! I have
taken apart 6 of these and all of them are missing what must have been
included as OEM, some sort of rubber gadget to stuff in the valley between the
attaching bracket and the pump itself. If, indeed, there is a rubber spacer needed
other than the hunk of radiator hose I have always defaulted to, shouldn't
Goers or the Club make new ones? Every single pump I have ever seen has nothing
down in the Valley of Old Grease except what somebody has juryrigged as a
field expediant over the years. Now I know this subject has been broached before
but I suspect the Elders that have arisen as teachers haven't really got the
message across and some of the "we", the students, haven't had the courage to
say.....I don't get it. Well, I am admitting it......I don't get it. Maybe
this is like the child that finally said....The Emperor has no clothes!! Could
someone construct a "how-to" article for the Club News perhaps? Andy always
needs something and this would be usefull for all the years left on these great
autos of ours. It is possible that this has been done in the early years of
the Club. Anybody archieve an explanation and care to share in what News it
may have been?
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 23:36:35 +0100
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
>Remember if you are going to drive your car go to the halogen units.
>
I had some problem with halogen sealed beams on my '57 .. It could be
disastrous for me and the car .. And i'm not the only one , 2 of my
friends (with halogen sealed beams installed in lieu et place of the
standard beams) had the same dangerous thing:
I drove my car (with 2 other persons in the car) at night on a very
narrow road in the country (dark night), so speed was low, maybe 20 mph.
Suddenly, black-out ! The four headlights (i was in high beams) shut off
with all gauges and speedo light . I brake immediatly and stop at 1
meter of the ditch along the road (the braking wasn't at this time very
"straight"). While braking i withdraw the hi-low beam foot switch w/o
result. After 2 second (but it seems it was a 1 mn..) the light goes on.
My friends were not very happy .. I switch again to "high beam" but
without driving.. 10 s later the lights went out ! So i put in low beam,
drove the car at very low speed (fortunately i was only at 1 mile from
the house). I don't know if some of you had already "test" this
black-out but i assume it's very very impressionable to be in the deep
darkness.
Seems that the circuit breaker built in the light switch was overload
with the current of the 4 halogens. I think that when overload this
thing opens, closes, opens, etc.. but not im my case ! It opens and
remains open... I suspect also the foot control but i've no way to
proove it.
I put a big relay on the hi-beam circuit and now no problem.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:37:30 EST
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Reaction to Lazenby's prices
5 3/4"? $ 38.38 each complete for either low or hi/low beam. "These from
Lazenby" OR, you can pay $61.20 each for these at Year One. Isn't it nice to
have a choice? Sort of like the springs I bought from Eaton before the Club took
over pricing and lowered the cost significantly.
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 17:28:05 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Black Magic Steering - reply
Hi Larry,
Yes ! Machiavellianistic is one good way to describe this Fahrfegnugenly
stupid p/s system - only takes second place to the Center-Plane brakes ! I
also have seen some verrry interesting "solutions", from various sizes,
shapes and forms of pieces of wood wedged in there, to metal weldings of one
type or another, even once a Coke can crushed into place.
The (non-authentic) solution is actually quite simple - throw the damn thing
away and replace it with a SOLID p/s pump mount, such as what should be
installed on your 300F . These p/s pump mounts are either available in
junkyards or from, going by memory, brand-new repro's made by Hoffman's .
Once solid mount is installed - no more problems, no more cockeyed pump
assemblies and sideways belts, no more funny noises.
John Hertog
Sag Rainy Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: <Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 5:33 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Black Magic on the Steering Committee
The shop manual is totally useless in describing how to take the slack out
of
the power steering pump belts on 60 and newer Mopars. Mr. Merritt sells a
"tool" for the adjustment of this Machiavellianistic device but includes
zero
instruction manual, assuming that we all know how to procede. We Dont! I
have
taken apart 6 of these and all of them are missing what must have been
included as OEM, some sort of rubber gadget to stuff in the valley between
the
attaching bracket and the pump itself. If, indeed, there is a rubber spacer
needed
other than the hunk of radiator hose I have always defaulted to, shouldn't
Goers or the Club make new ones? Every single pump I have ever seen has
nothing
down in the Valley of Old Grease except what somebody has juryrigged as a
field expediant over the years. Now I know this subject has been broached
before
but I suspect the Elders that have arisen as teachers haven't really got the
message across and some of the "we", the students, haven't had the courage
to
say.....I don't get it. Well, I am admitting it......I don't get it. Maybe
this is like the child that finally said....The Emperor has no clothes!!
Could
someone construct a "how-to" article for the Club News perhaps? Andy always
needs something and this would be usefull for all the years left on these
great
autos of ours. It is possible that this has been done in the early years of
the Club. Anybody archieve an explanation and care to share in what News it
may have been?
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:52:15 -0800
From: "Johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
Hi Philippe,
I just reviewed my books regarding amperage draw and they show a standard
sealed beam and a "Halogen Sealed Beam" requiring the same amount of amps.
Don't know why you had the problem.
The units I'm referring to in all of my previous e-mails are not Sealed
Beams, but have a replaceable bulb.
John L.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philippe Courant" <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Yahoo List Server" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Lefty's "BRIGHT" idea
>
>
>Remember if you are going to drive your car go to the halogen units.
>
I had some problem with halogen sealed beams on my '57 .. It could be
disastrous for me and the car .. And i'm not the only one , 2 of my
friends (with halogen sealed beams installed in lieu et place of the
standard beams) had the same dangerous thing:
I drove my car (with 2 other persons in the car) at night on a very
narrow road in the country (dark night), so speed was low, maybe 20 mph.
Suddenly, black-out ! The four headlights (i was in high beams) shut off
with all gauges and speedo light . I brake immediatly and stop at 1
meter of the ditch along the road (the braking wasn't at this time very
"straight"). While braking i withdraw the hi-low beam foot switch w/o
result. After 2 second (but it seems it was a 1 mn..) the light goes on.
My friends were not very happy .. I switch again to "high beam" but
without driving.. 10 s later the lights went out ! So i put in low beam,
drove the car at very low speed (fortunately i was only at 1 mile from
the house). I don't know if some of you had already "test" this
black-out but i assume it's very very impressionable to be in the deep
darkness.
Seems that the circuit breaker built in the light switch was overload
with the current of the 4 halogens. I think that when overload this
thing opens, closes, opens, etc.. but not im my case ! It opens and
remains open... I suspect also the foot control but i've no way to
proove it.
I put a big relay on the hi-beam circuit and now no problem.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:22:12 EST
From: c300c@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Reaction to Lazenby's prices
Hi All!
Bought my Halogens from the local Western Auto store for $8.95 each. They
were exact replacements for the 4 light system on my 300-C, and they work great.
No blackouts and they use less wattage than OEM lights.
300'ly, Gary Hagy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 12:05:47 +1000
From: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: member's "BRIGHT" ideas
May I commend John Lazenby on his excellent comments re halogen versus other
light options for our 300s.
I joined the 300 Club mainly to 1) get detail of my 300Cs, and 2) to get
some dollar medallions for my cars, of which I need 7. The medallions have
suddenly sold out, and I have not made time to send etchings oy my 3 data
plates - so so much for why I joined nearly a year ago - do I need to get my
act together better??!!.
Atop this, some of you may have guessed I am pretty burned up about DC using
the 300C designation on their new 'creation', and despite me months ago
asking the Club, I am pretty sure, they never officailly wrote as the Club,
'recognised protector of 300', to DC saying they/we dissaprove.
My membership is coming due soon, and I am/was thinking 'stuff the Club' if
they can't take something as 'basically 300' as just writing to DC, then I
do not wish to be associated with it formally. (I mean all I asked was
write formally - at least we would have tried, sought some acknowledgement)
And then along come all the great individual members (the Lazenbys, Gil
Cunningham, Grafens, etc, too many to mention) who take time to help with
all manner of '300 things', be it better lighting, salvage yard directories,
prior car ownership history, mechanical advice, etc..
So for now I intend renewing my membership when due, but if no formal letter
went to DC, the Club made a mistake. Here in Australia, Ford listened to
much of what no doubt many others than myself 'wore away' at them - and they
changed, once again built cars Ford owners, others, wanted - sales booming
again.
If DC choses to ignore it's possibly most die hard, Chrysler devotees,
wishes, re their new 300C, then maybe Daimler have their own agenda. But if
they were never formally told, then we finally really only have ourselves to
blame??!!
You may think I am stupid/obssessed, but trust me, as a genuine AC Cobra
owner for 27 years, the public confusion about owning real 300Cs versus the
new pretender is only just starting - never mind (maybe today) no one knows
what a real 300C is, wait until they think what you own, are taliking about,
is this new thing. Do not comment now, wait a year or two, to see if I am
wrong !!
To all those sick of my comment re this issue, if I stay on as a member,
hopefully I will become more and more invisible in this space, as I quickly
move through the remaining usual 300C fobiles, pecularities.
As a final comment - how about the mailed Club magazine including some of
the mechanical tips/advice, not to mention maybe half page coverage of
member's cars, or 300 achievements, other relevant 300 stuff? At hgalf a
page, per topic, if include 4-6 per issue, not take up too much space, not
bore too much those who own different letter cars? The site is excellent,
but not everyone notes/keeps everything on the site, can find it when needed
even if they do?
Aussie Christopher
_________________________________________________________________
Hot chart ringtones and polyphonics. Go to
http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilemania/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:43:11 -0800
From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 413 Cam Clearance
Working on our 1962 300, which has a 1964 413 under the hood. I'm wanting
to know if anyone has had any clearance problems with the following specs
under the hood:
Valve Lift: Intake = .458", Exhaust = .470"
Duration: Intake = 208 degrees, Exhaust = 214 degrees
Timing Opening: Intake = 5 degrees ATC, Exhaust = 42 degrees BBC
timing Closing: Intake = 33 degrees ABC, Exhaust = 8 degrees BTC
Looking to use a stock length pushrod and just wondered if I may have any
clearance issues...
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
(323) 468-4619
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 03:39:49 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 413 Cam Clearance
If the valve stem installed height is within specs and an excessive amount
has not been milled from the heads or the block, the stock length pushrods
will be fine. You should check the rocker arm to valve stem clearance to be
sure.
Mike
At 08:43 PM 10/27/2003 -0800, jennifer allyn wrote:
>Working on our 1962 300, which has a 1964 413 under the hood. I'm wanting
>to know if anyone has had any clearance problems with the following specs
>under the hood:
>
>
>
>Valve Lift: Intake = .458", Exhaust = .470"
>
>Duration: Intake = 208 degrees, Exhaust = 214 degrees
>
>Timing Opening: Intake = 5 degrees ATC, Exhaust = 42 degrees BBC
>
>timing Closing: Intake = 33 degrees ABC, Exhaust = 8 degrees BTC
>
>
>
>Looking to use a stock length pushrod and just wondered if I may have any
>clearance issues...
>
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>
>Matt Allyn
>(323) 468-4619
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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