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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Part # For 1960 300 F Cam
From: TNHARKINS@xxxxxxx
2. removal
From: bjljbl2@xxxxxxx
3. Address Change
From: "Paul Weihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. power break vacuum reservoir
From: William Barrie <blueweststudio@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: power break vacuum reservoir
From: DC300G@xxxxxxx
6. power break vacuum reservoir - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. disc brake swap
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. F camshaft query
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: disc brake swap
From: "rpjasin" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. my 300k hurt i need parts
From: greektruck@xxxxxxx
11. Re: my 300k hurt i need parts
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. mopar engines
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: mopar engines
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: disc brake swap
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:13:20 EST
From: TNHARKINS@xxxxxxx
Subject: Part # For 1960 300 F Cam
Hi Folks:
First, let me say thanks to all you guys who offered to assist me in
identifying the correct part # for the cam shaft in my 300 F.
I was able to clean most of the "gunk" off the alleged original cam
that was given to me in a box of "parts" by the previous owner.
The following is what I have been able to decipher from the shaft itself:
3D28 D3 2129804
The consensous of opinions from the list members was the correct part # as
described in the 1960 Parts Catalog is #2129203. The previous owner just
recently advised me that when the engine was rebuilt in 1998, they used a cam shaft
out of a junked New Yorker 413 since they could not locate a specific cam for
the 300. I do not have any paperwork from the rebuilder which would indicate
the part # for the cam he installed.
So, now the question is, do I believe the part # supplied by the members or
the part # I just discovered on the cam which is supposed to be the original? I
am open to advice guys.
Thanks,
Tom Harkins
300s4ever
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:31:07 EST
From: bjljbl2@xxxxxxx
Subject: removal
can you please remove me from the list. Thanks Jerry Lynn
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:20:19 -0600
From: "Paul Weihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Address Change
Please change my e-mail to pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 13:41:42 -0800 (PST)
From: William Barrie <blueweststudio@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: power break vacuum reservoir
Dear friends,
I have tried every concievable way to mount the vacuum reservoir tank where the diagram in the manual shows it to go; under the battery tray, and yet, no mounting holes seem to line up,nor do the bracket bends coinside with the contours of the space. When I purchased my "G", the car was apart and it came with two identical reservoir tanks.The integral attaching brackets are bent in the exact same manner on both, so I did not suspect they needed re-bending in any way.The tank is a cylinder about 12 inches long.
One flange has a 90 degree bend in it with three holes ( one is elongated and the other two are round with a 1and1/4 inch center to center spaceing. The other flange is 12 inches long with a slight bend in the last two inches with a hole. The tank looks to be about the same shape as the one in the 1960 chrysler repair manual,but the flanges are different. Do I have the wrong tanks or am I overlooking something else?.
Thanks
Barrie Oblinger
P.S. If they are the wrong tanks, anyone
have a trade or one for sale?
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:09:23 EST
From: DC300G@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: power break vacuum reservoir
Barrie, sounds like you have the right tank it gets mounted inside the
drivers side front fender on the studs that hold the inner fender to the radiator
support if you need me to take a picture and send it to you let me know. Dave
Clelland
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:57:57 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: power break vacuum reservoir - reply
Hi Bill,
Yes, Dave Clelland is 100% right - the tank mounts INSIDE the driver's side
wheelwell, all the way at the front, to the rad. support bolts.
I am curious about one thing - you state: "where the diagram in the manual
shows it to go; under the battery tray,..." ; what manual are you referring
to ? if it's the service manual page 5-1, it's wrong, shows a '57 type
installation.
The supply vacuum hose for the reserve tank will run from the booster, all
the way forward, under the battery tray, thru the rad. support, and thru a
hole in the front fender to mate up with the intake nipple on the vacuum
tank.
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Barrie" <blueweststudio@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "300club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 4:41 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] power break vacuum reservoir
Dear friends,
I have tried every concievable way to mount the vacuum reservoir tank
where the diagram in the manual shows it to go; under the battery tray, and
yet, no mounting holes seem to line up,nor do the bracket bends coinside
with the contours of the space. When I purchased my "G", the car was apart
and it came with two identical reservoir tanks.The integral attaching
brackets are bent in the exact same manner on both, so I did not suspect
they needed re-bending in any way.The tank is a cylinder about 12 inches
long.
One flange has a 90 degree bend in it with three holes ( one is elongated
and the other two are round with a 1and1/4 inch center to center spaceing.
The other flange is 12 inches long with a slight bend in the last two inches
with a hole. The tank looks to be about the same shape as the one in the
1960 chrysler repair manual,but the flanges are different. Do I have the
wrong tanks or am I overlooking something else?.
Thanks
Barrie Oblinger
P.S. If they are the wrong tanks, anyone
have a trade or one for sale?
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 20:33:12 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: disc brake swap
Hi to all,
Now that it's colder, it's harder play with the cars, and I have a little
more time to work on with the computer. I finally uploaded and organized
pictures and text to the disc brake conversion I did to a 1961 Chrysler
300G. Please read on.... I'll post a link at the end of this e-mail ;
those that were at the Fall meet saw the car there, and I popped a front
wheel off at the show so that the conversion could be examined. The car now
stops straight and true at any speed, time and time and time again. I have
done a few panic stops from 100 mph with both hands off the wheel and behind
my neck. The car stayed in its lane each and every time.
First, let me state that this is a CHEAP conversion, using all Mopar
components that are readily available just about anywhere. No fancy stuff
here, just a good dependable system. The spindle and steering arm were
obtained from Club member Murray Park (mbpark@xxxxxxxxxx) who assures me he
has oodles and oodles still available.
Second - this system will only work using 15" wheels, on LONG WHEELBASE
Chryslers. There are currently two commercial systems that will work on
either SWB or LWB Chryslers and allow you to use 14" wheels.
Third - all it takes is THREE bolts removed, and the brake hose
disconnected, to remove the disc setup and return the car to 100% stock.
There are NO modifications at all made to the car. Only the disc brake
parts were modified, as per illustrations and text.
Fourth: I made NO modification to the hydraulic system. The car still runs
its original, single-reservoir master cylinder.
Fifth and last: DISCLAIMER : I take no responsibility for any damage,
injury, accident, or problems that might arise from anyone performing this
conversion to their vehicle ! The article is F.Y.I. only . Anybody
choosing to perform the same modification DOES SO AT THEIR OWN RISK !!!
And - here's the link:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/jhstuff/discbrake/mopar/disc.html
300'ly and enjoy
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 14:22:52 +1300
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: F camshaft query
Hi there folks,
Query: What is wrong with the Club's F & G camshafts.......if anything!
I have one, which I got some years back.
Tom Harkins is looking for one for his F, as you will know......and seemed to have some concerns about the 'reground' bit.
I just looked at mine,not yet installed..... and although there are numbers stamped in several places, nothing looks like a MoPar 7 digit part number.
Does anyone have first hand experience of the Club's reground camshafts for the F & G ?
What are they reground from? A 440??
Does 'reground' mean not much good?
I can't believe it can be no good at all, or our Club would not be selling them.
Thanks 300 lovers.........
Dave in New Zealand.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:27:45 -0800
From: "rpjasin" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: disc brake swap
John,
Fantastic article! You are to be commended for the effort and a job well done! Great photos and well written...
Bob J
Grateful 300G owner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 23:47:17 EST
From: greektruck@xxxxxxx
Subject: my 300k hurt i need parts
please everyone, i am jumping the gun here, but i know from the start, i need
for my k, solid pieces please, driver outer and inner fender, hood, chrome
trim around grill, the two L end pieces aroundteh grill i was looking for and
finally found a couple months ago, chrome chrysler trim strip on hood, long
metal piece that goes above the bumper below the grill- the piece that is body
color and is length of bumper. and teh metal plate in front of the remote brake
booster under the fender. the chrome trim around wheel opening of front driver.
light holders, and trim. radiator support. fan.
basically i need everything but the bumper, brackets for the bumper, and
maybe the passenger fender inner and outer. i may not need those because although
they are out, they may be in spec still, wont know until the shop checks it
out.
i may need a sub frame because mine is twisted and partly on the floor, but
maybe they can pull that too.
But i do need those parts, and i will have the shop cut the person a check,
so there is no problems in that department. please elp ya'all. thanks, tim
i will tell you all when anchorauto.com has the pictures of teh car up, tim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 23:49:46 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my 300k hurt i need parts
Hi Tim,
Assuming the repair is being paid for by the other party (the car that hit
you) - the best thing to do is to tell your collision shop to call Desert
Valley Auto Parts in Phoenix and have them ship you everything you need.
They have good rust-free parts and plenty of them , especially as far as
sheetmetal.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <greektruck@xxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 11:47 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] my 300k hurt i need parts
please everyone, i am jumping the gun here, but i know from the start, i
need
for my k, solid pieces please, driver outer and inner fender, hood, chrome
trim around grill, the two L end pieces aroundteh grill i was looking for
and
finally found a couple months ago, chrome chrysler trim strip on hood, long
metal piece that goes above the bumper below the grill- the piece that is
body
color and is length of bumper. and teh metal plate in front of the remote
brake
booster under the fender. the chrome trim around wheel opening of front
driver.
light holders, and trim. radiator support. fan.
basically i need everything but the bumper, brackets for the bumper, and
maybe the passenger fender inner and outer. i may not need those because
although
they are out, they may be in spec still, wont know until the shop checks it
out.
i may need a sub frame because mine is twisted and partly on the floor, but
maybe they can pull that too.
But i do need those parts, and i will have the shop cut the person a check,
so there is no problems in that department. please elp ya'all. thanks, tim
i will tell you all when anchorauto.com has the pictures of teh car up, tim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:14:37 -0800
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: mopar engines
Interesting sit if club members didn't know. Mopar engines only. Chuck try
it!!
www.allpar.com/mopar.html
_________________________________________________________________
Groove on the latest from the hot new rock groups! Get downloads, videos,
and more here. http://special.msn.com/entertainment/wiredformusic.armx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 00:24:47 -0800
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: mopar engines
Fantastic website. Great historical information. Follow some of the links
to see where they take you. You can spend hours here.
Roger Schaaf
Calif
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 10:14 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] mopar engines
Interesting sit if club members didn't know. Mopar engines only. Chuck try
it!!
www.allpar.com/mopar.html
_________________________________________________________________
Groove on the latest from the hot new rock groups! Get downloads, videos,
and more here. http://special.msn.com/entertainment/wiredformusic.armx
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 00:31:05 -0800
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: disc brake swap
Will this technique work on earlier models such as 55 and 56? They are 15
inch wheels as you know.
Roger Schaaf
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hertog" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Club Listverver" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "John J. Hertog" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 5:33 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] disc brake swap
Hi to all,
Now that it's colder, it's harder play with the cars, and I have a little
more time to work on with the computer. I finally uploaded and organized
pictures and text to the disc brake conversion I did to a 1961 Chrysler
300G. Please read on.... I'll post a link at the end of this e-mail ;
those that were at the Fall meet saw the car there, and I popped a front
wheel off at the show so that the conversion could be examined. The car now
stops straight and true at any speed, time and time and time again. I have
done a few panic stops from 100 mph with both hands off the wheel and behind
my neck. The car stayed in its lane each and every time.
First, let me state that this is a CHEAP conversion, using all Mopar
components that are readily available just about anywhere. No fancy stuff
here, just a good dependable system. The spindle and steering arm were
obtained from Club member Murray Park (mbpark@xxxxxxxxxx) who assures me he
has oodles and oodles still available.
Second - this system will only work using 15" wheels, on LONG WHEELBASE
Chryslers. There are currently two commercial systems that will work on
either SWB or LWB Chryslers and allow you to use 14" wheels.
Third - all it takes is THREE bolts removed, and the brake hose
disconnected, to remove the disc setup and return the car to 100% stock.
There are NO modifications at all made to the car. Only the disc brake
parts were modified, as per illustrations and text.
Fourth: I made NO modification to the hydraulic system. The car still runs
its original, single-reservoir master cylinder.
Fifth and last: DISCLAIMER : I take no responsibility for any damage,
injury, accident, or problems that might arise from anyone performing this
conversion to their vehicle ! The article is F.Y.I. only . Anybody
choosing to perform the same modification DOES SO AT THEIR OWN RISK !!!
And - here's the link:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/jhstuff/discbrake/mopar/disc.html
300'ly and enjoy
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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