Re: [Chrysler300] Brute Bunders

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the story Gary.  Its little things like that we don't notice
on a quick inspection.   I was a Fire Chief for 15 years and got to see
a lot on vehicles burn up.  When investigating the cause of the fires
especial motor homes  was the rubber hoses on the pressure side of the
fuel pump to the carburetor.   I have since converted all of my vehicles
to solid steel lines on the pressure side and the filter goes on the
suction side.  If the rubber hose starts to leak it just starts sucking
air and the car just gradually starts starving for fuel but no fires.
Now if you have electric fuel pump. " Check you fuel lines more often."
          Just my way of doing things, but no fires so far.
Gary Barker



We live in the hot, dry desert southwest and rubber deteriorates pretty
fast. I have been using what I consider to be quality rubber products from
Gates Rubber. Even Gates fuel line has been showing premature aging,
however. For slip on, clamped applications, we have switched almost
exclusively to fuel injection hose from Gates. The FI hose does not appear
to crack quite so fast. My observation through the years has been that hose
brands other than Gates crack even faster. Even with outer surface cracking,
we have had no fuel leaks.

FI hose is a somewhat stiffer product and will bend around a curve with less
collapsing than regular fuel line. The working positive pressure ratings for
Gates Safety Stripe II fuel line for sizes below 7/16" are 50 PSI. The
MPI/fuel injection hose line is a short line, 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameters
and is service positive pressure rated at 180 PSI. The Safetry Stripe II and
MPI/fuel injection hose lines are red lined at 15% MTBE concentration in big
bold lettering by Gates in their catalog. The Gates catalog states that
their FI hose has a different liner material than what is shown for Safety
Stripe II hose. But, the liner that may be different one type to the other
is not where I have seen problems so far; only the outer cover.

For a lot of years, Ford used a short length of hose right at the
carburetor. GM engineering says the line from the fuel pump to the
carburetor will be steel not rubber. IMO pressure lines should be double
flared steel or double clamped slipped on hose if there is no way around
using rubber under pressure (like frame to engine and definately not right
at the carburetor). We have seen a lot of engines with patched over fuel
lines, leaking fuel hoses at the carburetor and no fire and we do not know
why. Of course, after a fuel fire in an RV there won't be much left to bring
to us to fix. A real neat smallish bubble can be made at the end of a steel
tube for slip over connections using the first stage tools for a double
flare. Full double flare stretches the hose too much.  Proper tube deburring
and a bubble on the end of the tube with double clamps has worked well for
us. Just cleaned out two carburetors for two different customers with hose
shards in the needle/seats and one was a pro installation. Deburring the
tube ends is a must.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ

We have seen this topic pop up in the posts on our tech internet group and
FI hose is where a lot of shops are going.



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