low hot oil pressure

[Sharon Stoll <chrybstn@xxxx>]

Hi Karl
I've found that often low hot oil pressure is caused from a plugged pickup screen.Usually full of valve seals or timing gear parts. Old hard seals will breakup if engine sees high rpm near valve float. We all know 300's never see high rpms......right?
Howard



Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

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> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> There are 13 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: Oil pump removal
> From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx>
> 2. Re: Oil pump removal
> From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxx>
> 3. Re: Suspension parts needed
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> 4. Re: Oil pump removal
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> 5. Re: Oil pump removal
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> 6. Issues with 10-40
> From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx>
> 7. Re: Oil pump removal
> From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxx>
> 8. spring meet in RI
> From: slick wolf <goldenlion413@xxxx>
> 9. C300 flywheel
> From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxx>
> 10. Re: C300 flywheel
> From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxx>
> 11. Rhode Island Meet
> From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxx>
> 12. For sale 1956 Dodge Royal
> From: Johnal & Cindy Holst <holst@xxxx>
> 13. Unsubscribe for a month.
> From: ivan.regos@xxxx
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 06:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
>
> Hi Karl,
>
> The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of the
> motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The screen
> is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
> DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big blocks
> have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
> without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
> crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as you
> have, no such problem.
>
> What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual oil
> pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew the
> sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
> readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
> thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
> pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
> it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a LOT,
> the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
> clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
> clogged.
> It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
> that usually go first. That means the motor will
> probably require a total rebuild.
>
> For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get an
> oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
> number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of the
> 10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
> quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
> low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
> high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on the
> oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace the
> oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
> highest capacity and filters the smallest particles on
> the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second and
> that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
> just don't know of any other place that sells the
> kits. When you get the results back, if you have high
> metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
> this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
> some time, how much depends on how bad your engine is
> now.
>
> Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any more
> questions regarding this.
>
> 300ly Russ Vaughan
>
>
> --- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> > screen from the side of
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > right?
> >
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > after the motor warms up and
> > need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> > looking at main bearings
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > sits right on the lower
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > when first started up,
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> >
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> > getting a bit
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> > made no difference.
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> >
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> >
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
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> > http://messenger.msn.com
> >
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> >
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>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:20:44 -0400
> From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
>
> Karl,
> First thing you need to do is check the oil pressure with a mechanical
> gage. You can't rely on the dash one to give you a completely accurate
> reading. If it checks out OK change the sending unit, they are prone to
> leakage and inaccurate readings.The oil pump can be changed without dropping
> the pan, the screen can not. What manual says you can remove the screen from
> the side of the block? It's impossible, as the oil pump pickup and screen is
> threaded into the block inside the pan. Dropping the pan on a car with rams
> also requires removing the front exhaust system, as the balance tube runs
> right under the pan. Low oil pressure after warm up is generally a sign of
> loose bearing clearances.
> 300ly,
> Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx>
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:46 AM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal
>
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and screen from the side
> of
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that right?
> >
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure after the motor warms up
> and
> > need to check the pump and screen before I consider looking at main
> bearings
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator sits right on the lower
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where when first started up,
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> >
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am just getting a bit
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil made no difference.
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> >
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Suspension parts needed
>
> Carslisle is July 12-14 2002
>
> --- Py426Hemi@xxxx wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I
> > could find front suspension
> > rebuild kit for my 65,300, I also including in that
> > kit should be change out
> > parts from drums
> > to disc brakes plus what I should pay for something
> > like this. I am also
> > looking for aftermarket quarter panels both sides
> > for the same car. I am not
> > to worried about show quality on the panels because
> > this car is my daily
> > driver.
> >
> > does anyone know when is Chryslers at Carlisle? I
> > hope I did not miiss it.
> >
> > Thanks for your help!
> >
> > Wes Vanaman
> >
> >
>
> =====
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
>
> install a mechanical oil gauge to get a true reading
> and go from there .
>
> --- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> > screen from the side of
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > right?
> >
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > after the motor warms up and
> > need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> > looking at main bearings
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > sits right on the lower
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > when first started up,
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> >
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> > getting a bit
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> > made no difference.
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> >
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> >
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> > http://messenger.msn.com
> >
> >
>
> =====
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:17:40 -0700 (PDT)
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
>
> Want is wrong with 10w40 motor oil?
>
> --- Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi Karl,
> >
> > The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of
> > the
> > motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The
> > screen
> > is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
> > DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big
> > blocks
> > have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
> > without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
> > crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as
> > you
> > have, no such problem.
> >
> > What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual
> > oil
> > pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew
> > the
> > sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
> > readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
> > thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
> > pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
> > it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a
> > LOT,
> > the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
> > clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
> > clogged.
> > It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
> > that usually go first. That means the motor will
> > probably require a total rebuild.
> >
> > For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get
> > an
> > oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
> > number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of
> > the
> > 10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
> > quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
> > low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
> > high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on
> > the
> > oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace
> > the
> > oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
> > highest capacity and filters the smallest particles
> > on
> > the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second
> > and
> > that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
> > just don't know of any other place that sells the
> > kits. When you get the results back, if you have
> > high
> > metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
> > this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
> > some time, how much depends on how bad your engine
> > is
> > now.
> >
> > Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any
> > more
> > questions regarding this.
> >
> > 300ly Russ Vaughan
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> > > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump
> > and
> > > screen from the side of
> > > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > > right?
> > >
> > > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > > after the motor warms up and
> > > need to check the pump and screen before I
> > consider
> > > looking at main bearings
> > > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > > sits right on the lower
> > > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > > when first started up,
> > > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> > >
> > > It's been doing this for some time now and I am
> > just
> > > getting a bit
> > > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the
> > oil
> > > made no difference.
> > > Any hints or suggestions?
> > >
> > > Karl
> > > 61 300G
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> > > http://messenger.msn.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > >
> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > For list server instructions, go to
> > > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> > http://health.yahoo.com
> >
>
> =====
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 08:13:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx>
> Subject: Issues with 10-40
>
> Hi group, for those of you who asked, I quickly found
> this article in a web search. I took the applicable
> excerpt, but those who want to read further, the
> entire text is at:
>
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
>
> "Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up
> frequently in discussions between motorheads, whether
> they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The
> following article is intended to help you make a
> choice based on more than the advertising hype.
> Oil companies provide data on their oils most often
> referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an
> average of the actual physical and a few common
> chemical properties of their oils. This information is
> available to the public through their distributors or
> by writing or calling the company directly. I have
> compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so
> that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite
> oil is not on the list get the data from the
> distributor and use what I have as a data base.
>
> Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil.
> More specifically, it is the property of an oil to
> develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing
> stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued
> resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a
> higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity.
> This is the most important property for an engine. An
> oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film
> strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a
> viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low
> temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm.
>
> The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers
> assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive
> Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real"
> viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques.
> These measurements are taken at specific temperatures.
> Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5,
> 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil
> meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is
> therefore suitable for Winter use.
>
> Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are
> added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent
> the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold
> temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the
> oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil
> warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains
> that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it
> normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C
> the oil has thinned only as much as the higher
> viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at
> multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight
> oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would
> when hot.
>
> Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements
> in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use
> a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity
> that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going
> to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the
> lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer,
> the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can
> shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring
> sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require
> a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve
> that range. This has caused problems in diesel
> engines, but fewer polymers are better for all
> engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general,
> are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due
> to the high polymer content. It is the oil that
> lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their
> job with the fewest additives are the best.
>
> Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and
> some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was
> not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50
> is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts
> with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index
> improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can
> formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity
> index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30.
> Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30,
> and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your
> manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
> appropriate for your vehicle.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 11:22:45 -0500
> From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
>
> That does seem to be the general consensus, along with replacing the 10/40
> in there with some straight weight 30 (is 40 ok?). I've received some very
> good and also quite interesting information on this subject.
>
> It never ceases to amaze me as to just how little I actually know about
> these cars and related issues. I will endeavor to keep the list informed as
> to the results of the pressure gauge thingy, AFTER I change the oil.
>
> Again, thanx to all that took the time to respond and contribute their
> information.
>
> Karl
> '61 300G
>
> >From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>
> >To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal
> >Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >install a mechanical oil gauge to get a true reading
> >and go from there .
> >
> >--- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> > > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> > > screen from the side of
> > > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > > right?
> > >
> > > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > > after the motor warms up and
> > > need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> > > looking at main bearings
> > > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > > sits right on the lower
> > > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > > when first started up,
> > > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> > >
> > > It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> > > getting a bit
> > > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> > > made no difference.
> > > Any hints or suggestions?
> > >
> > > Karl
> > > 61 300G
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> > > http://messenger.msn.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >=====
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> >http://health.yahoo.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 23:50:46 -0400
> From: slick wolf <goldenlion413@xxxx>
> Subject: spring meet in RI
>
> Sorry,
> Can't make the meet have issues with my parking brake hanging up and
> creating way too much heat under the car. I will have it apart for some
> time until I figure out what is wrong . I am also getting one hell of a
> vibration from the rear end. Have a wonderful time here in RI
> Steve Menard
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:29:22 -0400
> From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxx>
> Subject: C300 flywheel
>
> Hi all. Took my C300 in to get the starter rebuilt and as it turn out that wasn't the main problem. I need to replace the flywheel. Anybody know where I can get one?
>
> Jerry Browarski
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:58:21 -0400
> From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxx>
> Subject: Re: C300 flywheel
>
> Hi Jerry,
> Chrysler powerflites (and torqueflites) do not have a separate "flywheel".
> The ring gear is a light press fit and is welded to the torque converter.
> Actually, it is recommended that the ring gear be heated so It will go on
> without pressing. You will have to find an old transmission shop who can do
> the job.
> 300ly,
> Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry <mopar-man@xxxx>
> To: Chrysler 300 Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 8:29 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] C300 flywheel
>
> > Hi all. Took my C300 in to get the starter rebuilt and as it turn out
> that wasn't the main problem. I need to replace the flywheel. Anybody know
> where I can get one?
> >
> > Jerry Browarski
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:59:31 -0400
> From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxx>
> Subject: Rhode Island Meet
>
> Hello Everyone, my name Is Larry Meixner, a new club member and I will be attending the meet in Rhode Island arriving on Friday evening. I won't have my 300G since it's still a basket case- but like they say- Moses was once a basket case too! I hope to meet with someone that evening so I have a "guide" to what's going on. I couldn't get a room at the same hotel as the club, so I'm staying a few miles away. If anyone has a phone number that I can call when I get there, I would appreciate it greatly. Thanks and hope to meet Ya'll then, Larry Meixner gr8hirt@xxxx
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 21:30:39 -0600
> From: Johnal & Cindy Holst <holst@xxxx>
> Subject: For sale 1956 Dodge Royal
>
> Looked at this car this weekend sitting along the hiway at Elliston,
> Montana
>
> 1956 Dodge Royal 4 dr body fairly straight some rust on left rear
> wheel well
> owner said floor boards also rusted. He had started on resto but
> health problems forces sale
>
> lots of good chrome, 270 hemi, engine was not in running condition
>
> vin 12 1313 050 825 372 534 2 , owner says engine nos. match
>
> asking $1200
>
> owner phone no. 406-492-7172 please call him directly
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:11:24 +0200
> From: ivan.regos@xxxx
> Subject: Unsubscribe for a month.
>
> Hi, if I want to unsubscribe for a month should I write here or at
> "Unsubscribe"
> Sincerely Ivan/Sweden...
>
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