RE: [Chrysler300] home Steering wheel restoration

[Mark Souders <souders@xxxx>]

Mike,
I'm using a Newport wheel for my H until I can afford to send off my clear
wheel for restoration. I went to Fall Carlisle and checked out Eastwood's
Steering Wheel Repair Kit. It's nothing more that PC7 Epoxy mix and some
sandpaper and instructions. So, instead of spending $21.95 for their kit, I
just went to my local Ace Hardware store and bought the PC7 mix for $6.
I used the PC7 to repair the Newport wheel cracks in much the same manner
you did with the JB Weld. The big difference is the viscosity of the mix.
The JB Weld is really runny and you have to baby-sit it while it sets up.
The PC7 is much stiffer and stays where you put it. I used a thin plastic
putty knife to apply the mix to the cracks. I had everything from hairlines
to gaping 1/2" voids. After I applied it I waited about 10 minutes and
then, with a cup of water, wet my fingers and smoothed out the compound to
conform to the contour of the wheel. The water keeps the goo from sticking
to your fingers and also gives it a very smooth finish. Don't use too much
water. It was much like working pottery clay. There will be some light gray
residue on the surface, let it there, it disappears as it dries. This
worked well for the smooth front as well as the finger bumps, and even for
the tight radius where the arms meet the rim, let your finger follow the
contour. The next day all I had to do was some light sanding with some fine
paper and then a few days later I primed it. I was really happy with the
results, although I didn't paint it yet.

Mark Souders


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Vath, Michael J. [SMTP:mjvath@xxxx]
> Sent:	Tuesday, January 07, 2003 10:31 AM
> To:	'SADuggan@xxxx'; CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject:	[Chrysler300] home Steering wheel restoration
> 
> I just did my first wheel repair. Short of funds, I used JB Weld 2-part
> epoxy. It worked very well for a driver, though it must be painted.
> The '57 wheel had chunks missing up to 3/4"-wide...so I used masking tape
> to
> form a mold around the face of the rim. Then - with wheel face-down on the
> kitchen table - I dropped-in the mixed glue batter; filling the tape mold
> to
> the level of the finger grips. When freshly mixed, the stuff flows well at
> room temperature.
> Once dry (next-day) the tape peels off cleanly. Any ridges can be easily
> (patience + light touch) sanded with 220-grit paper. A flat file works
> well
> at showing high spots.
> Once the face is good, the finger bumps can be built-up various ways: a
> blob
> of clay (or silly putty) to form a mold/barrier, masking tape -- or --
> allowing the epoxy to get pretty stiff then applying it and forming it by
> hand (flour keeps it from sticking to fingers) into the little bumps. Once
> formed, turn wheel face-side-up to dry. Gravity will still cause a bit of
> glue movement, so flip the wheel every 15 minutes or so 'til dry. (its a
> fun
> drinking game).
> Rounded files and several grits of sandpaper (and that patience thing) can
> then be used to form/smooth presentable repairs. A bit more
> patience/creativity is necessary where the cracks are odd-shaped or really
> narrow. Dentist-like removal/drilling of healthy plastic might be
> necessary
> to get enough sticking-area for the schmutz.
> When considering how damn cold it is outside -- this isn't as bad as it
> sounds. Just don't let your cat step on the epoxy palette.
> 
> So far my $5.95 repair ($10 including paint) is weathering the 29-degree
> nights and 60-degree days. No noticeable temperature cracking -- even
> where
> I used bondo to fill the little cracks. The wheel face looks great. The
> finger-bumps will take a bit more practice (next wheel will be ready
> soon!)
> but aren't as visible to the cruise-in crowd. Plus the epoxy & paint
> should
> now help stop/slow further cracking.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SADuggan@xxxx [mailto:SADuggan@xxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 9:42 AM
> To: jblken@xxxx; CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Steering wheel restoration
> 
> 
> All,
> I was watching the string on steering wheel repair in hopes that there
> 
> would be an inexpensive option for repair of the clear plasic on the 62 
> deluxe steering wheels. $950 is alot of money for a steering wheel, but 
> judging on the amount of work to do on the highest quality restoration, a 
> fair price.
> A few months ago I did some casting in clear polyester resin for a job
> 
> that turned out great. Of course there wasn't a chrome ring centered in my
> 
> casting. I've been thinking of trying my hand at doing the casting. I have
> a
> 
> good steering wheel for the mold. Hopefully this works out for me and I
> can 
> offer a cheap alternitive for the driver. Any tips from those who have
> tried
> 
> is appriciated.
> 
> Sean Duggan
> 
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