Re: [Chrysler300] RE: a common 'brakes not releasing cause'

["christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxx>]

Al classic car owners/usersnote, if not already aware.
l
Another 'brakes not releasing' cause can be the flexible rubber brake hoses 
to both front brakes, and often there is one onto the diff. 50s GM cars 
(multiple 50s Cadillac in my personal experience) quite commonly by now seem 
to restrict internally with age, the pedal pressure greater than what is 
needed to allow the fluid back after release pedal.

My experience is ALWAYS replace the front brake hoses if they look like they 
are original/old -this avoids possible non-releasing brakes dramas on a 
trip, not to mention they might fai/blow/burstl due to age.

Aussie Christopher


> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxx>
> To: 'Mark Souders' <souders@xxxx>, "'chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'" 
> <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] RE: Master Cylinder Acting Up
> Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 08:12:54 -0400
>
> Happy Friday. Fluid movement is affected by restrictions in the line -- or 
> problems with mechanical movement. After looking for kinked/rotten line, 
> Spot check one or two of the wheel cylinder / brake shoe / return spring 
> setups. Look for free movement of the brake shoes across the backing plate; 
> without restrictions in the seating/pivot recesses of the adjuster plates. 
> Look for any evidence of improper brake shoe steel contact with the drum. 
> Look also for weak/broken/missing return springs. Those stout little 
> springs exert a bunch of force that should easily push fluid back into the 
> master. The shoes and springs should definitely not wiggle. Verify that 
> your brakes aren't adjust too tight against the drums (wheels spin somewhat 
> freely).
>
> Other stuff: Peer under your dash and drip a little oil on the brake 
> pedal pivot bolts. The brake pedal should move back out easily. Check for 
> over-eager tightening at the pivot bolts.
>
> If new steel lines have been installed, its possible small shavings (from 
> the inside flare) could be jambed in the fittings; restricting flow.
>
> Within the master & wheel cylinders, the rubber cups could have been 
> installed wrong -- or contaminated to cause distortion of the seals. This 
> usually just causes leaks, and would be unlikely to stop fluid return 
> unless a whole bunch of junk accumulated in them.
>
> The spring within the master must be present. Its usually not very strong, 
> allowing easy movement of the piston prior to adding fluid to the system. 
> If an NOS master -- or a rebuilt unit sits too long, rust might also stop 
> easy movement.
> Thats all from me. Have a great weekend. mv
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Souders [mailto:souders@xxxx]
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 7:00 AM
> To: 'Frank Bakanau'; chrysler
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Master Cylinder Acting Up
>
>
> Hi,
> I have the exact same problem with my H. It's supposed to be an NOS master
> cylinder, that means it's over 40 years old. I'm thinking it must be
> replaced.
>
> Mark Souders
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Frank Bakanau [SMTP:FBAKANAU@xxxx]
> > Sent:	Thursday, May 08, 2003 8:24 PM
> > To:	chrysler
> > Subject:	[Chrysler300] Master Cylinder Acting Up
> >
> > I've replaced the wheel cylinders on my C-300 and flushed the system and
> > replaced the fluid with silicone type. (I like the silicone brake fluid
> > cuzz it does not absorb moisture which we have a lot of here on Oregon.)
> > But after I drive the car a bit, the petal gets very hard, the brakes 
> drag
> > and the stop lights stay on. Hmmm.... So I just crack the fitting loose 
> on
> > the master cylinder, I get squirt of fluid and all is fine for a while.
> > I
> > suspect it's a check valve problem in the master cylinder, but before I 
> go
> > tearing into it, anyone have sage advice?
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> >
> >
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