Mark, As a 25 year owner of a 300G, with the same basic brake setup as your 300C, let me offer a few comments. I have done my brake system twice in the time I've owned the car, and have learned a few things. First off, arcing the shoe to the drum is very important. your comments about "arcing went out with asbestos lining" is simply not the case. I don't know where you live, but there is a business about 30 minutes from where I live called Friction Materials (in Oakland CA) that I take my drums and shoes to. They mike the drum, and arc the shoe to match it. Yes, this was a more hazardous process back when linings were asbestos, but I think its been 15 to 20 years since asbestos has been eliminated from brake shoes. This company will also reline worn shoes, clutches etc. Check your yellow pages for a specialist in "friction materials". When you reassemble, lube the backing plate where the shoe rides with a high temp lube or anti-seize compound. Don't overdo it. Follow the adjustment procedure in the service manual. Fronts and rears are different cam turns for the '61, I don't know about the '57. Adjust the cams until the shoe touches the drum and stop. You should be able to rotate the wheel, but not free spin more than about a half to quarter turn. I don't allow the drum to free spin, as that creates too much pedal movement, besides the shoes will bed in after a few hundred miles and you will need to readjust once that happens. The more meat on your drums the better. I was able to find front drums that were only .020" over, .060" is max. My brakes work fine, don't pull or chatter, and are fine for the way I drive the car, I have no desire to convert to disc brakes, but others have if you want to go that route. Hope this helps, Bob J 300G Convert [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]