A trick i learned from a old mechanic on stopping oil leaks ( this works on rocker covers, oil pans and transmission pans) is to take an oversized punch and tap the back side of each of the bolt holes in the pan or cover. this makes them slightly convex on the top side. thus when the nuts are tightened additional pressure is applied out past the area of the hole and transferred to more gasket area. over tightening creates a concave area at the bolt and you get the leak back. so the proper amount of torque is critical. good luck Johnal
Doug,
When you get your new O ring, take it down to an industrial supply house and see if they can supply a "Viton" O ring in that size, it will last longer than the original type. It will cost twice as much (another 50 cents or so).
I vote for the cast-aluminum valve covers, the originals have to be straightened perfectly and tightened just so, to seal, the first time you forget and tighten the bolts you are back to square one, all over again.
Mike
At 05:27 PM 12/1/2003 +0000, dnkjones@xxxx wrote:
Hi 300 folk,
Well, the 413 transplant into my Pace Setter is one of those 'one step forward
and two steps back' affairs. I finally got to where I could put fluids in it
and two fairly familiar MoParly leaks immediately made themselves known.
1) The pushbutton shift cable where it enters the transmission housing. Where do you get a new O ring for the cable? Does that really stop the leak or are there tricks you have learned over the years to stop this thing from leaking?
2) The rear of the rocker covers, which are the old 4-stud variety that likes
to 'canoe' when attached. Oil is pouring past the nice new cork gasket on the
left rear corner. Should I go with a cast aluminum non-stock rocker cover
set, or is there a secret 300 Club way to get the oil to stay inside the cover
with the stock ones?
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