[Chrysler300] 300G Gas Tank Float

[Rich Barber <barber@xxxxxxxxx>]

Paul:

The float on my 1955 C-300 was cork and still floating fine, although 50 
years of gas had dissolved the black tar coating on it.  There is a 
slide wire resistor on mine that no longer functioned, so I took it out 
and had it rebuilt.  I was not and am not happy with the rebuild as the 
resistor installed was different than the original.  The gas gauge 
needle always flickers now and I can't believe that is normal.   I did 
have the cork float replaced with a hollow brass one and that worked 
ok.  My float was accessible through a big (factory) hole in the trunk 
floor, so replacement was easy.  I stuffed a rag into the hole while the 
float was in the shop.

I suggest you obtain a replacement sending unit and have it on hand when 
you drop your tank.  The failed unit should have core value.  I built a 
variable resistor system with fixed and variable resistors from Radio 
Shack to calibrate my gauge and found that full was 10 Ohms, Empty was 
72 Ohms.  I find that I will have to adjust the float wire angle to 
better reflect the fuel level in the tank.  You should probably do this 
before you reinstalling the removed tank.  Calibrate the fuel gauge 
first, then adjust the float wire to provide the desired resistance with 
various gasoline levels.  Please be careful.  Don't do this in a garage 
with a furnace, water heater or any sparking motor or switch.

Some or all of this information may be totally irrelevant to your newer 
car with the 12-volt system.

See attached for new gas gauge configuration (not for server).

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA (Got gas for $2.99 today)
1955 C-300


Paul Weihl wrote:

My gas gauge always reads empty, even when the tank is full.  I have checked the resistance of the tank float and it reads about 47 ohms, indicating that the tank is empty.  I then substituted a 20 ohm resistor in place of the float and the gauge reads about half. So the problem is in the float or the resistor in the float.  My question is, what is the float made of, a fiber type material that would/could get saturated, or a sealed metal "can"?  I really don't fancy the idea of having to drop the tank if there may be another way to fix the float.  Probably wishful thinking on my part.  Thanks for any help. 

Paul Weihl
300G






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