[Chrysler300] Transmission Fluids

["Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxx>]

Howdy Y'all,
Since transmission fluid use was beginning to show up once again on the 300 list server and since I've got a '65 Dodge Dart with torqueflite that I bought that I'm SURE could use a pan drop and fresh fluid, I thought I would run the whole fluids question by George Riehl, trans authority in the 300 club.
I'm attaching the way I posed the questions so you can best appreciate the very thorough answer he has given.
Thanks to George.
Y'all might want to print this for your notebook or save it to that important "maintenance" file.  
NOTE he applies this to Powerflite, early and late and later torqueflites.

Wayne
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: Wayne Graefen 
To: George
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:11 PM
Subject: trans fluid


Hi George,

I see torqueflite fluid is in play again on the list server.

Last I recall you said to use Type F in your rebuilds.  Still correct?

What about when I've got any other Mopar torqueflite from the '60s and it is down a quart or two?   
Do I add type F?
F can be hard to have in hand all the time - what about Dexron-Mercon to top out?

If you were doing a pan gasket drain and refill (including torque converter and filter) or a trans flush on a 100K mile car, what would you suggest should go back in?

And may I forward your answers to the 300 list server and the ForwardLook group?

Thanks,
Wayne 
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: George Riehl 
To: Wayne Graefen 
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: trans fluid


Hi Wayne;  

The best fluid to use in the older P/F, T/F and 727s and 904s, is type F. If F cannot be found, type FA is O.K. FA has just a little more "slip" additive.  By no means use Mercon/Dextron. After a period of use, M/D fluid will actually seperate the friction disc material from the steel backing. Most other fluids will also damage the friction material.

  In "modern" day cars, the trannys are set up to shift so that one cannot "feel" the shifting. So, the manufacturers have formulated fluids with more "slip" additive. Slippage of the friction discs causes gradual degeneration of the discs.  The "old" T/F and P/F trannys always shifteed a little harder than other auto manufacturers trannys, but they did  last longer. Generally, 70 - 100K miles, most GM trannies were shot. In the past, GM/Ford owners bought "Chryslers" and hated the "harsher" shifting and went back to other manufacturers. Chrysler trannys lasted well beyond 150+K miles. This also applies to the 727 trannys. 

  Some time ago, Chrysler Performance issued a bulletin about trans fluid and suggested that type F be used in all 727s used in competition. This was the result from the "drag" racing guys.

  The "old" Type A-Suffix A fluid was manufactured with a parrifin base material. When heated, the "wax" would turn into crystals (like rock candy) and plug the passagages in the valve bodies, resulting in trans failure.  I have found this in a number of "used" trannys that I have rebuilt that came from junkyards. One has to literally dig out the passages with a screwdriver.

  It is best to drop the pan and drain the converter. Clean the pan and scren. AND, in some cases, drop the valve body and clean it thoroughly. That will add life to a very good used tranny. And while one is at it, readjust the bands (300s, front, 2 1/4 turns, rear band, 2 turns out) after tightening down both band adhustments with about 75 inch pounds,  then lock down the nut.
It's like giving the tranny a S, S, S and then a good meal with new fluid.

  And, when replacing the pan with a new gasket, make sure that you "pound" down the raised bolt holes in the pan so the gasket seals properly. Very important!  And, please, do not use any silicone sealer. Some tend to use way too much which in turn will "squeeze" out and find the filter and plug it up. Bad news. Sometimes, even gets into the valve bodies.

  George Riehl


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