RE: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D

[Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>]

Someone mentioned tires earlier in the thread.  The only thing I was unhappy with when I bought my trailer was the tires. They looked like they belonged on a '60 Falcon or the like. After the second flat,  I bought four Michelin XCA eight ply radials to replace them.  In the same size, (205/75-14) the difference in physical looks was night and day.  The tread looks like a street tire for a Hummer. I think they were about $80 each a few years ago.  
   
  I do have to second Lee's opinion on towing.  If you tow with anything light, take it very easy. I have used Jan's 3/4 ton Suburban and it didn't hold a candle to my old Dodge 440 dually crew cab. . You really felt the weight with the Suburban, not so with the Dodge.   I now tow with a similar rig to Lee's, a '97 3500 Quad Cab Dually Diesel, last full year for the 12 valve Cummins.  Even though the torque ratings of the 440 and the Cummins were similar, the Cummins tows so much easier while getting 18 - 23 mpg.   The rear brakes are something like 13"x3"  with power to haul down the truck and trailer  very quickly.  A passenger in the truck last summer kept looking back. I thought he was worried about the car, it turns out he couldn't believe we still had anything behind us!
   
  Russ Vaughan
   
   
  
Lee Meyer <js23rob@xxxxxxx> wrote:
          Howdy, I do a lot of towing, like 50-100k miles a year or more, I think
we went over this towing thing a couple years ago but it?s probably a
good thing to revisit from time to time. So here are a few things to
consider.

A 16 foot trailer is fine if it is rated at 7000lbs. They are easier to
park and maneuver, are lighter, and cheaper. Also easier to tie a car
down in the rear sometimes because the car overhang gives plenty of room
to get under it. A big car will hang off the back a foot or so, but that
is no big deal really. Good electric brakes are a must, preferably on
both axles. The 12 inch side rails are going to be a nightmare. You will
hate them almost immediately. Get a flatbed type with plenty of tie down
spots. The side rails will make it difficult to load, tie down, and open
the doors, etc. side rails are for garbage haulers. I have put a
jillion miles on a 16 foot trailer hauling the hugest of cars, late 50s
Imperials, 300s etc. and it worked very well. I now have an 18 foot
trailer and it also works very well. I don?t think a 20 footer is
necessary, more costly, takes up more space, heavier and is harder to
maneuver and park. Heavier always translates to worse fuel mileage and
limits your available carry weight. 

What you pull it with is probably more important. Stated towing
capacities are misleading. If a vehicle is rated at 8000lb, which
basically means it is maxed out at that, and only on a nice flat road at
55 mph. It seems every time I go on a trip I have noticed there are
hills, curves, swerves and bad roads along the way. I think you can
practically chop that 8000lb rating in half to be realistic. Just
because the vehicle will pull that much doesn?t necessarily mean you
should. 

Bare minimum vehicle for pulling a loaded car hauler under any
circumstances should be a ¾ ton truck. Nobody ever wants to hear it but
that is just the way it is. I am not in charge of the laws of physics. A
half ton anything is a piece of crap. An SUV anything is a piece of
crap. A minivan is a piece of crap. A big huge 60s or 70s land barge car
is a piece of crap. Insufficient brakes, suspension, frame strength and
or chassis rigidity, power and weight are a few reasons why. The pieces
of crap mentioned will all physically pull a loaded car trailer. If you
have to do any sudden stops, quick maneuvering, have a flat tyre, or do
any evasive or emergency action your chances of ending up doomed in a
fiery crash are pretty good. Pretty much because you were either cheap
or stupid or both. 

The minimum vehicle, the ¾ ton truck will be able to pull just fine and
handle any road and or emergency issues fairly well for the part time
tow vehicle. If you will tow frequently then there is no substitute for
the 1 ton dually. Much better everything equipment-wise and rock solid
stability under any load, speed or road conditions. Virtually unaffected
by wind and weather as well. In my opinion anything gas powered is a
piece of crap as well. A diesel will get twice the mileage and 2-4 times
the engine longevity over gas. Way more power as well. I?m sure you
half ton hemi SUV guys are out there freaking out right now, thinking
you are king of the road, well you?re not. 

A stone stock dodge diesel makes twice the torque of your hemi thing and
it does it at 2000 rpm. My truck is closer to 4x. Torque is king in a
tow rig, it helps keep you alive. A big diesel truck is also very heavy.
Heavy is good, makes for a stable ride and is not too likely to be
affected by the trailer.

If you are not willing to step up to using a ¾ ton truck at least for
various reasons or you will not be towing very often then pay a pro to
haul your car. It?s cheaper in the long run, less stress etc. Less
stress on me as well, as it will minimize the chances I will have to
safely swerve out of the way of your doomed fiery wreckage.

When I was 16, I had a trailer hitch on my 70 mustang. I rented a tow
bar, hooked up to my new purchase of a 72 chevelle heavy chevy and went
down the road. The ford 351 pulled just fine! Went for my first turn and
the chevy just kept going straight, dragging the ass of the mustang over
jackknifing the whole shebang. Just because you can physically pull it
doesn?t mean you should. 

My current tow rig is a 98 dodge quad cab 3500 dually, Cummins turbo
diesel, 5 speed manual trans. I use a 10,000 lb draw tight hitch and
10,000 lb drawbar. Engine has mods, makes about 500 hp and 1000 ft lbs
of torque. It has 255,000 miles on it, still burns zero oil and gets 20
mpg.

Good luck! 

Lee in San Diego

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of JoeyPilot
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:06 AM
To: John; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D

John, you are right, the listserver does have vast experience in towing.
I 
would like to add my .02 cents also. Do not buy or use a trailer that
cannot 
carry 7000 pounds. My car trailer is 20' and my G fits good on it
without 
overhang. The trailer in my opinion must have brakes on all wheels. And
just 
as importantly, you must use a vehicle that can handle the kind of
weight 
you are going to pull. That is the car and the weight of the trailer
too. 
Mine weighs 2000 pounds itself. The Durango has lots of go with the
Hemi, 
but is maxed out at 6000 pounds tow capacity. You will be over that with
car 
and trailer together. Even my 1/2 ton Silverado is rated at 8600 pounds 
which is better; but a 3/4 ton truck is the ticket. And lastly, don't
drive 
too fast, that just spells trouble regardless of setup. Good Luck!

Joe Schmitt
Everett, WA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John" <spiers@rocketmail. <mailto:spiers%40rocketmail.com> com>
To: <chrysler300@ <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Trailering a 300D

>I am considering buying a used 16' x 6-1/2' car hauler to carry my
300-D 
>home to Florida from South Carolina. I've picked this particular
trailer 
>because the price is right- I didn't want to spend $5,000 on a custom 
>enclosed trailer I'll hardly use. The trailer has a 12 inch high fence
on 
>the front and sides, and none at the rear
>
> From the vast experience of the members of this listserver, am I going
to 
> be able to load a D on a trailer of those flatbed dimensions and a 12"

> high fence around the front & side perimeter? I know the overall width
of 
> a D is 79.6", but the front tire track is 61.2"
>
> Importantly, the bumpers will NOT be on the car. I think this will 
> affect both the maximum width and the amount of front overhang ahead
of 
> the front tires.
>
> Thanks,
> John Spiers
>
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