Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical Help

[MRS954@xxxxxxx]

Bill, It is an aluminum 727, I remember seeing a single wire to the transmission. I believe it comes from the starter relay and is brown. I will try those things you mentioned tonight.? I have checked the wires running to and from the ignition switch last night and they all appear to be good. Considering what I paid for the harnesses, they should last forever.? At the rate I'm going, I should have everything replaced by the end of the weekend.



Thanks for the advice, I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Mark




-----Original Message-----
From: whuff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>; MRS954@xxxxxxx
Cc: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical Help



If this is an aluminum 727 transmission car, then the neutral switch should be a single terminal switch found on the transmission body itself. As such it would complete the starting relay circuit to ground except when in gear. As a grounded circuit the only load is the relay pull in coil which is before the connecting wire or the neutral switch in the circuit.?
?
If a ground occurred in the wire or the switch itself the only effect would be to lose the protection of not starting in gear, i.e. the starting relay would pull in anytime the start switch was activated.?
?
If the wire is getting hot and the amp is pegging there may be a short between the neutral switch wire and another wire that has B+ voltage on it. I would begin troubleshooting with the starting relay. I don't have any electrical diagrams with me, but I believe the ignition feed that bypasses the ballast resister may come from the starting relay. Possibly the relay pull in coil is shorting out? I dunno where else to check without a diagram, but the problem is almost certainly not a short to ground in the neutral switch or it's connecting wire lead. One electrical troubleshooting tip is to pull the fuses, one by one and seeing if the condition repeats itself. Good luck, these can be tough if the condition is intermittent.?
?
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/auto/5.html?
?
Bill Huff?
?
At 7/11/200710:46 PM, Ray Jones wrote:?
>Without having the wiring diagram, It appears that the neutral Safety?
>switch or the wire to it has shorted to ground. The wire being hot is?
>due to the high current flow which the amp gauge verifies.?
>Try unplugging the wire at the switch, and see if it still pegs the amp?
>gauge. If it does not, it still won't start until you fix the problem,?
>but you can trick it by bypassing the nuetral switch.?
>Just be aware that if you bypass, the car will start in gear, so be?
>careful.?
>Ray?
>?
>?
>On Jul 11, 2007, at 8:04 PM, MRS954@xxxxxxx wrote:?
>?
>Okay, here's the latest on my electrical problem:?
>?
> I replaced the coil.?
> I replaced the condenser in the distributor.?
> I checked TDC.?
> I checked the wires inside the distributor.?
> I traced the wires that were getting hot, one went to the neutral?
>safety switch.?
> To check the safety switch I turned the key to start with the car in?
>drive.? This is what happened:?
> The starter did not engage, as expected, however, there was a noise in?
>the instrument cluster.?
> When I turn the key to the start position, the AMP gauge pegs to full?
>discharge and vibrates like crazy.?
>?
> Could the AMP gauge be my problem??
>?
> Thanks,?
> Mark?
>?
> -----Original Message-----?
> From: kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx?
> To: MRS954@xxxxxxx?
> Sent: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 12:37 pm?
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical Help?
>?
> Mark,?
>?
> ??
>?
> Did you try changing the condenser and/or checking the wires within?
>the distributor??
>?
> ??
>?
> Jim Krausmann?
>?
> Detroit?
>?
> ??
>?
> -------------- Original message --------------?
> From: MRS954@xxxxxxx?
>?
> Hi Group,?
> I'm having an electrical problem with my H.? On the way home from?
>Carlisle, we stopped for dinner. After eating, the car would not?
>start.? It would crank, but no fire.? I had gas spraying in the carbs.??
>We checked for fire coming from the coil, it was sparking. When we?
>pulled a plug wire off of a plug to check for fire, the car started. We?
>drove it the remaining 15 miles home. It won't start again.? All?
>indications pointed to a defective coil, so I replaced it. Still no?
>fire. I checked the ballast resistor, seems to be working. I replaced?
>the resistor with a known good one, and still nothing. I checked the?
>points, dressed them, and reset the gaps. The cap and rotor seems to be?
>okay.? I did notice that the blue wire to the coil gets very, very hot?
>where it goes over the brake booster, some of the insulation appears to?
>be melted. ?I thought I saw a light puff of smoke from the area of the?
>starter, but it could have been from the wire harness, which got very?
>hot while trying to start it.?
> With the key off and the battery disconnected, I have continuity to?
>ground, at the starter relay, and on the smaller?disconnected (from the?
>relay) wire to the starter. I removed the two wires from the coil and?
>both show continuity to ground.?
>?
> What would be my next step?? Has anybody?experienced?this same?
>problem?? All ideas are appreciated.?
>?
> Thanks and regards,?
> Mark Souders?
> 300H?
> Mohrsville, PA?
>?
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