Michael and all: The white stuff is most likely corrosion products and/or mineral deposits from the coolant. The combination of an aluminum radiator and an iron block creates a low-Voltage battery and requires an appropriate corrosion inhibitor in the coolant. Chevrolet found this out when the iron heads and aluminum blocks on their Vegas resulted in corrosion and failure of the head gaskets and resultant failure of the avant-garde aluminum blocks. A redesigned corrosion inhibitor in the antifreeze/coolant solved the problem, but too late to save the little Vega's reputation. The company I worked for had a unit that produced the old antifreeze using an old inhibitor package and was thrilled to get the contract to provide antifreeze for all the new Vegas--until they got sued for resultant damages. Most current antifreeze will contain a corrosion inhibitor that will protect the cooling system against corrosion and deposition, but check the label to make sure it is compatible with aluminum in the system. Some antifreeze comes with treated water already in the mix so does not require dilution. You are on the right track with distilled water, but the chemists know that traces of the right minerals will work with the corrosion inhibitor chemicals to provide the best protection. In general, I'd think water from a reverse-osmosis tap water system would be adequate. Distilled water can in itself be corrosive as it can quickly dissolve some metals. GM's premixed product is called Dexcool and was designed to do it all for a long time, but they are being sued for problems with it. See: http://tinyurl.com/2ekhfa Selecting an appropriate antifreeze and the proper source of the 50% or so water for dilution is very important for all cooling systems, especially those with aluminum components. The brass radiators seem to be a little more tolerant, but still require TLC and periodic changeout and avoidance of adding hard water and/or different brand antifreeze. A good thorough cooling system flush, followed by addition of a well-researched coolant solution should get you off to a good start. Keeping a jug of 50-50 mix of the same brand of antifreeze for topping off the system would be appropriate as would a plan to periodically inspect for goo and sludge and changeout every few years. Large industrial engines also use antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor solutions in their cooling systems. Samples are periodically taken and tested for pH (acidity), corrosion inhibitor level, glycol condition, suspended corrosion products, dissolved metals & etc. Glycols are organic compounds and do break down over time due to heat. Used/spent glycol solutions can be reclaimed by distillation and purification. Activated charcoal filters can be used to remove some of the products of glycol breakdown. I know--more than you needed to know--but I've spent a lot of time working on this subject and hope some can benefit from this dissertation. Chrysler 300 owner/operators and other classic/antique/specialty car aficionados do need to keep an eye on their (cars') cooling systems to assure clean passages, good chemistry and long life. I'd like to install an overflow bottle and special radiator cap on my 1955 to keep the upper radiator tank full and free of air but have not seen one of those kits for years. If anyone has seen one of these systems, please let me know. As it is, if I fill the tank full cold, it will burp out some of the liquid when it gets hot and pull air back into the system as it cools. The oxygen in the air then helps oxidize and degrade the glycol solution. Modern cooling systems use a surge tank to keep the system full and the surge tank also provides a place for sludge and goo to collect and drop out. That black goo is broken down glycol. C-300'ly, Rich Barber Brentwood, CA (Don't have much need for steenking antifreeze this week--other than to raise the boiling point) 1955 Chrysler C-300 Coupe-with overflow tube--hot mama in slow traffic 1986 Chrysler Turbo T&C Convertible-with overflow bottle and air conditioning -----Original Message----- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Vath, Michael J. Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:04 AM To: Chrysler 300 Broadcast Subject: [Chrysler300] aluminum parts - questions & tip pleas More aluminum chat.... What causes the white deposits on the inside of aluminum cooling passageways? I see some nasty crud on the inside of an aluminum intake's water passage. Is this from using tap water? - or is it unavoidable oxidation? Looks like a mini coral reef.. I'm changing two vehicles to aluminum radiators. I'll use distilled water, tefba filters and good grounds. Are there any other smart things to do to get/keep it right? Many thanks! vath To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/