[Chrysler300] 1957 300C rocker/sill join measurement

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Someone recently asked for the measurement of where the rear quarter panel on 300C joins onto (actually overlaps), the sill section under the doors.  On my never rusted/repaired ex Los Angeles March or April 1957 300C coupe, the measurement is near enough exactly four and a half inches where the sill is depressed in exactly one panel thickness, so the front end of the quarter panel metal can be, is, spot welded, atop the stepped in sill metal.
 
The rest of this is mainly re 300C/D/Es?, however last part might interest those doing/facing any major 300 rust repos.  
 
 
The visible rear end of the sill is slightly angled in as it was pressed in/down enough to allow the quarter panel butt it flush - the quarter panel front edge is however cut at 90 degrees, as steel normally is when cut. The resulting panels gap is about a hacksaw blade wide.
 
The measurement should not be taken right at (from) the door lower corner part of quarter panel, as there it is slightly rounded, not a sharp right angle. Take the measurement about an inch above right angle - and the measurement is obviously taken forwards !!?
 
The quarter panel is also spot welded along/at the bottom of the sill that has continued along underneath the quarter to the rear wheel arch - however it only comes in horizontally about only a total of 7/8th of an inch after turning in off the side of the car. It does NOT run right across to turned down lip.
 
KEY POINT - before starting any quarter panel fitment, make sure the sill/rocker that you have, are fitting first, runs parallel which the bottom of the chassis/frame rails, if look at car from the side.
On most rusty 300C/Ds, the body will sag lower from the cowl backwards to the rear wheel arch, if the inner rocker is rusted - can sit (whole body/cabin here) at rear of rocker up to an inch, to inch and half, lower than should - you will notice/find this if rocker bottom edge runs at downhill angle compared to lower edge of frame rail.
 
If you do not fix this by jacking body up as/before you sit new sill /rocker sections, your car will (1) be worth less when finished if/once anyone notices (2) will look side on sort of wrong somehow, 'dropped in the guts', plus doors will not align at rear horizontal edge with quarter.
 
I was going to write a rust resto beginners guide by now, but this year again time has run away more than I intended, so I apologise it not done yet.
Another key point/thought/suggestion is NEVER REMOVE ANY OTHER PANELS THAT MIGHT HELP YOU FIT ANOTHER ONE CORRECTLY - ie if quarter is to fit up to door, try and avoid removing door - if you do, mark where is was/adjusted before, so you can refit it exactly there to check how your quarter/sill fits. Obviously door should be correct before one starts, BUT A REAL TRAP RE 300C/Ds is if body has sagged, you might mistakenly think door is already out of adjustment, as it does not meet quarter real well at door lower corner say?!
 
If the car has rusted rockers here, try carefully jacking body at the bracket area that runs across floor at front of rear seat - amazingly, the before this 'wrongly adjusted' door may now fit perfectly ?!
The other trap is if cowl has rusted at sill section just at front end of door - that will drop the door down on angle, and again give a false idea the door is wrongly adjusted.
 
If getting any major sill work done on these C/D/Es, only use the very best panel replacement Shops/guys/gurus, or you may be setting yourself for major wasted $$$$$$$$, plus time, plus a badly done botched job at the end, and a 300 that somehow looks wrong, no matter how good the rest of the resto.
 
Aussie Christopher - late sun pm here now
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