Re: [Chrysler300] -'63 300 fuel/hot engine

[Mark Lindahl <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi,
 
Thanks for your information.  I just get back in town and I am reading all this good advice.
My '63 300 does not have the gasket on the hood, so I will try to get one from Gary Goers.
 
Just to clarify, the air cleaner is hot such that I can lift it off the carb, but I can't hold it in my hand for more than a few seconds.  I assume this is too hot?
 
I have checked the heat riser and it moves freely when I rev up the cold engine, so I assume it is working properly.  The engine guage shows normal to slightly above normal temperature when driving in 80 deg. F weather.  There is no signs of overheating when I am driving, so I am not sure that the rubber gasket will fix the problem.  Once I shut off the engine, the temp guage goes way up, almost to the max of the 'normal' range indicated on the gauge.  
 
In the past, I have taken off the standard top of the air cleaner and replaced it with just a flat piece that leaves the filter exposed and reduces the heat around the carb.  I think this has helped slightly.
 
I think the metal fuel filter was getting so hot that it was pushing gas past the new needle and seat that I recently installed.  Without the fuel filter, it the only fuel smell seems to be coming from the carb bowls, so I have cut the problem in half or more.
 
By the way, the radiator was recored with extra (max depth) rows/ fins.  I replaced the heads within the last two years with open chamber heads, but this heating up issue when the engine is shut off was a problem with the old heads too.  
 
Thanks for all your assistance.
Regards,
Mark Lindahl


--- On Fri, 6/19/09, yelof@xxxxxxxx <yelof@xxxxxxxx> wrote:


From: yelof@xxxxxxxx <yelof@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] Electric Fuel Pump -'63 300
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, June 19, 2009, 11:58 AM








Mark

The air cleaner should not be hot! That yours is implies there is a
problem with the air flow through the engine compartment. There was and
should be a gasket either attached to the hood or nearly the full width
of the radiator bulkhead. If it is missing or in bad condition it will
allow an amazing amount of hot air to pass over the top of the bulkhead
be pulled through the radiator again in an endless cycle of ever
increasing under hood temp and heat related problems. (If you take note
of cars from the Forties and before, they all had louvers in their hood
to help get the heat away from engine.) 

With the fuel boiling in the carb I suspect that the heat riser is stuck
at least partially or maybe fully closed. That forces raw exhaust
through the passage under the carb continuously rather than only during
cold start and warm up. The area will as hot as an exhaust manifold. 
Very detrimental to everything in the area including cooking the carb to
manifold gasket until it decomposes and leaks air which will cause
starving at idle and a general lean condition. Heat risers may be the
most neglected items on an engine. If they had been and were maintained
as they should parts would still be reddily avaiable.

Fixing the above problems may cure your your fuel issues but if needed
you can place the fuel filter in a cooler place such as low and in front
of the engine. There may be other opinions about placeing the filter
before or after the pump but one thing is certain. Placing it before the
pump prevents any debris from the tank being passed through the pump
which may cause it's failure. 

Minnesota Marshall

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 18:45:51 -0500 "Mark Lindahl"
<mplindahl@sbcglobal .net> writes:
> Hi All,
> 
> I found that the metal fuel filter was getting hot next to the hot 
> air cleaner. Perhaps the plastic ones may work better?
> This caused (in theory) the gas to expand and I watched gas pouring 
> into the carb, after the engine was shut off and very hot.
> When the fuel hit the throttle plates, it was boiling and causing a 
> major smell of gas.
> 
> I removed the fuel filter and the problem mostly went away. 
> Is it OK to relocate the fuel filter in the rubber hose, just before 
> the fuel pump?
> 
> I can hear the fuel in the bowl bubbling away, just like an old 
> coffee maker, and this is also part of the problem.
> Also, when I added the AFB 3256 and new intake manifold, I removed 
> the 'insulation blanket' in the intake well.
> I thought that this insulation may actually hurt the initial warm up 
> of the engine vs. keeping the carb cooler when the engine is hot.
> 
> Has anyone ever stuffed household insulation under a 4 bbl manifold 
> to keep the heat off the carb?
> This was my latest idea, but maybe the 'factory insulation blanket' 
> may do a better job?
> Let me know your comments.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark Lindahl
> '63 300 Conv.
> 
> P.S. With the fuel filter removed, the engine still is gasping for 
> fuel during idle, but only after the fuel seems to boil away.
> After a few minutes of driving, the engine/carb runs fine at idle 
> and at high speed.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Mark Lindahl 
> To: chrysler300@ yahoogroups. com 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 2:37 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Electric Fuel Pump -'63 300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have a AFB 3256SA on a 383 and I find that after the engine gets 
> hot, is shut off, and then sits for a while, there is some flooding 
> from the carb. This seems to be seems to be common on most of this 
> vintage Chrysler. I have replaced the needle/seat and it seems the 
> problem is cured slightly, but not entirely.
> 
> When I hold the throttle wide open, crank the engine, it seems to 
> start after a few spins.
> 
> Here is the problem- When the engine starts, it runs great at high 
> idle, but after taking my foot off the pedal, the engine stumbles at 
> low idle. I assume this is due to the mechanical fuel pump trying 
> to fill the bowl in the carb and there may not be sufficient fuel in 
> the carb to allow the engine to idle properly?
> 
> After a few minutes of driving, the idle is fine, but once in a 
> while it dies at low idle.
> When the engine is cold, there are no problems since the choke is 
> partially on.
> At high cruising speeds, there is no problem.
> 
> Will an electric fuel pump solve this problem?
> If so, what is a good one to buy and how much should I spend to 
> get a decent one?
> 
> Lastly, I assume if the electric fuel pump is used, the old 
> mechanical pump remains in the engine, but is it common to remove 
> the push rod?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark Lindahl
> '63 300 Conv.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
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