Re: [Chrysler300] Flooding of Carter 3256SA Carb - '63 300 Conv.

[lettercars@xxxxxxx]

Mark and All:
Most, if not all "B" engines (not rams and hemis) utilized an insulation  
between the valley cover and the intake manifold.  It is made of aluminum  
foil with fiberglass inside.  I made one up myself for the 300H, before I  was 
aware a friend of mine here in Tallahassee has been producing them for  
years.  It may be of help, at least Chrysler thought it  necessary----whether 
for heat or sound, or both, I don't know.  Link to the  insulation on Dave's 
web site is:
_http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Manifold_Insulation.htm_ 
(http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Manifold_Insulation.htm) 
Hope it helps.
300ly, Gil C.
 
 
In a message dated 9/9/2009 10:55:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

Hi  All,

I have tried a few things to reduce/eliminate the boiling of gas  in the 
carb bowls after hot weather driving and shut down of 383.
Within a  few minutes, the carb gets so hot that the fuel is boiling and 
flooding  occurs.  I have seen it a few times.
The engine does not run hot  during normal driving.  Temp/Gas Guage seem to 
be calibrated with temp  guage around the 1/2-3/4 mark.
At idle and normal driving speeds, the  engine runs strong.  Newer open 
chamber heads were installed about 18  months ago along with hardened seats for 
unleaded gas.  I reinstalled the  original valley pan and now have a 4 bbl. 
carb instead of the original 2  bbl.

Here is what I have tried.
Installed gasket between hood and  radiator support:  It looks good, but 
does not help my  problem.
Installed new needle/seat in carb:  Flooding still occurs,  but somewhat 
less.
Waiting for stainless steel plate to install under carb  to reduce heat 
transfer:  will advise.
I have removed the spring from  the exhaust manifold allowing for free 
movement of the valve: no change.
I  took off the heavy metal air cleaner top and now have the air filter 
exposed  using just a flat top: no change.

I also vaguely remember that some  valley pans have the the heat passages 
blocked off to not allow heat back up  to the carb.
Since I don't drive the 300 in the winter or much when it is  cold, is this 
a good idea?

Are there certain valley pans with the heat  passages cut out and some with 
them blocked off?
Any ideas would be  helpful.  

Regards,
Mark Lindahl
'63 300  Conv.

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]



------------------------------------

To send a  message to this group, send an email  to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to  
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to  http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups 
Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/