Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Socket Tume

[Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>]

I too have had this problem with sockets in the past.  If the springs 
are in good shape, you shouldn't have a big problem repairing the 
socket as others have prescribed.  My biggest problem on some of the 
older 40s-50s sockets was replacing damaged or rusted springs, the 
wrong size and you could have a short inside.  You might have to wind 
your own if needed.  Usually had to snip off the connectors outside 
the socket so the contacts could be pulled out and the socket cleaned 
up.  I usually clean the contact surface and using a soldering iron, 
melt a small bit of solder on the end to flatten it out since the 
original surface tends to be dished from years of use.  Coat 
everything liberally with that dielectric grease.

Bill Huff



At 10/31/200901:44 PM, Keith Boonstra wrote:
>
>
>OK - I dug into the whole light socket problem. Bottom line is I would
>like to buy a right side parking/turn signal housing (with socket and
>wiring) for my '57 C if someone has one. The housing had corroded
>around the socket to the point that the socket popped out of the housing
>leaving an oversize hole. The spring inside the socket was pretty badly
>rusted and stuck as well - dielectric grease would have kept this from
>happening if it were done years ago. I'd better take the other side
>apart and stop any corrosion there before I have the same problem
>again. I'll put some new springs in both sides as well. You can back
>the boot and socket up on the wires and then clean it out, spin on a new
>spring, and fill it with the dielectric grease.
>
>Thanks for your comments, all.
>
>Keith Boonstra
>
>-
>
>Richard Barber wrote:
> > While there is probably a better way, if the bulb base and socket are
> > corroded together, I've had to bust the glass and break the bulb base free
> > from the socket with a needle nose pliers. Grab the side of the bulb base
> > and twist. I've then wrapped some steel wool or Scotchpad around a drill
> > bit and polished up the inside of the socket and the contacts with a
> > variable speed drill. The springs are wrapped around the wires outside the
> > base of the socket and almost always can be made to work with 
> some WD-40 and
> > some jiggling. Be careful to clean the broken glass and steel wool out of
> > the socket before firing up the lights. I see that new cars have some sort
> > of paste in the base of the socket to prevent corrosion. Anyone know what
> > that stuff is? Seems like it should be non-conductive so maybe white grease
> > would work?
> >
> > Cleaning, polishing and doping the various sockets before they seize up
> > should help with lighting intensity, especially important on our 6-Volt
> > C-300's.
> >
> > C-300'ly,
> > Rich Barber
> > 1955 C-300
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> > Behalf Of Keith Boonstra
> > Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 2:19 PM
> > To: Gary Nelson
> > Cc: Jim McGowan; 
> <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net>2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx; bmingotti;
> > <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Rust buster
> >
> > This is sort of related. On my '57 C the right front turn/parking bulb
> > is stuck in the socket - you can't turn it to remove it. I didn't bust
> > the bulb out yet, but I think what has happened is the contact springs
> > have rusted up solid and won't push in anymore. Can I rejuvenate this
> > somehow, or am I going to have to find a replacement lamp housing for
> > that corner? Does somebody have one for me?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Keith Boonstra
> > Holland, Michigan
> >
> > Gary Nelson wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> 50% acetone, 50% ATF. I have not tried it yet, but it sounds like it would
> >> work.
> >>
> >> Gary, the parts doc
> >> Reno, Nevada 89521 USA
> >> The Biggest Little City In The World
> >> Mail: 
> <mailto:garythepartsdoc%40glnelson.com>garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
> <mailto:garythepartsdoc%40glnelson.com>
> >> 775 851-1420
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
> >> [mailto:<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>]On
> >> Behalf Of Jim McGowan
> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 9:06 PM
> >> To: 
> <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net>2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx 
> <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net>
> >> Cc: bmingotti; 
> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Rust buster
> >>
> >> Some time back someone had a formula for loosening rusty bolts. I
> >> thought I saved it but.... I have screws in some carbs that are VERY
> >> hard to loosen.
> >> Does any one have it and can send it again as I am probably not the
> >> only one that could use this info.
> >> Thanks,
> >> Jim McGowan
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________________
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> >
> >
> > 
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> >
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> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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