Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 Charging

["mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx" <mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx>]

Hi Matt,
You've referred to your voltage regulator as "electronic".  Do you mean that the system has been modified to include a solid state regulator rather than the original type mechanical regulator?  Test procedures are a little different for the two systems.  I'm assuming that you still have the original type and I'll describe a simple procedure for it.
First you will use both your voltmeter and your test light to complete the test.
1.   Establish your test terminal locations.   Locate your voltage regulator and observe that 2 wires are attached to it.  One supplies power (12v.) from the ignition switch when the ignition is in the "run" position.  The other connects at the other end to the alternator at the non-grounded brush connector (a quick disconnect plug).  The 3rd test terminal is on the alternator, the larger terminal with a nut securing the main power out lead to the terminal.
2.   The first test is with the test light.  Check for power at the main "power output" terminal on the alternator.  The light should illuminate even with the ign switch turned off.   If it does not then there must be a break in that power circuit------unlikely.
3.   Next using again the test light, turn "on" the ign switch.  Both terminals of the voltage regulator should now be powered-----approximately to battery voltage in case you prefer to check with the voltmeter.   Also at this time you should check for power at the alternator brush connector.   That will verify that you don't have a break in that wire.  If you have power on the "ign" terminal of the regulator but not on the "alt" terminal of the regulator then your regulator has failed.  If you have no power to your regulator then your fault is not in the charging system, but in the circuit from the ignition switch.
4.  If you have power all the way to the alternator through the regulator circuit then you can do a final check with the volt meter.  This is really mostly a duplication of the first test where you checked for power at the larger lead connected to the alternator's output terminal.  With the engine running at a slightly fast idle speed the voltage at that terminal should be at or only slightly above battery voltage.  If the voltage measures several volts higher than battery voltage, then you have a bad connection somewhere in that circuit and the fault is not in the alternator or regulator.
5.  If you have power at the alternator  brush connector (approx 12v.) your system voltage (battery voltage) should be pumped up to somewhere around 13.5 to 15 volts depending on battery state of charge with the engine set to a fast idle.  If your voltage is not in that range then your alternator needs attention.  
6.  You will rebuild or replace your alternator and I recommend that you install a new regulator at that time.  Alternator problems are often the result of regulator malfunctions.
Hope this helps,
Marshall Goodknight


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Matt Allyn <allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 1962 Charging
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 17:09:19 -0800 (PST)

  
Hey Gang,

My '62 300 is not charging all of the sudden; yay.
I know it is either the Alternator or the Electronic Voltage Regulator.
What are the steps I take to determine which one?

I have a voltmeter and test light.

Thanks!
 
Matt Allyn

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