RE: [Chrysler300] Gas tank grounding

["Richard Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

Grounding of the sending unit is tenuous at best without a direct hard wired
ground connection.  On our ?55 C-300, the sending unit is accessible via a
hole in the trunk floor.  I removed the sending unit, drilled a small hole
through the top plate of the sending unit and through part of the base plate
of the resistor/float mechanism, inserted a small bolt, secured it with a
nut and lock washer, set in epoxy (for a seal) on the top.  The bolt being
long enough to take a ring wire terminal and another nut and lockwasher.
Ran a wire from that bolt to a bolt head on the trunk lid latch at the rear
of the trunk and got a good ground.  The sending unit had been rebuilt
poorly with a replacement resistor and slider, but it works and jiggles all
the time.  Still struggling to find just the right O-ring to establish a
tank to sending unit seal that will not dissolve from the current
formulation of Flock Juice in the tank.  

BTW, the sending unit is date coded on the bottom 1 55.  Sounds about right
for a March 1955 Baby Brute.

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 C-300

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Kenneth Krull
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 11:12 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club Intl
Cc: Kenneth Krull
Subject: [Chrysler300] Gas tank grounding

  
Hello All
The gas gauge worked last year but not this year. The factory grounding
strap has one ear broke. I have used a cloths pin on it to make the
connection the last couple years. This year I decided to ground the tank lip
to the frame. Now the gauge does work but it reads l/8 full and I believe
the tank to be over 1/2 full.
Does the grounding need to go to the nipple coming from the pickup or should
anyplace on the tank work?
Ken Krull
New Paris, In.



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