RE: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable

["mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx" <mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx>]

The reason you should disconnect the ground cable first, reconnect the "hot" cable last is so that you don't risk shorting your circuit with your wrench as you work with the "hot" cable. 
A short circuit with good conductors (low resistance) such as a half inch box wrench will get very hot very fast with 200+amps running through it-----makes you want to turn it loose real quick!!!!!!!
Take heed of that hazard and always disconnect the ground cable when doing any kind of work on your car that might bring you in contact with a "hot" terminal, especially if you wear a watch, ring, necklace, bracelet, metal belt buckle, or maybe other hazards.  A friend of mine ignored that rule and once got a severe burn on his left wrist from contacting the power-in lead terminal of the distributor with his watchband  while the engine was running.  HE LEARNED!!!! 
Not a complex scientific theorem.
------------Marshall Goodknight
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "John Mc Adams" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <c300@xxxxxxx>, <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 05:20:01 -0700

  
Richard:

I also have one of those quick disconnect battery cable ends on my 300 Sport
Ragtop. I highly recommend them for those exciting moments when you MUST
disconnect the battery. Except for hitting the brakes and having the pedal
go to the floor, there is nothing more frightening than to smell or see
smoke escaping from some electrical wiring or component on our pride and joy
300's. You never have a wrench to remove the cable at that exact moment.
The problem that you seem to be having is probably because the "Proper" way
to disconnect a car battery is to first disconnect the Negative cable and
then the Positive. In reconnecting the cables, connect the Positive
terminal first then the last connection is the Negative cable.

I know this sounds backwards and I cannot scientifically explain why, but do
a Google and look it up. The quick disconnect terminal is made for the
Negative cable. I am not sure but as I recall, the last time I bought one,
they also make one for both terminals.

Big John Mc Adams

(In SoCal)

_____ 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Richard Barber
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 11:12 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable

I experienced a new problem today that I hope you can avoid. I had
installed one of those quick-disconnect cable ends on the (positive) ground
cable of our 1955 C-300 and it mounted neatly and worked fine. On the way
home from the 20th Annual MoPar Rally show today in nearby Fremont, CA, the
clamp-type connector just popped off the battery terminal at a highway
stoplight. Embarassing and aggravating, but easily diagnosed and fixed.
The clamp connector is made from a rather stiff brass-like material and
apparently sized for the smaller diameter negative battery post and may have
an improper taper. I remember having to tap it down to fit the larger
positive post and that it seemed tight. I have no solution for the misfit
but I may try to grind some ridges into the ID of the clamp so that it will
hold better. The clamp may have come off due to some vibration I
experienced north of 85 as I had the bias-belted L78-15 Remington tube-type
tires static balanced to avoid ugly wheel weights on the outside rims of the
Motor Wheel wires. A misteak.

There was a 10-15 minute delay at the check-in line for the show this AM and
our C-300's temp gage and the driver really got up there. After parking,
the C-300 turned into a Stanley Steamer and was boiling away nicely and
puked out a quart or so of coolant.

All this might have left me hot under the collar had our car not won first
in the 300 Class (there were five other 300's entered-including members Lee
Newman's Tango Red '55 and DeAndrea Vantree's Black C coupe-also E, K & L
coupes-a very nice mini-meet!)

This was also the first meet where I saw the Viper Red '56 Windsor
convertible that has been extremely well modified with a '56B interior and
exterior trim and grill. Members Richard Palmer and Henry Hopkins displayed
their new creation of what might have been driven by a 354 engine, replete
with Delta Wing air cleaner and AOD TorqueFlite. They displayed the car
with full disclosure that this was not a letter car but was a one of none
car-something that coulda/shoulda been. The car's personalized license
plate reads "FANTUM B". The car won first place in the "Convertible" class.

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Warren Anderson
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 1:09 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> ;
Chrysler Wagon Group; Matt Allyn
Cc: lyle.smith@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:lyle.smith%40eyeworks.tv> 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 Electrical Mystery!

- - -and, the ballast resistor will not knock out your power supply. Bad
connections at the battery will as well as a bad connection or cable
anywhere in the power supply system. 

Most seen battery cable problem is with the clamp fixit things that get
installed at the battery posts to replace bad cable ends. They are nothing
but trouble and need constant maintenance. Complete, new, high quality
cables ahould always be used when ends or cables are bad. Temp ends are high
resistance connection at best so there is a voltage drop even though enough
poop may get through to start car.

An open ballast resistor will result in a crank, start, but not run
situation. Voltage readings you posted look good. If ballast resistor
circuit goes to ground, engine could crank but not start. Or, the short to
ground could result in major wiring and ignition switch damage.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ

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