1956 was the first year that Chrysler used 12 volt negative ground systems. The one exception I can think of is on the Crown Imperial Limos and eight passenger sedans through at least 1954 used a 12 volt system but it was still positive ground. John Lazenby ----- Original Message ----- From: c300c@xxxxxxx To: mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx ; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 2:15 PM Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable Marshall, I am not sure about 1956 300-Bs, but from 1957 forward, Chryslers all use negative grounding. 300'ly, Gary Hagy In a message dated 6/7/2010 2:36:09 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx writes: I misstated the reconnect sequence. I meant to say reconnect the "hot" cable first, the reverse sequence of the disconnect. I say "hot" instead of "pos" or "neg" because our c300s are positive ground systems, making the "hot" wires negative polarity. --------------marshall ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxx> To: Chrysler 300 Broadcast <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 14:45:31 -0500 Marshall is absolutely right. If the ground is attached first, it's way too easy for the carless wrench tightening the positive cable to touch ground. But, the real reason is that a battery is a storage devise for stored energy. Electricity, the stored energy, is a strange critter, it always wants to work. So if you hook up the ground first, and one or more items in the car are on, then there will be a spark as the connector gets near the + terminal. The stored energy will "Leap" across the gap to go to work and supply the items that are on, with power. If the + terminal is hooked up, and you are attaching the -, ground, last, then the work is done and there will be no or very little spark. This really comes in play if you have run down the battery and there is hydrogen gas laying on top of the battery. A product of heavy discharge. This is also why you ALWAYS attach the + jumper cable first to the Battery and the - cable to a ground somewhere away from the battery. i had a battery blow up in my face and I knew better, but was in a hurry and careless. The watchband he tells about became the "work" since it connected the power to ground and the watchband, not being real work, created a short. A tiny light bulb is work as is a big starter motor, and the electric critter is happy dealing with them. Take the work out and just put the Positive to ground, and they call that electric welding. Or in the case above wrist burning. Ray On Jun 7, 2010, at 1:58 PM, mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx wrote: The reason you should disconnect the ground cable first, reconnect the "hot" cable last is so that you don't risk shorting your circuit with your wrench as you work with the "hot" cable. A short circuit with good conductors (low resistance) such as a half inch box wrench will get very hot very fast with 200+amps running through it-----makes you want to turn it loose real quick!!!!!!! Take heed of that hazard and always disconnect the ground cable when doing any kind of work on your car that might bring you in contact with a "hot" terminal, especially if you wear a watch, ring, necklace, bracelet, metal belt buckle, or maybe other hazards. A friend of mine ignored that rule and once got a severe burn on his left wrist from contacting the power-in lead terminal of the distributor with his watchband while the engine was running. HE LEARNED!!!! 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