RE: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable

["Gary Nelson" <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Any particular place you guys find quick disconnect batt cables. I have
never seen one.

Gary



  -----Original Message-----
  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On
Behalf Of John Mc Adams
  Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 5:20 AM
  To: c300@xxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable



  Richard:

  I also have one of those quick disconnect battery cable ends on my 300
Sport
  Ragtop. I highly recommend them for those exciting moments when you MUST
  disconnect the battery. Except for hitting the brakes and having the pedal
  go to the floor, there is nothing more frightening than to smell or see
  smoke escaping from some electrical wiring or component on our pride and
joy
  300's. You never have a wrench to remove the cable at that exact moment.
  The problem that you seem to be having is probably because the "Proper"
way
  to disconnect a car battery is to first disconnect the Negative cable and
  then the Positive. In reconnecting the cables, connect the Positive
  terminal first then the last connection is the Negative cable.

  I know this sounds backwards and I cannot scientifically explain why, but
do
  a Google and look it up. The quick disconnect terminal is made for the
  Negative cable. I am not sure but as I recall, the last time I bought one,
  they also make one for both terminals.

  Big John Mc Adams

  (In SoCal)

  _____

  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
  Behalf Of Richard Barber
  Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 11:12 PM
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Quick-Disconnect Battery Cable

  I experienced a new problem today that I hope you can avoid. I had
  installed one of those quick-disconnect cable ends on the (positive)
ground
  cable of our 1955 C-300 and it mounted neatly and worked fine. On the way
  home from the 20th Annual MoPar Rally show today in nearby Fremont, CA,
the
  clamp-type connector just popped off the battery terminal at a highway
  stoplight. Embarassing and aggravating, but easily diagnosed and fixed.
  The clamp connector is made from a rather stiff brass-like material and
  apparently sized for the smaller diameter negative battery post and may
have
  an improper taper. I remember having to tap it down to fit the larger
  positive post and that it seemed tight. I have no solution for the misfit
  but I may try to grind some ridges into the ID of the clamp so that it
will
  hold better. The clamp may have come off due to some vibration I
  experienced north of 85 as I had the bias-belted L78-15 Remington
tube-type
  tires static balanced to avoid ugly wheel weights on the outside rims of
the
  Motor Wheel wires. A misteak.

  There was a 10-15 minute delay at the check-in line for the show this AM
and
  our C-300's temp gage and the driver really got up there. After parking,
  the C-300 turned into a Stanley Steamer and was boiling away nicely and
  puked out a quart or so of coolant.

  All this might have left me hot under the collar had our car not won first
  in the 300 Class (there were five other 300's entered-including members
Lee
  Newman's Tango Red '55 and DeAndrea Vantree's Black C coupe-also E, K & L
  coupes-a very nice mini-meet!)

  This was also the first meet where I saw the Viper Red '56 Windsor
  convertible that has been extremely well modified with a '56B interior and
  exterior trim and grill. Members Richard Palmer and Henry Hopkins
displayed
  their new creation of what might have been driven by a 354 engine, replete
  with Delta Wing air cleaner and AOD TorqueFlite. They displayed the car
  with full disclosure that this was not a letter car but was a one of none
  car-something that coulda/shoulda been. The car's personalized license
  plate reads "FANTUM B". The car won first place in the "Convertible"
class.

  C-300'ly,
  Rich Barber
  Brentwood, CA

  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
  [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> ]
  On
  Behalf Of Warren Anderson
  Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 1:09 PM
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> ;
  Chrysler Wagon Group; Matt Allyn
  Cc: lyle.smith@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:lyle.smith%40eyeworks.tv>
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 Electrical Mystery!

  - - -and, the ballast resistor will not knock out your power supply. Bad
  connections at the battery will as well as a bad connection or cable
  anywhere in the power supply system.

  Most seen battery cable problem is with the clamp fixit things that get
  installed at the battery posts to replace bad cable ends. They are nothing
  but trouble and need constant maintenance. Complete, new, high quality
  cables ahould always be used when ends or cables are bad. Temp ends are
high
  resistance connection at best so there is a voltage drop even though
enough
  poop may get through to start car.

  An open ballast resistor will result in a crank, start, but not run
  situation. Voltage readings you posted look good. If ballast resistor
  circuit goes to ground, engine could crank but not start. Or, the short to
  ground could result in major wiring and ignition switch damage.

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ

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