Ron, I'll respond as follows: "You said that you found signs of moisture in your fluid. If you were using DOT 5, then that should not be possible as DOT 5 is non-hygroscopic. It doesn't absorb moisture. Any moisture that gets into the system would stay between the fluid and the brake line, possibly promoting corrosion of the line. I suspect that the corrosion that you found in your wheel cylinder is the non-absorbed moisture settling in one location" I completely agree, that is what I found, a small amount of water at the very lowest point, i.e.; the lower front wheel cylinder(s) after 18 years. "DOT 4 will absorb moisture, keeping the moisture away from the line. BTW, we're talking about tiny amounts here" Again, I agree, but it must be flushed more often because it attracts moisture from the air, i.e.: it is hygroscopic by its nature, and will become saturated at some point depending on your humidity and climate, and the boiling point of the fluid is reduced. "My other issue with DOT 5 is the reported high failure rate of the hydraulic brake switch on the master cylinder. If I were to go to DOT 5, then I would set up a second switch on the brake pedal, just to be safe" Again, I agree, but my G does not have a hydraulic switch, it has a mechanical switch on the brake pedal arm. "BTW, I use Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Activity) brake fluid in my vintage cars, with very good results so far" I also use Castrol LMA, and recommend it. I use it in my '88 BMW 325i with ABS, and my MGB before I sold it Castrol LMA was not available in 1978, and DOT 5 was the best thing going back then. Having said that, I stick with DOT 5 in the G for several reasons, 1. I've used it for 30 years in the G with good results, why change? 2. DOT 5 will NOT melt paint like DOT 3 & 4 will, so if I spill a little during a brake bleed, no damage. 3. DOT 5 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 or 4, including Castrol LMA. When I go over the mountains to and from Reno, my brakes get HOT. I don't worry about brake fluid boil because the boiling point is higher and does not degrade like DOT 3 & 4 can. I know Castrol LMA is better in this regard, but the boiling point is still lower than DOT 5. "Most of us are guilty of not changing brake fluid often enough. I'm probably at the top of the list. :)" Me too, I've learned from experience the importance of it. "A stitch in time saves nine" Bob J From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ron Waters Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 10:58 AM To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] G brakes 'jerking' to right Hi Bob - I don't want to get away from the topic of the original post, but just a few thoughts here. You said that you found signs of moisture in your fluid. If you were using DOT 5, then that should not be possible as DOT 5 is non-hygroscopic. It doesn't absorb moisture. Any moisture that gets into the system would stay between the fluid and the brake line, possibly promoting corrosion of the line.I suspect that the corrosion that you found in your wheel cylinder is the non-absorbed moisture settling in one location. DOT 4 will absorb moisture, keeping the moisture away from the line. BTW, we're talking about tiny amounts here. My other issue with DOT 5 is the reported high failure rate of the hydraulic brake switch on the master cylinder. If I were to go to DOT 5, then I would set up a second switch on the brake pedal, just to be safe. BTW, I use Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Activity) brake fluid in my vintage cars, with very good results so far. Most of us are guilty of not changing brake fluid often enough. I'm probably at the top of the list. :) Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:rpjasin%40pacbell.net> > To: "'Brandt Jimerson'" <brandt300g@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:brandt300g%40yahoo.com> >; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 1:07 PM Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] G brakes 'jerking' to right > Brandt and all, <snip> > > As a side note on silicone fluid, when I rebuilt my brake system on my G > in > 1978, I put in all new brake components including wheel cylinders, hoses > and > new master cylinder. I flushed the old fluid out and went with DOT 5 > silicone fluid. Thinking I would not need to again flush the fluid > because > it was silicone, and wanting to perform a "test" I suppose, I went 18 > years, to 1996, before I began to experience the same failure, pulling to > one side. I pulled the drum and found leakage in the lower front wheel > cylinder, left side, disassembled it and found water had settled over time > in the lowest spot causing the corrosion. So in 1996 I rebuilt the system > as related above, and have bled the system twice since then, the first in > 2005, and just this last week end. In 2005 the fluid did show some signs > of > contamination and moisture, but this past weekend the old fluid showed > some > discoloration but no signs of moisture, that's why I say 5 years is a > pretty > good period for DOT 5 to be flushed and still maintain safety. > > > > Bob J > > 300G Convert owner since January 1978 > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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