1) A good simple trick for cleaning rusty very small 300 metal pieces can be putting them in a wire mesh container that they can be sandblasted in as you shake it around. The container can be the size/shape of a saucepan, and made out of any steel/stainless mesh that the sand/air will blast through, but not big enough mesh that the parts will fall through it. Two supermarket cheap plastic frame vegetable strainers that often use fine stainless can be a fastest simple option for such as these grill u clamps = put them in bottom one, place upside down twin one on top, sexcure or hold the two together as you blast and shake. An even simpler one is a used plastic 1 litre ice cream container - put/secure a piece of old metal/copper flywire over top, and blast away - the flywire wire break up eventually, and the solid plastic container does not let the blast throufgh as well as all wire holder, but it will work fine. 2) Auction final prices and 300 Insurance values.?! If it is a car you have personally restored, or paid to restore, if it say 100% totally lost in a fire, I believe you should be entitled to an exact amount it cost you, or would cost to do it again!!?? It is no point if another 300 sells for say like that earlier sold 300D for around $30k, if you cannot replavce your just restored 300D/C whatever, for under $70-90k??!! I think most US Insurance Cos should/could insure cars on that replacement cost basis if it not an everyday event that 300C/D/etcs sell for the near one off mid $20s auction result?? 3) Auctions where owners see bids run to just below reserves - no one likes it, but if the car is say the last genuine 427 AC Cobra, or the Daytona 300F - in other words near totally unique, 'cream of cream' collector cars, maybe those owners are not so out of line??!! Look at Art, where unique paintings sell for totally crazy prices mnore and more so?! And as one other has maybe so rightly said - most 300s are cars that need a 300 buyer, o/wise it like trying to sell a Chev to a Ford person, and vice versa, etc??! Christopher in Australia - we voted yesterday, and today have a dead heat with no clear winner for maybe weeks - first time for such an event since 1931 To: paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx CC: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:42:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 57 - 59 grill U nuts That sounds like a pretty good trick, Paul. Another I've seen for wire brushing them is to drill and tap various size holes in the ends of iron rods for bolts, or, for nuts, to put them on the end of a threaded rod. You booger the thread of the rod just a little to keep the nut from traveling further than you want it to. The thing I prefer about chemically removing the rust instead of blasting is that you end up with a smoother cleaner surface ready for paint. And your threads get cleaned out without damage. Keith Boonstra - On 8/20/2010 6:35 PM, paul wrote: > On 8/19/2010 2:09 PM, Keith Boonstra wrote: > >> And here's the rest of the story -- Rusty parts like my grill U-nuts >> that are too small or intricate to sandblast can be a real PIA, but this >> worked so slick I gotta tell you how I did it. > > snip > >> Keith Boonstra > > ages ago when faced with a pile of nuts and bolts to clean/blast > I got hold of a 4"x18" 1/4" thick metal plate and had 5 each of 5 > sizes of NC and NF nuts welded to one side, and on the other side I > had 5 each of 5 sizes of NC and NF short bolts welded to this plate. > > (NC = National course, NF = National Fine) > > for bolts, screw your assortment into the nuts on the plate until full > or you're out of ones to clean and blast away, ditto on the other > side, just thread the various nuts onto the bolt threads sticking up > from the plate and Ta-Da clean stuff. with out having to blast fingers > or toes. The plates heavy enough to stay in place as you work on your > fasteners. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/