Re: [Chrysler300] oil [Synthetic Oil]

[moparpjf@xxxxxxx]

Are these oils readily available from your local NAPA or Pep Boys  store, 
or must they be found elsewhere?  
 
Pete Fitch
 
 
In a message dated 11/15/2010 2:05:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

On  11/15/2010 12:10 PM, Tom Chvapil wrote:

> OK, hopefully this will  help a bit.
> I just had my 392 completely rebuilt, with a new  performance Isky cam, 
and both the machine shop, as well as the Isky  manufacturer gave the 
following instructions for both initial break in, as  well as subsequent oil 
changes:

> " Isky recommends the use of only  the following motor oils for maximum 
cam lobe and lifter protection BEFORE and  AFTER the break-in period because 
they are the only conventional mineral based  oils with generous levels of 
the zinc/phosphorus additive package:

>  * Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 (The very best of all in our  opinion.....)

> * Pennzoil 'GTP' Racing oil (Excellent-Do not  confuse with regular grade 
Pennzoil!)

> * Valvoline Racing Oil  (Excellent-Do not confuse with regular grade 
Valvoline or Valvoline  VR-1)

> **We believe the Brad-Penn product (FORMERLY known as  Kendall GT-1) to 
be superior to all other oils.....**

> If you DO  NOT USE one of the above oil, the next best approach is to 
supplement other  common mineral based oils with Engine Oil Supplement  from 
any GM  dealership (part #1052367, 16 oz.)
> My machine shop indicated that they  prefer ZDDP.......

> **Special note regarding Synthetic  Oils**

> Isky doesn't recommend the use of synthetic oils with any  flat-tappet 
cams, especially during break-in. If you must use synthetic oil,  AFTER break 
in period, there are only 2 brands we feel comfortable  recommending. Amzoil 
(Red) Racing Oil and Joe Gibbs Performance Racing  Oil."
> Other synthetics, especially those with very low viscosity index  Numbers 
(i.e. 0w-15, 5w-20, etc) have very low film strength and are not  designed, 
nor should they be used in any flat-tappet cam  installation.

> I have retyped this info from the instruction packet  I was given by my 
machine shop and Iskycams.

> Makes sense to me,  especially since my shop has no stake in endorsing 
any of the above mentioned  products.

> Tom Chvapil

Modern metallurgy, machining  practices, and modern automotive chemistry 
go hand in hand with MANY  considerations and collaborations that are 
geared for To-days mass  produced transportation products.

We however are mainly concerned with  Older metallurgy and machining 
practices, which today are outmoded and by  and large IGNORED by the 
mainstream automotive chemistry industry.
The  above suggestions certainly sound and read as very reasonable to me 
at  this time!!

Modern Automotive chemistry also has changed the coolant  products 
currently being produced.  I had to be very carefull about  the type of 
anti-freeze product I was replacing (about every year) in my  'hot-rod' 
truck. I foolishly used the current formula generic product for  its 
first change about 6 years ago, this lead to solder bloom problems  
affecting my original copper/brass radiator until I replaced the old  
tech radiator for a new tech product.

Recapping things just a  little,  modern fuels, oils, brake fluids, and 
other assorted liquid  products by and large being sold today for todays 
cars and truck are  Different then what was the norm 50-60 years ago.
Allowances and  considerations for these changes should be planed for and 
old practices  adapted to the use of modern automotive chemistry products.

-- 
Paul  Holmgren
Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage  1
Hoosier Corps  L#6


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