Tony Those infrared thermometers at Harbor Freight are now $39.99 to $59.99. George Sent from my iPhone 4 On Jul 28, 2011, at 7:49 PM, Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Hi To All, > > Leaded High Octane Fuel is no longer readily available. > > {Before you delete this message, here is the bottom line: use colder spark > plugs with today's bad gas} > > Gone are the days of the 99 octane or better gas. > > Newer unleaded fuels burns hotter. Add ethanol and the fuels burn even > hotter. > > What do we do with our high compression, high performance engines? They > burned hot with the gas they were designed to run on. They burn even hotter > with today's pump gas. > > Short of using racing gas and octane additives, we use 93 octane, if we can > get it. And we retard the spark. This eliminates detonation, associated with > lower octane, that is destructive to the engine internal parts. > > But when we retard the spark to avoid pre-ignition, we further increase the > heat in the engine especially in the exhaust manifolds. The retarded timing > will allow the majority of the heat (Flame) to blow out of the exhaust > instead of keeping it in the cylinder to produce power. > > Too hot of a heat range of the plugs, usually recommended for our engines, > indirectly leads to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase > engine temperature. We then have to retard the spark even further creating > more heat in the exhaust manifolds. > > Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases and the > side walls of the cylinders. > > Ever wonder why we repeatedly have exhaust manifold leaks or we have boiling > gas in the bottom of our exhaust heated crossram carbs on really hot days? > > We are generally limited in the availability and selection of spark plugs. > This means that we are using plugs with heat ranges that were good for > 1960's gas not today's gas. > > Not sure how well this subject has been covered in the past, but my race > mechanic shared some of the work around techniques that the NASCAR people > are using to deal with the elimination of leaded fuels in recent years. > > In hotter heat range plugs, the tips remain hotter between firings and start > acting as glow plugs. The cylinder mixture will tend to prematurely ignite. > > The use of newer spark plugs with colder heat ranges is a good option to > help relieve low octane detonation. These plugs fire with the same intensity > but have more insulation. This dissipates the heat from the tips quicker > thus eliminating pre-ignition. > > A heat range refers to how much heat a spark plug is capable of removing > from the combustion chamber. > > NASCAR is so big, spark plug manufacturers listen to them and are > manufacturing colder heat ranges. > > The more internal modifications that are done to make our engines more > powerful, the more heat the engines generate. > > Domestic plug manufacturers use designations where the higher numbers are > hotter heat ranges and the lower numbers are cooler. > > NGK numbers are the opposite. 2 is the hottest and 12 is coldest heat range. > > The NGK R5670-6 V-Power Plugs (NGK Stock #2746) for Big Block 413-426-440 > (Raised Deck) with iron heads or Standard NGK Plugs XR5 (#3339) are close to > the heat range of an Autolite 85 which is the replacement plug for the > original A32 for wedge crossram engines. There are no heat range choices for > the Standard NGK XR5 plugs. The R5670 V-Power series of racing plugs do have > colder ranges however. > > The rule of thumb is to use the coldest heat range plug that you can run > without fouling. NGK V-Power plugs are known for not Fouling readily > especially with the projected tips on the R5670s. Reference the following > quotes below about NGK V-Power plugs: > > "These NGK V-Power spark plugs offer economical performance for nearly any > automotive application, and are the only plugs with NGK's V-Groove > technology. They enhance ignitability, lower the voltage requirement of > ignition systems, and have strong anti-fouling characteristics, while > improving fuel mileage and acceleration performance. The V-Power plugs also > are highly durable against electrical and chemical wear, making them a > long-life replacement plug. Because of the V-Groove, the spark occurs at the > edge of the center electrode. So heat is not absorbed by the electrode > itself. This allows the flame kernel to expand quickly and efficiently for a > complete burn and great performance." strokerengine.com > > "NGK's V-grooved center electrode moves the spark to the outer edge of the > electrode for improved ignitability in all combustion chamber conditions. > This configuration is especially helpful for throttle responsiveness, > quicker corner exits, and more power on the bottom end in a drag race > engine. The high-purity alumina silicates used in the insulators of NGK > Spark Plugs helps keep the spark plug tip warm enough to burn off deposits > at low-speed, yet still be able to transfer enough heat during high-speed > operation to prevent detonation and pre-ignition.: NGK > > "I have two cars with 440 engines and one car with a 360. Both 440 engines > were rebuilt and placed into service with Champion plugs in them. Both > engines fouled atleast one plug before they even had a hundred miles on > them. At the advice of a friend that owns a parts store, I went to NGK > V-Power plugs. No more fouled plugs. And my 360 that I rebuilt 6000 miles > ago also has the NGK V-Power plugs and hasn't fouled any." Mopar Enthusiast > > Check your exhaust manifold temperature before with your existing plugs once > the engine is at operating temperature after a good run. You may want to > check and record other areas of the engine as well as take note of the > temperature gauge. > > Harbor Freight sells a laser heat gun for about $20. > > A good plug to consider starting with is one that is 2 heat ranges colder > than you are running now. NGK R5670-8 (#3354) V-Power plugs should do it. > About $20 for 8. They come in packs of 4. Then advance the timing. > > If your engine has been rebuilt with lower compression, consider trying the > NGK R5670-7 (#2891) (one heat range cooler) to make up for the lower octane > unleaded fuel. Then advance the timing. > > If you only can get fuel that is lower than 93 octane, add one more heat > range cooler than recommended above. > > After you have installed your cooler plugs and advanced the timing > appropriately, check the exhaust manifold temperature in the same spot, as > well as your other reference points, once the engine is at operating > temperature after a good run. > > The temperatures should be less and the drivability of your car should be > better. > > My engine was built with larger cubic inches. I went to a NGK R5670-9 > (#3913). > > Do you expect a different result by doing the same thing over and over > again? > > Been there done that! > > Did something different this time. It worked. > > Tony Rinaldi > 300-F Conv't > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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