RE: [Chrysler300] Can't Get Good Gas Anymore?

["John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi George and Tony,

Re: 1957 300C

Fuel economy at 4,000 feet could be improved by using the Chryslers Altitude Package which contains one size leaner metering rods Cater No. 75-1180 as per a letter I have from E.P. Carr, Car Engineering, Chrysler Corporation. Our 300C has these rods since 1958. I have 10 1/2 compression and no problems.

John Chesnutt, Portland, OR

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of George McKovich
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 6:30 AM
To: Tony Rinaldi
Cc: Chrysler 300 Club
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Can't Get Good Gas Anymore?

Tony
This is a very interesting analysis. Do you have anything to add when one considers altitude? I live and much of my driving is at or about 4,000 feet elevation.

Thanks
George

Sent from my iPhone 4


On Jul 28, 2011, at 7:49 PM, Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi To All,
> 
> Leaded High Octane Fuel is no longer readily available.
> 
> {Before you delete this message, here is the bottom line: use colder spark	Hi George,
> plugs with today's bad gas}
> 
> Gone are the days of the 99 octane or better gas.
> 
> Newer unleaded fuels burns hotter. Add ethanol and the fuels burn even
> hotter. 
> 
> What do we do with our high compression, high performance engines? They
> burned hot with the gas they were designed to run on. They burn even hotter
> with today's pump gas.
> 
> Short of using racing gas and octane additives, we use 93 octane, if we can
> get it. And we retard the spark. This eliminates detonation, associated with
> lower octane, that is destructive to the engine internal parts.
> 
> But when we retard the spark to avoid pre-ignition, we further increase the
> heat in the engine especially in the exhaust manifolds. The retarded timing
> will allow the majority of the heat (Flame) to blow out of the exhaust
> instead of keeping it in the cylinder to produce power.
> 
> Too hot of a heat range of the plugs, usually recommended for our engines,
> indirectly leads to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase
> engine temperature. We then have to retard the spark even further creating
> more heat in the exhaust manifolds.
> 
> Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases and the
> side walls of the cylinders.
> 
> Ever wonder why we repeatedly have exhaust manifold leaks or we have boiling
> gas in the bottom of our exhaust heated crossram carbs on really hot days?
> 
> We are generally limited in the availability and selection of spark plugs.
> This means that we are using plugs with heat ranges that were good for
> 1960's gas not today's gas.
> 
> Not sure how well this subject has been covered in the past, but my race
> mechanic shared some of the work around techniques that the NASCAR people
> are using to deal with the elimination of leaded fuels in recent years.
> 
> In hotter heat range plugs, the tips remain hotter between firings and start
> acting as glow plugs. The cylinder mixture will tend to prematurely ignite.
> 
> The use of newer spark plugs with colder heat ranges is a good option to
> help relieve low octane detonation. These plugs fire with the same intensity
> but have more insulation. This dissipates the heat from the tips quicker
> thus eliminating pre-ignition.
> 
> A heat range refers to how much heat a spark plug is capable of removing
> from the combustion chamber.
> 
> NASCAR is so big, spark plug manufacturers listen to them and are
> manufacturing colder heat ranges.
> 
> The more internal modifications that are done to make our engines more
> powerful, the more heat the engines generate.
> 
> Domestic plug manufacturers use designations where the higher numbers are
> hotter heat ranges and the lower numbers are cooler.
> 
> NGK numbers are the opposite. 2 is the hottest and 12 is coldest heat range.
> 
> The NGK R5670-6 V-Power Plugs (NGK Stock #2746) for Big Block 413-426-440
> (Raised Deck) with iron heads or Standard NGK Plugs XR5 (#3339) are close to
> the heat range of an Autolite 85 which is the replacement plug for the
> original A32 for wedge crossram engines. There are no heat range choices for
> the Standard NGK XR5 plugs. The R5670 V-Power series of racing plugs do have
> colder ranges however.
> 
> The rule of thumb is to use the coldest heat range plug that you can run
> without fouling. NGK V-Power plugs are known for not Fouling readily
> especially with the projected tips on the R5670s. Reference the following
> quotes below about NGK V-Power plugs:
> 
> "These NGK V-Power spark plugs offer economical performance for nearly any
> automotive application, and are the only plugs with NGK's V-Groove
> technology. They enhance ignitability, lower the voltage requirement of
> ignition systems, and have strong anti-fouling characteristics, while
> improving fuel mileage and acceleration performance. The V-Power plugs also
> are highly durable against electrical and chemical wear, making them a
> long-life replacement plug. Because of the V-Groove, the spark occurs at the
> edge of the center electrode. So heat is not absorbed by the electrode
> itself. This allows the flame kernel to expand quickly and efficiently for a
> complete burn and great performance." strokerengine.com
> 
> "NGK's V-grooved center electrode moves the spark to the outer edge of the
> electrode for improved ignitability in all combustion chamber conditions.
> This configuration is especially helpful for throttle responsiveness,
> quicker corner exits, and more power on the bottom end in a drag race
> engine. The high-purity alumina silicates used in the insulators of NGK
> Spark Plugs helps keep the spark plug tip warm enough to burn off deposits
> at low-speed, yet still be able to transfer enough heat during high-speed
> operation to prevent detonation and pre-ignition.: NGK
> 
> "I have two cars with 440 engines and one car with a 360. Both 440 engines
> were rebuilt and placed into service with Champion plugs in them. Both
> engines fouled atleast one plug before they even had a hundred miles on
> them. At the advice of a friend that owns a parts store, I went to NGK
> V-Power plugs. No more fouled plugs. And my 360 that I rebuilt 6000 miles
> ago also has the NGK V-Power plugs and hasn't fouled any." Mopar Enthusiast
> 
> Check your exhaust manifold temperature before with your existing plugs once
> the engine is at operating temperature after a good run. You may want to
> check and record other areas of the engine as well as take note of the
> temperature gauge.
> 
> Harbor Freight sells a laser heat gun for about $20.
> 
> A good plug to consider starting with is one that is 2 heat ranges colder
> than you are running now. NGK R5670-8 (#3354) V-Power plugs should do it.
> About $20 for 8. They come in packs of 4. Then advance the timing.
> 
> If your engine has been rebuilt with lower compression, consider trying the
> NGK R5670-7 (#2891) (one heat range cooler) to make up for the lower octane
> unleaded fuel. Then advance the timing.
> 
> If you only can get fuel that is lower than 93 octane, add one more heat
> range cooler than recommended above.
> 
> After you have installed your cooler plugs and advanced the timing
> appropriately, check the exhaust manifold temperature in the same spot, as
> well as your other reference points, once the engine is at operating
> temperature after a good run.
> 
> The temperatures should be less and the drivability of your car should be
> better.
> 
> My engine was built with larger cubic inches. I went to a NGK R5670-9
> (#3913). 
> 
> Do you expect a different result by doing the same thing over and over
> again?
> 
> Been there done that!
> 
> Did something different this time. It worked.
> 
> Tony Rinaldi
> 300-F Conv't
> 
> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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