E10 Gasoline and Antique and Classic Cars >From Naples & Marco Island AACA; published in Hemmings Also Note: For a photo of phase separation in ethanol blended gasoline see: http://fuelschool.blogspot.com/2009/02/phase-separation-in-ethanol-blended.h tml Although apparently not one of the states required to use reformulated fuel, E10 (gasoline with at least 10% Ethanol as a component) is a fact in Florida. What follows tries to ignore any aspect of this fuel¹s existence dealing with environmental, cost, source, fuel economy, etc concerns and deal only with the effect Ethanol as 10% of gas pump gasoline will have on vehicles in high humidity and temperature areas such as Florida. The considerations are for cars and light trucks: 25 years or older Sitting idle 60 days or more at a time in SW Florida Subject to Gulf Coast swings in temperature and humidity. Fuel System Components not upgraded to be alcohol resistant Fuel tanks are vented This report is a compilation of information from various knowledgeable sources, shaped to fit the above parameters. The authors stated to be knowledgeable in the automotive industry, and believe the information shown is valid, but most assuredly do not take any responsibility for any mishaps. Some Background: An oversimplification of the situation is that environmental goals have driven numerous auto fuel changes since the late 1980¹s while the need has remained to provide fuels that perform to standards. The standards do not designate the components of the fuel, only what it must do, as, meet environmental standards and provide fuel at appropriate octane levels. E10 is an oxygenated fuel that is the current preferred direction to reach such goals. The oil companies contacted who would comment on the subject all said essentially the same thing. E10 has been in use for many years with no problems, except that owners of cars built prior to 1980 may experience tribulations that newer cars will not be concerned with (our words, not theirs.) and may require modification (their words). Going Forward: The Kettering Institute has been commissioned by Hagerty Insurance to study the effect of ethanol on classic automobiles. Hagerty issued a generic article in a journal that took many of the sources used here. An early comment from Kettering is incorporated in some to the following. Post 1980 Automobiles: These vehicles should experience no negative effect from E10 in their original systems. Owners need to be aware that the composition of after-market components (Gaskets, Hoses, etc) need be ascertained to be other than rubber or other compounds that E10 will deteriorate. If so, the resulting sludge may well clog fuel system components. Must be elastomer as Neoprene, etc. Pre-1980 Vehicles are the subject of the balance of this report. It would appear that owners Antique and Classic cars and light trucks should be aware as to the effect of E10 on the OEM fuel systems, and engines of their vehicles. Areas of Concern appear to be: Destruction of Parts (Risks): A 1996 summary suggested that components provided by after markets since the early 80¹s are compatible to today¹s fuel formulations, though 1996 gasoline was stated to be more aggressive than those of the ?60s and 70s and extended storage without proper treatment can increase elastomer deterioration, better to replace older flexible tubing. Hoses - Compositions (Rubber) prior to use of elastomer. Hoses that are susceptible to alcohol damage can become brittle or soft and, over time, deteriorate. Piping Metal - Aluminum, steel or other metals. Alcohol [E10(?) ] is considered corrosive to aluminum and possibly alloys. Nothing was found that dealt with constant use (flow through) for steel, copper, etc. Diaphragms, Gaskets, Washers... in fuel pumps, carburetors, etc. are at serious risk if the flexible components are of Pre-1980 composite material. ?Opening up¹ the part in use every 6 months to examine these components was recommended by one source. Body Parts Fuel Pumps, Carburetors, Filters... metal interiors may well be subject to etching or worse, while the effect on plastic or other float components is unclear, and these had best be monitored. Cleaning Effect of Ethanol Carburetors, Fuel Pumps... jets, floats, pumps, interiors will become very clean. This corrosive effect may well dislodge gum and varnish that will effect actual performance. Fuel holding areas (carb bowls, fuel pumps..) will be particularly concerned and if the car is not used long enough for any settling, the odds are good that performance will suffer and maintenance be required. Injector Pumps fuel holding areas, injectors,... are generally not of material that is prone to alcohol degradation, but sludge coming into the pump from the inbound system may cause problems at the injectors. Fuel Tanks sludge movement as well as corrosion may/will effect gas tanks. This is seen to be a multi-faceted attack on old residue, varnish, ... which, in the process of cleaning the tank, will clog fuel screens (and may well eat them away). Another aspect seen is that as ethanol is miscible with, and attracts, water, having it in contact with steel fuel tanks or fuel lines is not a good idea as in exposing the bare surface of mild steel tanks allowing rust to form. A contrary view is that given today¹s ASTM specifications for fuel, corrosion should not be a concern. Filters porosity may well be significantly reduced... as the filter clogs vehicle performance will degrade. Need is to check filters more often than with post-1980 cars (at least until the system has become E10 friendly). Water Absorption Fuel Tank Collecting Water while stored and idle (As from ?sweating¹): There is the belief that all metal tanks, unless kept at constant temperature, will collect water. Constant is not a Florida word for its temperature. However, EPA states that outside Water Entry is the most likely cause of water in fuel. An EPA comment in response to our questioning negative phase separation results from great swings in temperature, in cars sitting for months at a time (in our Florida heat) with vented, partially full, fuel tanks was: ³I¹m not aware of water absorption from the atmosphere being a big issue, but I suppose it could happen if the tank is open to the air for long periods during summer and the air is very humid. I can¹t imagine the rate of absorption being very high... In a worst case scenario, if gasoline absorbed as much water from the atmosphere as it can hold during the summer, and then the vehicle remained in place (no refueling, no driving) until winter, then I suppose you could get some water phase separation. But, I can¹t comment on how likely such a scenario would be. ³ Water Phase Separation: Ethanol has a great affinity for water and will attract moisture from the atmosphere thru vents. The water molecules from an electro- chemical bond with the ethanol that is stronger than the fuels original bond with ethanol. Water is heavier than gasoline so the water/ethanol molecule is dragged to the bottom of the tank and separates from the more buoyant fuel molecules. The EPA Study from whose author the above quote was extracted does not believe Phase Separation is a viable threat. He does not totally discount it. Combustion degradation as a result of Water Phase Separation may be a stretch of the imagination but appears possible. If the fuel fed to the engine is ³watered down² most assuredly poor performance will result and ethanol is hydrophilic and will absorb water from the air. Off Season Storage: A gallon of gasoline/ethanol blend containing 10% ethanol can suspend nearly 4 teaspoons of water per gallon. Whether a Pre-1980¹s car has access to that much atmosphere in a form to encourage such absorption is a contentious question. Since water increases corrosion, always take precautions to eliminate any introduction of moisture into the fuel system. The tank should be kept full during storage to minimize condensation on the tank walls (alternate is, run dry). Quoting: Gasoline should not be stored for long periods of time, especially during seasonal changes that usually have large temperature changes associated with them. Care should be taken not to allow water into the fuel system, while filling fuel tanks or in the form of rain or splash, for example. Aside from any ethanol ³problem² gasoline stored for extended periods will "oxidize" resulting in the formation of gums which contribute to fuel system and engine deposits. Gasoline is typically stable for a period of at least 90 days but may be 30 days old when you purchase it. Therefore if you are storing your vehicle for a period in excess of 60 days you should add a fuel stabilizer. Those stabilizers are non-alcoholic "anti-oxidants" that extend the storage life of gasoline. Examples include Gold Eagles "STA-BiL" which states it deals with ethanol, NAPA's "Store It-Start It", Advance¹s StarTron. . Summary of Solution Approaches: Verify Fuel Tank Integrity Change out flexible fuel lines to Post-1980 product Change Fuel Filters More Frequently than in the Past until Obviously not needed. Not mentioned above, but: Use best grades of gasoline available. Of possible interest in this respect is that Shell Premium (a Tier 1 Gasoline) now contains Nitrogen as a sludge fighter. Use Fuel Stabilizers Stabil, other brands of non alcoholic mixers Fill Tanks when storage beyond 30 days (or run them dry) Seal Tanks to reduce moisture generation An adage from a 1930¹s Sabatini Novel is: Forewarned is Forearmed. Appropriate here! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! 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