I will add - REAL terminals on battery cables - not the replacement ones you clamp on with screws - you can generally get NAPA or any good tractor / diesel shop or welding shop to put real ends on properly. On 12/20/2011 6:26 PM, Edward Mills Antique Tractors wrote: > Second that - clean terminals, dieletric grease, heavy (0 gage) cables > from battery and to starter, good generator and battery, good fuel & > ignition - and all my 6 volt tractors start fine. If you have ignition > or fuel issues, 12v does not start either. > > On 12/20/2011 6:08 PM, Ray Jones wrote: >> >> I have 3 Ford 8-N's (non-running, wanna project?) and a 2-N. I used >> the 2-N a lot around the place box blading and just riding for fun. >> I always had to jump start it, as the 6 volt just didn't do it. I had >> 8 volts for a while and that helped. >> Finally Rene Kroger told me he had very large tractors starting in >> the worst of winter with 6 volts so we looked further. >> After cleaning every connection, including the starter mounting face, >> it starts up just fine with 6 volts. >> Bigger cables will help, but clean terminals is the answer. >> Ray >> >> On Dec 20, 2011, at 4:41 PM, jlsavard@xxxxxxx >> <mailto:jlsavard%40aol.com> wrote: >> >> I have an old Ford Tractor that is 6 volt. The battery needed replacing >> recently, and having heard about 8 volt batteries, I bought one. I >> thought >> that it was a simple drop-in replacement. >> >> Only after the purchase did I find that to make the 8 volt work, I'd >> need >> to readjust the voltage regulator to make 8 volts, or the system >> wouldn't >> function properly. At one point, my regulator was buzzing like a >> doorbell >> from the uneven voltage. Voltmeters and other equipment are needed to >> reset >> the points. I decided that it just wasn't worth the trouble, and went >> back >> to 6 volts. Happily, the dealer exchanged batteries for me, no cost. >> >> When the 6 volt system fails next time, I'll convert to a 12 volt >> conversion, using a single wire alternator from GM. Those conversion >> kits (For a >> tractor) cost around $150 or so. Of course, I'll still have to >> convert the >> lighting, and that is lots harder on a car. >> >> Joe Savard >> Lake Orion, Michigan >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/